AEM Dry Flow. Dyno Graph.

[EPTS550]

It could be. We’re at 3300ft elevation and it was in the upper 90s that day. My car made 440 with just tune in December. Same dyno

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[AZ18yote]

I'd think his buddies car with E85 tune and headers would be closer to 500 whp? just curious if the number discrepancy due to a different dyno.. also stock GT makes around 420 whp on most dynos i've seen and a E85 tune would put it somewhere close to 450 whp ?

Different dyno true, also CF drive shaft and light weight wheels which lead to less parasitic loss to the wheels.

My stock dyno was 424 / 401 on the same dyno.

I'd value e85 tune plus LTH in the 50 whp or more range on 18+ depending on temps.

 

[Ebm]

Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more air in. Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more contaminants through. It's all a big tradeoff.

For best filtration, stick to a paper filter. For best flow, stick to an aftermarket filter(cotton gauze).

 

[Htk084]

Question- don’t oiled filters filter more contaminates thus provide best of both worlds? Kind of like K&N

Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more air in. Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more contaminants through. It's all a big tradeoff.

For best filtration, stick to a paper filter. For best flow, stick to an aftermarket filter(cotton gauze).

 

[Mustang_Lou]

 

[Biggus Dickus]

Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more air in. Yes, these aftermarket air filters let more contaminants through. It's all a big tradeoff.

For best filtration, stick to a paper filter. For best flow, stick to an aftermarket filter(cotton gauze).

So, I take it the AEM filter does not filter as well as the stock filter?

That's my only hesitation in not going with an aftermarket filter.

 

[Htk084]

Same here. Again, is an oil filter any better at filtering?

So, I take it the AEM filter does not filter as well as the stock filter?

That's my only hesitation in not going with an aftermarket filter.

 

[Htk084]

Oh just saw the video, thanks! Looks like I’ll avoid the Kn after all

 

[WildHorse]

Oh just saw the video, thanks! Looks like I’ll avoid the Kn after all

I wouldn't put much stock into what Project Farm says. Jason Fenske from engineering explained had a vastly different, and scientifically sound analysis on the K&N drop-in.

 

[Mustang_Lou]

The K&N did certainly flow the most and had the best performance improvement. Yeah, it let's more dirt in but I honestly don't thing you can have 1 without the other. Like most mods, it's a give-and-take and you decide if the give is worth more than the take.
I'd personally have no issue running a K&N (have before) and will be searching for a cone replacement for the Bullitt's paper cone filter once I get measurements.

 

[IrishStallion]

With a 10 quart oil capacity and most guys changing their full synthetic oil at 5k or less I would not worry about a higher flowing air filter. A lot of turbo and centri peeps run just screens on their setups.

 

[Ebm]

Question- don’t oiled filters filter more contaminates thus provide best of both worlds? Kind of like K&N

You'll see the problem with aftermarket air filters(Cotton gauze) when you hold them up to light. Then hold a traditional paper filter up to light. There's a pretty big difference.

All these aftermarket air filter companies test their filters using the ISO-5011 test. This is all well and good, but they somehow always test against 1 level of dust particle but never the other. I have no doubt K&N filters efficiently against coarse dust particles. My hang up is how well K&N filters filter out fine dust particles(exhaust soot for example. There are other pollutants that you would find in a city as well). Fine dust particles are all around us. I referenced an article about K&N filter testing straight from K&N's own website. I bolded the first line. Notice how they only test against coarse dust particles. This is on purpose. Their filtration efficiency against fine dust particles is much lower. Both types of dust particles take a toll on the engine after a while.

Straight from a blog on K&N's own website:

Filter Testing
Filters are typically subjected to testing procedures involving coarse test dust, which includes particles ranging in size from less than 5.5 microns to 176 microns. (As a point of reference, a human hair is approximately 50 microns in diameter). One important distinction is that almost any filter stop extremely low-micron particles—but the important factor is the percentage of those particles it stops.

For example, a length of chicken wire can potentially filter out microscopic particles—but only in the rare instance that the particles directly collide with the wire! In this case, only an extremely small percentage of the particles would actually be stopped by the wire, but it could still be claimed that the wire “stops 1-micron particles”—even if it only captured a few. As we consider the various mechanisms of filtration, we must evaluate their efficiency at capturing and containing the greatest percentage of particles. For this reason, impaction is complemented by the additional two filtration mechanisms—interception and diffusion.

Reference: https://www.knfilters.com/blog/how-k-n-high-flow-air-filters-capture-microscopic-particles/

Automotive air filters should be tested against fine dust.

 

[Mustang_Lou]

But seriously what damage can "fine dust" do to an engine? If one worries about that and exhaust soot getting into an engine, best to stick with the paper filter.

The oil change frequency has some merit but remember that the intake air enters the engine from the top, not through the oil pan. But yeah, the piston walls will have a thin film of oil to catch fine particles and the more frequent the oil is changed the less of those particles build up in it.

One reason I like the oiled type of filter is the oil will catch those finer particles I'd think more over a high-flow non-oiled filter.

 

[Performance nut]

I love PF, dude does a good job and tries really hard to make this as scientific as possible. Though this one has some rather significant holes in it.

• A pre filter on the fan to catch what actually got by the filters should have been used. This would have done a better job than the particle counter.
  • What that showed me is that there was some flow conditions in the box we couldn't see (swirling for example) that the K&N was able to defeat with the added velocity.
• Also dumping flour on the filter isn't the use case for these filters unless guys are in the habit of driving their cars through large loosely packed dust piles.
  • I'm sure there is a "saturation" of the K&N filter which the dump of flour exceeded (exceeded all of them I'm sure).
• He started the video as correlating engine life to filtration capabilities (better filtering makes an engine last longer) though offered no real evidence of how much filtration an engine needs to "last longer"
  • He did a good job of showing performance (within his means). The question I have is longevity. He does numerous tests on oils showing wear on metal surfaces as well as chemical cleaning agents on how well they clean. The next logical step seems to figure out how to correlate air cleanliness to longevity to see at what point engine failure increases.

I wouldn't use this to necessarily strongly sway your future purchases as there are holes in the findings in regards to longevity and filtration capabilities. Though I would not completely exclude it either as there is some logic to it all like the pressure tests and the 0-60 times. As with all things, take it with a grain of salt.

 

[thornclaw]

looking at the graphs it looks like peak power is increased but low rpm power is decreased
i had an aem but put the stock back in because it felt sluggish

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