Anyone remove the lower door speaker grill?

[FreePenguin]

What ohms are yours? They make a direct 4ohm replacement, but I bought an open box set of 2ohm component speakers

6.5 2ohms + tweeters, I only used the 6.5 and didn’t install the crossover as I couldn’t figure out where the hell to mount them, anyway

I like em. But 9 speaker cars are 4ohm 6.5’s in door and shelves

And 12 speaker premiums are 2ohm 6.5 in doors and 2ohm rear shelves too.

2ohm there wasn’t many options, so yeah. Sounds much better than original speakers. No complaints

Those are what the 15-17 shaker system ohms anyway
I can’t speak for b&o but I doubt it changed

The rest across board is
Tweeters are 8 ohms, 3.5’s are 2ohms, I don’t remember dash speaker ohms

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[Rash]

Just ordered the 2 ohm Powerbass. I can’t get the JBL’s to stop rattling since they contact the grill. Shame, because they sound good. Hopefully Powerbass will sound just as good. Shout out to Crutchfield for the customer service - they have returned everything I’ve tried no questions asked, even the first pair of Infinity coaxials on which I clipped the tweeter wires. Customer service like that is very rare these days. They’ve got my business going forward.

 

[StangTime]

Just ordered the 2 ohm Powerbass. I can’t get the JBL’s to stop rattling since they contact the grill. Shame, because they sound good. Hopefully Powerbass will sound just as good. Shout out to Crutchfield for the customer service - they have returned everything I’ve tried no questions asked, even the first pair of Infinity coaxials on which I clipped the tweeter wires. Customer service like that is very rare these days. They’ve got my business going forward.

Sorry things didn't work out with the JBL's. Glad to hear you didn't resort to cutting the door panel.

 

[Rash]

Sorry things didn't work out with the JBL's. Glad to hear you didn't resort to cutting the door panel.

Thanks. Yeah, I could try those foam surround things, but I figure it’s just easier to pop something in there that’s 2 ohm that matches the factory and I don’t have to worry about it touching the grill. It sucks that the tweeters that come with that component system or 3 ohm and the factory are 8 ohm - won’t be using them. Wish I could find a pair of aftermarket tweeters that match the factory impedance. The factories lack clarity.

 

[FreePenguin]

I use the foam on the powerbass's

they are 20 bucks, but trust me, worth it. there's a circle pad you stick on the inside of door behind the magnet, then a ring that goes on backside of the magnet/around the magnet, and the one you saw in my photo, leave it nice and fat, so it mates up against the door panel.

post up your review after, I also use ONLY Crutchfield, they price match competitors, and have no issues. I recently bough this box, 600 for open box.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693317/JL-Audio-CS212LG-TW1.html

thing is the best sounding / strongest bass ive ever heard, I tossed it in my friends little Honda Civic SI. but man, its boss. the first box came with a crack in it from shipping, no questions asked, overnighted me a brand new box to avoid weekend shipping/getting it on a Monday vs the Friday.

point is, Crutchfield rocks, been with them for like 12 years now I think.

 

[StangTime]

Thanks. Yeah, I could try those foam surround things, but I figure it’s just easier to pop something in there that’s 2 ohm that matches the factory and I don’t have to worry about it touching the grill. It sucks that the tweeters that come with that component system or 3 ohm and the factory are 8 ohm - won’t be using them. Wish I could find a pair of aftermarket tweeters that match the factory impedance. The factories lack clarity.

Impedance isn't everything and more to do with efficiency and I don't think anybody knows what the factory efficiency spec is for the tweeters. No where near 93db like the JBL tweeter. Whatever you choose, it's always good to make sure the crossover has an attenuation switch.

 

[Rash]

Regarding the foam, would this work just as well?

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fN0fE...Uu3LxEEYV4M4zFTrnAHDQX1D2rHJfn_4aAsmoEALw_wcB

 

[None2Slow]

I have those same JBLs in the doors of my 2016. I have no problems with them touching the grills and they don't rattle. I don't remember mounting them on the plastic ring, but maybe I did. Its been over a year ago. Maybe shave the plastic ring that its mounted to?

 

[StangTime]

Regarding the foam, would this work just as well?

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-fN0fE...Uu3LxEEYV4M4zFTrnAHDQX1D2rHJfn_4aAsmoEALw_wcB

If you use that as is, you will kill your bass response as the driver no longer has an effective volume. If you are worried about water dripping then cut the bottom half of the cup completely off.

 

[Rash]

I have those same JBLs in the doors of my 2016. I have no problems with them touching the grills and they don't rattle. I don't remember mounting them on the plastic ring, but maybe I did. Its been over a year ago. Maybe shave the plastic ring that its mounted to?

I'm gonna take another look at it. It may be that the attachment points for the door grill are what's rattling, not the actual grill. One thing that I've noticed is that, when the stereo occupancy mode is in "all" (or whatever it's called) there is no rattling at all. But when in "driver" mode, that's when rattle occurs. I assume that's because there is higher output on driver side in driver mode. Unfortunately, I prefer driver mode, so I gotta solve the issues so that I can still use that mode. To me the "all" mode sounds terrible.

 

[PKs]

Impedance isn't everything and more to do with efficiency and I don't think anybody knows what the factory efficiency spec is for the tweeters. No where near 93db like the JBL tweeter. Whatever you choose, it's always good to make sure the crossover has an attenuation switch.

I agree with your impedance comment. I have the 12 speaker on my 18 and after referencing Crutchfield's speaker lookup I bought a pair of 4 ohm Power Bass coaxials from Ebay England to replace my rears. Upon install I found that the oem speakers were 2 ohm. I was initially annoyed thinking that I had wasted my money but they were just as loud as the 2 ohm if not louder. I went on to have a 4 ohm Morel Maximo Ultra Mk11 component setup replace the 2 ohm factory mid and woofer in the doors and tweeter in the A pillar. Once again there was no loss in volume and it all sounds so much better.
So it seems it is all in the efficiency.

 

[Rash]

I agree with your impedance comment. I have the 12 speaker on my 18 and after referencing Crutchfield's speaker lookup I bought a pair of 4 ohm Power Bass coaxials from Ebay England to replace my rears. Upon install I found that the oem speakers were 2 ohm. I was initially annoyed thinking that I had wasted my money but they were just as loud as the 2 ohm if not louder. I went on to have a 4 ohm Morel Maximo Ultra Mk11 component setup replace the 2 ohm factory mid and woofer in the doors and tweeter in the A pillar. Once again there was no loss in volume and it all sounds so much better.
So it seems it is all in the efficiency.

That may be true for the 6.5 door speakers, but I’ve tried two tweeters that were 4 ohm and they were way too harsh compared to the 8 ohm factory tweets.

 

[FreePenguin]

Leave tweeters stock, just replace the 6.5’s

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