A few questions about my new Roush Stage 1 670 super charger.

[NicksRubyRed15GT]

670 kit? what tune?

Yep 670 kit and I was running a Lund tune. I had one for the street and one for the track

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[Doctor Fishtail]

Do you have a folding chair in your trunk? Sell the car

:lol::lol:

 

[WhiteyDog]

Yep 670 kit and I was running a Lund tune. I had one for the street and one for the track

Same here. Phase 1 kit, but with headers and Lund tune.

 

[NicksRubyRed15GT]

My 10.4@135 was with catless headers. I picked up a good bit going to catless longtubes. I went [email protected] with the stock headers and cats

 

[Bybotie]

It's hot as balls down here in Texas. I second the opinion of the VMP heat exchanger. If you have the money, a PP radiator would help.

 

[spogshd]

Yep 670 kit and I was running a Lund tune. I had one for the street and one for the track

Have you had it on a dyno. I have just fitted the roush stage one with a lund tune, I'm interested to know what its kicking out, must be around the 700 mark.

 

[NicksRubyRed15GT]

I did put it on a dyno locally. It made 669/5?? Before the headers on my race tune. I think that was a little high but the times say other. It should have made around 700 after the headers

 

[sigintel]

I have an Auto with Whipple stage 2 / lund tune ,otherwise stock.Within a week diff mount snapped off taking one half shaft with it.This happened on hard kickdown on stock wheels tyres.Diff was the weaker aluminium casing one fitted to autos.

Thanks for posting this up. Thats sounds like a bad diff bolt or casting and not half shaft.
Thats amazing. What tires were you running?
Post some pics of the UK diff?
The US 3.15 are hella stout and cheap. $300 spares at junk yard.
Tracking with one this year but itll prolly break now that I mentioned it.

I bought a new Roush stage 1 670 super charger for my new 2017 mustang GT auto....

...I live in a hot climate. Does anyone recommend a coolant additive to help keep temperatures down?

Has anyone experienced or heard of any rear axle failures do to the extra HP. I hear the ford axles are the weakest point on the mustangs drive train.

I only have 1800 miles on the car, should I wait for the engine to break in before I install the super charger? My oil still looks new.

Your advice and or suggestions are appreciated.

Having tracked in Houston and living in Austin, heat is a real issue in traffic.
Remove the battery cover, weatherstrip and hood rear coping to get underhood temps way down, REISCHE 170 thermostat($50), Ford motorcraft prediluted factory coolant, maybe GT350/PP radiator ($500), lower grill delete while bumpers off. If you use water wetter, maybe only use one. It may help a little bit like a bandaid, but nothing like improved airflow, tstat, and radiator.
I noticed a small improvement of maybe 3-5F, but I needed an improvement of like 30-50F. Added a second quart of WW and no further improvement. Drained it all out and found precipitate. Filled and drained twice w DI water to clear that junk out and went w stock OEM Motorcraft prediluted per owners manual. Even with 5-8F from WW, not sure its worth messing w coolant chemistry which Ford has engineered for maximum corrosion protection with all polymers, seals, dissimilar metals and the all important head gasket.

Everything else should be fine unless you put drag slicks on back at which point a set of halfshafts might be wise.

Watch your CHT in traffic and post back if over 235.

If you are going to bounce 7500 or 8000 and drive it hard frequently or drive hard before CHT hits 195 from a cold start:
ATI damper, OPG, TG.

 

[WhiteyDog]

Thanks for posting this up. Thats sounds like a bad diff bolt or casting and not half shaft.
Thats amazing. What tires were you running?
Post some pics of the UK diff?
The US 3.15 are hella stout and cheap. $300 spares at junk yard.
Tracking with one this year but itll prolly break now that I mentioned it.

Having tracked in Houston and living in Austin, heat is a real issue in traffic.
Remove the battery cover, weatherstrip and hood rear coping to get underhood temps way down, REISCHE 170 thermostat($50), Ford motorcraft prediluted factory coolant, maybe GT350/PP radiator ($500), lower grill delete while bumpers off. If you use water wetter, maybe only use one. It may help a little bit like a bandaid, but nothing like improved airflow, tstat, and radiator.
I noticed a small improvement of maybe 3-5F, but I needed an improvement of like 30-50F. Added a second quart of WW and no further improvement. Drained it all out and found precipitate. Filled and drained twice w DI water to clear that junk out and went w stock OEM Motorcraft prediluted per owners manual. Even with 5-8F from WW, not sure its worth messing w coolant chemistry which Ford has engineered for maximum corrosion protection with all polymers, seals, dissimilar metals and the all important head gasket.

Everything else should be fine unless you put drag slicks on back at which point a set of halfshafts might be wise.

Watch your CHT in traffic and post back if over 235.

If you are going to bounce 7500 or 8000 and drive it hard frequently or drive hard before CHT hits 195 from a cold start:
ATI damper, OPG, TG.

Man, I don't know how you guys in Texas and the deep south can handle that kind of heat. It was in the 90's the last three days here in PA and I was pissed. And you guys have that and worse all summer, I'd be losing my mind. But yeah, my Lund tune has my fans come on at 185-190 degrees, I installed a Reische 170, cut out my hood vent area WAY larger than the stock vents and installed the Scott Drake vents, removed my rubber strip from the rear of the hood, and removed my fog lights and installed hoses that are pointed somewhat at the engine for more airflow. Did those hoses help?, eh, not sure, but it certainly didn't hurt. My CHT's don't go above 200. And same here, I wait until my temps are in the green and cylinder temps are up enough before I drive it, then I wait a little longer before I put my foot in it.

 

[DrDanimalSize]

You lund tuned guys running the ford 47# injectors still?

 

[EastTNMustang]

Have you had it on a dyno. I have just fitted the roush stage one with a lund tune, I'm interested to know what its kicking out, must be around the 700 mark.

I think you meant to say "roush PHASE one"...Stage one is the body kit.

 

[EastTNMustang]

Man, I don't know how you guys in Texas and the deep south can handle that kind of heat. It was in the 90's the last three days here in PA and I was pissed. And you guys have that and worse all summer, I'd be losing my mind. But yeah, my Lund tune has my fans come on at 185-190 degrees, I installed a Reische 170, cut out my hood vent area WAY larger than the stock vents and installed the Scott Drake vents, removed my rubber strip from the rear of the hood, and removed my fog lights and installed hoses that are pointed somewhat at the engine for more airflow. Did those hoses help?, eh, not sure, but it certainly didn't hurt. My CHT's don't go above 200. And same here, I wait until my temps are in the green and cylinder temps are up enough before I drive it, then I wait a little longer before I put my foot in it.

I like your method for letting the car warmup before getting on it...I've heard from several tech sources that letting the car get to operating temp is important for any boosted motor (sc or turbo), before you apply that boost in large numbers. I drive my car cautiously until temp is normal, then have fun

 

[Angry50]

i daily my M6 gt with the phase 1 kit and have had zero issues. all stock other than MGW shifter. only made it to track twice so far but those were bad trips like 4 passes total. so nothing amazing yet.

 

[sigintel]

Man, I don't know how you guys in Texas and the deep south can handle that kind of heat. It was in the 90's the last three days here in PA and I was pissed. And you guys have that and worse all summer, I'd be losing my mind. But yeah, my Lund tune has my fans come on at 185-190 degrees, I installed a Reische 170, cut out my hood vent area WAY larger than the stock vents and installed the Scott Drake vents, removed my rubber strip from the rear of the hood, and removed my fog lights and installed hoses that are pointed somewhat at the engine for more airflow. Did those hoses help?, eh, not sure, but it certainly didn't hurt. My CHT's don't go above 200. And same here, I wait until my temps are in the green and cylinder temps are up enough before I drive it, then I wait a little longer before I put my foot in it.

Sounds hella good!
Did you remove the battery tray cover and plastic coping that has the lip? You have to remove wiper arms (easy) then put them back after pulling coping.
This made a huge difference for me. The bottle neck to airflow is air getting out.
Pulling coping got me 15-20F when sitting in traffic. I can now run AC and do burnouts in 100 F weather in traffic. Lol.

 

[spogshd]

I think you meant to say "roush PHASE one"...Stage one is the body kit.

It's a UK thing.

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