Aftermarket System - still need to flatten factory EQ?

[Tyler2386]

Perfect. Thank you.

Would you consider the Twk the best option, or is there another preferred route?

Relatedly, what settings should I be using for the amp pro?

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[Cathul]

Perfect. Thank you.

Would you consider the Twk the best option, or is there another preferred route?

Tbh... i would take whatever your installer is familiar with (beside the DSR1).
If it's a JL TwK88 what he is usually doing, then take that, if it's a Mosconi, take the Mosconi and so on. If you want to do it yourself, download all the software of the different DSPs and tinker with it in Demo mode to get you an idea of their respective workflows and if you can live with the way the different DSPs are set up.

That being said i think that the Helix DSPs are by far the most advanced DSPs on the market right at the moment while still being reasonably easy to set up. Mosconis are in the same boat feature wise, but the software will give a novice real headaches as it was designed with some completly different workflows in their (the developers) heads. So it has the steepest learning curve of all DSPs that i know.

In regards to setting the Amp-Pro up... it's just two dipswitches that your installer should've already set up. So no need to tinker with that. It's not a radio pro where you have to set up the different brand of aftermarket radio to get the steering wheel controls to work et. al. He should've even set up the chimes and warnings to your liking, but this can be altered with the steering wheel controls according to the manual.

 

[OF5.0]

Usually the Amp-Pros do exactly that.
Anyway. A DSP is the only way to Fix the OPs problem with the system being to bright.

I stand corrected. I just read PAC’s product description for the Ford interface. The description states flat audio output.
The DSR1 acquires the audio signal before the stock amplifier and bypasses it, but retains CAN integrity. The AmpPro acquires the audio signal after the stock amplifier (CAN integrity is retained because nothing has been bypassed).
I’d make sure that the AmpPro was flashed with the latest firmware for the 2020 Mustang 12-speaker system. Then, find a DSP for processing. A bonus for the AmpPro is the ability to add the Toslink output card. The Toslink connection to the to-be-purchased DSP would be the best way to connect both units.

 

[Tyler2386]

I stand corrected. I just read PAC’s product description for the Ford interface. The description states flat audio output.
The DSR1 acquires the audio signal before the stock amplifier and bypasses it, but retains CAN integrity. The AmpPro acquires the audio signal after the stock amplifier (CAN integrity is retained because nothing has been bypassed).
I’d make sure that the AmpPro was flashed with the latest firmware for the 2020 Mustang 12-speaker system. Then, find a DSP for processing. A bonus for the AmpPro is the ability to add the Toslink output card. The Toslink connection to the to-be-purchased DSP would be the best way to connect both units.

Thanks. The amp pro was installed pre-factory amp. Not sure if this is what you meant.

I will have to check about firmware updates. I was considering recommending that the installer use the optional toslink. Thanks

 

[OF5.0]

Thanks. The amp pro was installed pre-factory amp. Not sure if this is what you meant.

I will have to check about firmware updates. I was considering recommending that the installer use the optional toslink. Thanks

My eyes can’t read this morning. The system flow diagram clearly shows a t-harness between the factory amp and the AmpPro.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

The AmpPro is installed between the HU and the OEM amp. The OEM amp handles the EQ of the system.

I would use a DSP to clean up the factory HU signal, then make the adjustments for the output. Your going to need a mic and a laptop/tablet for this. The mic will read the peak noise (static) playing and you can see what needs to be lowered/raised on the DSP EQ. You want to make the output signal flat as possible. Once that is done, then you can fine tune it to your liking.

I setup my friends DSR1, and it was not that bad. I have the AudioControl DM810 with alot more options.

 

[m3incorp]

On a side note, which speakers did you use to replace the B&O speakers? Did you replace all speakers to include the pillar and dash speakers?

 

[Tyler2386]

On a side note, which speakers did you use to replace the B&O speakers? Did you replace all speakers to include the pillar and dash speakers?

Yes. Alpine Type x components, type r coax (rear) and infinity mids.

Update: added the JL Twk. What a difference! This system is fantastic. Going to add the JL stealthbox in replacement of factory sub enclosure. Otherwise I’m done.

 

[chowman90]

Yes. Alpine Type x components, type r coax (rear) and infinity mids.

Update: added the JL Twk. What a difference! This system is fantastic. Going to add the JL stealthbox in replacement of factory sub enclosure. Otherwise I’m done.

Your opinion on the JL TWK 88? Have the Dayton DSP 408. Was thinking of changing out to the TWK.

 

[Tyler2386]

Your opinion on the JL TWK 88? Have the Dayton DSP 408. Was thinking of changing out to the TWK.

The result is fantastic. My installer handled the tuning (with me present to provide feedback). It has a ton of options/settings. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

 

[StangTime]

Your opinion on the JL TWK 88? Have the Dayton DSP 408. Was thinking of changing out to the TWK.

The Twk is a serious piece of hardware designed for use in an automotive environment. The Dayton was designed for home use but has found it's way into car audio. It was not designed for the mobile environment and can introduce noise into the signals. If you're not having that problem then I would say upgrading is probably not worth the cost or hassle as they have very similar features.

 

[BadHabit2Break]

I have heard the same about the Dayton DSP. Had someone on a Tacoma forum that put one in and then had to help troubleshoot the noise. Come to find out it was the Dayton DSP. He sent it back and bought something else and the noise was no more.

 

[Tyler2386]

For anyone interested in replacing the center channel speaker (as opposed to disconnecting it, as some are doing):

I purchased a pair of Inifinity Kappa mids (sold only in pairs). I paid $140 at local retailer.

I only need one, so I am selling the other one. 1/2 the cost for the pair, plus shipping to you.

I think this is a good improvement over stock, and is better than disconnecting the center channel.

 

[m3incorp]

What is the model of the Infinity and what ohms are they? Thanks

For anyone interested in replacing the center channel speaker (as opposed to disconnecting it, as some are doing):

I purchased a pair of Inifinity Kappa mids (sold only in pairs). I paid $140 at local retailer.

I only need one, so I am selling the other one. 1/2 the cost for the pair, plus shipping to you.

I think this is a good improvement over stock, and is better than disconnecting the center channel.

 

[Tyler2386]

Pic attached.

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