Aggressive Alignment Settings with Stock GT Suspension??

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by Scooter MGee, Mar 28, 2020.

  1. Scooter MGee

    Scooter MGee Well-Known Member

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    Monday I am taking the car to a alignment specialist I use to get stuff right the 1st time. Long story short......The Ford store told me "all settings are in the green.....nothing to adjust" yet when I hold the steering wheel level it goes to the left. Anywho, the shop I am taking it to builds and sets up race cars as part of his services.

    Here is my question.....is the stock base GT suspension adjustable for better cornering/turn in? Anyone have known good alignment settings that I could share with the shop owner?
     
  2. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    All you can adjust in the front is toe. Camber can't adjust unless you slot the struts or use camber bolt or camber plates. The rear on the other hand is fully adjustable.
    How aggressive would you like to go?
     
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  3. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    For an "aggressive street" setting I'd recommend:
    (Degrees)
    -2 front camber
    0 front toe
    -1.5 rear camber
    0.12 rear toe (per side) - 0.24 total
    Thrust angle 0.00
     
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  4. OP
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    Scooter MGee

    Scooter MGee Well-Known Member

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    That pretty much answers the question, thank you. I did not want to go too aggressive. Just thought there was maybe some adjustment available in the OE set up the tweak a bit for better turn in and such. I get a set of camber bolts and have those on hand for the next time.
     
  5. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    You could even do with a little less camber than I mentioned and still have a good street alignment. I would do at least -1.5 up front.
     
  6. OP
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    Scooter MGee

    Scooter MGee Well-Known Member

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    You state the front has zero adjustment for camber without the bolt kit. Is this correct?
     
  7. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that's correct. You can:
    1. Slot the struts
    2. Use camber aka crash bolts
    3. Camber plates

    Camber plates would be a good investment honestly. Then in the future you can dial it in perfectly as you see fit. It's also a more secure and better way of adjusting than using bolts.
     
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  8. NightmareMoon

    NightmareMoon Well-Known Member

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    ^ this..

    All you can do is set the front toe (zero front toe is the factory spec, and a good place to be). Don't overlook the value of getting the right amount of rear toe-in, it does help the car behave predictably in corners and when spinning tires in a straight line.
     
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  9. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Without additional parts, only the front and rear toe and rear camber are adjustable. That said, you can end up with a pretty piss-poor alignment and be "in the green". I've seen too many. If your shop can't hit these, find another place.

    Front toe: 0.00-0.05 deg per side, 0.00 steer ahead
    Rear toe: 0.10-0.12 deg per side, 0.00 thrust angle
    Rear camber: -1.3-1.5 per side, cross camber 0.00-0.01 (i.e. same both sides).
     
  10. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    I read somewhere that Front Toe: -0.3 Rear Toe: 0.3 is better for turning the car in corners I know that the front is not in the green though.

    Also my front camber is -1.4 in the left and 0.4 in the right so there must be somewhere to align that ?
     
  11. OP
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    Scooter MGee

    Scooter MGee Well-Known Member

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    Alignment done. He did aggressive street settings by slotting the struts. It ended up as follows:

    Front Camber: -1.6
    Front Toe: 0.0
    Steer ahead: 0.0

    Rear camber: -1.6
    Rear Toe: .12 / .24 total
    Thrust: 0.0

    Car turns in much better and feels better planted in corners.
     
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  12. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    A discrepancy of that size on front camber (and no plates or crash bolts) either means you have a easily noticeably different ride height L and R, or the more realistic option which is the rack isn't set/calibrated.

    Yes, front toe out (negative) does increase turn in response, but at the expense of a bit of mid corner and exit grip. It also makes the car more twitchy to drive and increases sensitivity to tramlining. Generally, very close to zero toe is what the vast majority will want.
     
  13. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    I think the discrepancy is following the curb impact that I have. How I can check the rack calibration ?
     
  14. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Yes, that could certainly do it. Can you see that difference looking at the car?
     
  15. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    I can see that my right wheel don't have same camber as the left yes but no big problems. I actually plan to do alignment and try to bet all 4 wheels to -1.25 if possible but will probably need to look more into the steering rack calibration or possible problems.
     
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