active exhaust not available

[shadowx]

I have a gt 19 with active exhaust( installed corsa) and never had a problem with it. but since few days until now I can't change the exhaust mode even if I change the driving mode. Actually, sometimes I can change it but in less than a minute it says not available again and returns to normal mode. I wonder if it's because the freezing weather here in MO? Any one had this problem with cold weather?

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[Rapid Red]

Might be, have you ever lubed the valves. When you see the error, shut down the car. Have a look see if both are open the same amount.

Thinking they will be different. Using your favorite lube, (WD40). Inside of the tip, top of butter fly see the shaft hose it down, and at the bottom also. Do both diver and pass side.

Preventive maintenance good place to start. Inside of tip black, good chance they could be sticking. Cold temperatures shrinks things.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Aside from the above regarding the valves, check the rear connectors and harnesses by the valves. It’s a common issue that the harnesses melt or get damaged. If there is black conduit on the wires, you’ll have to peel it back to see the condition of the actual wires.

Do a wiggle test first of the connectors and make sure they’re secured, if no success in getting them to work, check wiring.

 

[silverbullet85]

I would second checking the wire harness above the mufflers its a know issue even on a stock car

 

[Elp_jc]

The main issue with the harness is the wires touching the sharp sheet metal pinch welds, especially on the right side. The insulation eventually gives way, causing a short circuit. I checked my car when new, and even though the right wires were closer than I'd like to that metal, they're not in danger of touching, but I still bent them up a little more, just in case.

 

[shadowx]

Might be, have you ever lubed the valves. When you see the error, shut down the car. Have a look see if both are open the same amount.

Thinking they will be different. Using your favorite lube, (WD40). Inside of the tip, top of butter fly see the shaft hose it down, and at the bottom also. Do both diver and pass side.







Preventive maintenance good place to start. Inside of tip black, good chance they could be sticking. Cold temperatures shrinks things.

Sorry for the delay, yeah sometimes they weren't open the same amount and I put WD40 and made it always opens the same amount

Aside from the above regarding the valves, check the rear connectors and harnesses by the valves. It’s a common issue that the harnesses melt or get damaged. If there is black conduit on the wires, you’ll have to peel it back to see the condition of the actual wires.

Do a wiggle test first of the connectors and make sure they’re secured, if no success in getting them to work, check wiring.

I would second checking the wire harness above the mufflers its a know issue even on a stock car

The main issue with the harness is the wires touching the sharp sheet metal pinch welds, especially on the right side. The insulation eventually gives way, causing a short circuit. I checked my car when new, and even though the right wires were closer than I'd like to that metal, they're not in danger of touching, but I still bent them up a little more, just in case.

It was cold and there was some ice and snow everywhere I didn't want to bother to check the harnesses so I went to the dealer 2 days ago to see what's wrong. I waited around 4 hours. ( I got CEL previously, the Fordpass app sent me "the catalytic converter efficiency is below an acceptable level" but the light disappeared the next day right before going to the dealership. Also Fordpass sent me "unable to fully open or close the upper active grille shutters" the dealer claimed I have those because of "exhaust flow control valve fault ". The dealer gave me these codes: P0430 , P1703 , P2BF5.

In the end, I've waited extra 1.5 hour then they said there is cut in the wire connected to the right actuator. They said because I have after market exhaust system, the diagnosis will cost $90 and won't be free. so yeah the wires on the right muffler was touching and with the cold weather made it break I guess.

The harnesses costs $52 and the labor almost $300 lol. I ordered it online for 30 ish and will install it myself in minutes.

 

[shadowx]

this is the broken wire

 

[saleen367]

Not to restructure this thread again, but I also want to remind people that if you have frayed or cut a wire on the pinch weld on the passenger side (seems to be the worse offender), this will likely also fry the #34 fuse in the engine compartment.

Learned this myself from experience. Replaced the harness to the actuator and still got the message and couldn't understand why. Replaced the bad fuse and all is well.

 

[cprime]

Sorry for the delay, yeah sometimes they weren't open the same amount and I put WD40 and made it always opens the same amount





It was cold and there was some ice and snow everywhere I didn't want to bother to check the harnesses so I went to the dealer 2 days ago to see what's wrong. I waited around 4 hours. ( I got CEL previously, the Fordpass app sent me "the catalytic converter efficiency is below an acceptable level" but the light disappeared the next day right before going to the dealership. Also Fordpass sent me "unable to fully open or close the upper active grille shutters" the dealer claimed I have those because of "exhaust flow control valve fault ". The dealer gave me these codes: P0430 , P1703 , P2BF5.

In the end, I've waited extra 1.5 hour then they said there is cut in the wire connected to the right actuator. They said because I have after market exhaust system, the diagnosis will cost $90 and won't be free. so yeah the wires on the right muffler was touching and with the cold weather made it break I guess.

The harnesses costs $52 and the labor almost $300 lol. I ordered it online for 30 ish and will install it myself in minutes.

Do you have a link to the part you ordered? I’ve been searching through this forum trying to find which wire harness I need to order for this same problem. I’ve seen people mention 3 different part numbers and I’m not sure which is the one I need

 

[njweatherman]

I found this posted by HollowKEYS in February.
Active Exhaust Actuators: JR3Z-5K245-B

And the Active Exhaust Pigtail
harness: JR3Z-14A411-H

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