9h coating then pollen dump

[Stangomydreams]

I own a townhouse with only outdoor parking. Sunday weather conditions were warm and dry enough for me to do a second ceramic coat on the car (first done by me last year when car was new). Went well - shiny and smooth. Got it home and it sat for the required 24hours. Some sun and some shade. Checked next morning and there was a rough texture crust from pollen coating the hood and trunk of car (stupid wind and pine trees). Am I best at this point to let it sit for the rest of the week to cure before washing or go to the manual wash and get the pollen off. Rain forecast Thursday. Thanks in advance.

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[cerbomark]

I would let it cure so you don t ruin the whole job. then go back over rough area with a hand wash, then re check, if still there then go over area by hand with a light polish until smooth. re apply ceramic to that area alone.
BTW/. can you buy 9H industrial grade ceramic. I can t find anything but the weaker formulas in NY? I did my M1 with over the counter ceramic. works well but doesn't last .

 

[cerbomark]

I see the 9H now online, I don t think it s as durable or the same as what the detailers use. ??

 

[Stangomydreams]

Same as a detailer uses. 9h is a generic term referring to hardness of the si02 formula. I use it only to say what I used was a real ceramic coating and not a hybrid like turtle wax or griots sell. Yes I think I will let it sit to Sunday then wash and see what's below the pollen. Car is well coated so not worried about etching etc. Thanks for the input! Appreciated.

 

[Bikeman315]

Same as a detailer uses. 9h is a generic term referring to hardness of the si02 formula. I use it only to say what I used was a real ceramic coating and not a hybrid like turtle wax or griots sell. Yes I think I will let it sit to Sunday then wash and see what's below the pollen. Car is well coated so not worried about etching etc. Thanks for the input! Appreciated.

Just FYI, the whole 9H hardness rating is pure BS. Some coatings are superior to others but it has little to do with how well they stand up to a pencil.

Just one article on the subject. There are many others.

https://www.ocdcarcare.com/educatio...oating-marketing-lies-9h-10h-hardness-values/

Also many manufacturers use 9H in their product name to add even more confusion.

Lastly the formulations between consumer grade and dealer grade coatings can most certainly be different. I spoke to Gyeon about this before I coated my car three years ago.

 

[Stangomydreams]

Sure I agree and have even seen 10h used, but would also say MOST of the detailing products and what the "pro detailers" and "pro coatings" charge is BS. This is a world of phenomenal marketing, huge markups, you tube shills and massive labour costs to the point it becomes a rich persons game if you buy in fully. A thousand for a coating or several thou for plastic sheeting? Give me a break. I have self detailed all my vehicles over the years from hondas to duramax trucks to 35foot fifth wheel trailers and am always asked who I hired and how to get their cars looking like mine. I also always get top money at trade. Remember all "pro" means is someone who charges $$ -not someone who is smarter/better in any field. I do think those who are not willing to research (more than read marketing bs) products and application are better to either not bother at all or at least research who they hire to hand their wallet to.

 

[Bikeman315]

Sure I agree and have even seen 10h used, but would also say MOST of the detailing products and what the "pro detailers" and "pro coatings" charge is BS. This is a world of phenomenal marketing, huge markups, you tube shills and massive labour costs to the point it becomes a rich persons game if you buy in fully. A thousand for a coating or several thou for plastic sheeting? Give me a break. I have self detailed all my vehicles over the years from hondas to duramax trucks to 35foot fifth wheel trailers and am always asked who I hired and how to get their cars looking like mine. I also always get top money at trade. Remember all "pro" means is someone who charges $$ -not someone who is smarter/better in any field. I do think those who are not willing to research (more than read marketing bs) products and application are better to either not bother at all or at least research who they hire to hand their wallet to.

Honestly it is hard to disagree with anything you have said. There is no question that a skilled amateur (not paid) can do a job equal to most of the pros using the same equipment. I believe that I have the skills but do not want to put in the time, effort, or money to do the work myself. I spent my time researching detailers and found one that met all my requirements. I then contacted the companies he represented to get product information. This is when I found out that not all coatings are the same. A pro level coating in the wrong hands can create a disaster. A consumer coating is far more forgiving and a new user will stand a much better chance of a positive outcome.

I have always said, "you buy the detailer, not the product". It's a total package. I feel that my guy charged a reasonable price for the work that was done and I'm still recommending him three years later. Sure there are bums out there but do your due diligence and you will most likely pass them by.

 

[lizardrko]

Sure I agree and have even seen 10h used, but would also say MOST of the detailing products and what the "pro detailers" and "pro coatings" charge is BS. This is a world of phenomenal marketing, huge markups, you tube shills and massive labour costs to the point it becomes a rich persons game if you buy in fully. A thousand for a coating or several thou for plastic sheeting? Give me a break. I have self detailed all my vehicles over the years from hondas to duramax trucks to 35foot fifth wheel trailers and am always asked who I hired and how to get their cars looking like mine. I also always get top money at trade. Remember all "pro" means is someone who charges $$ -not someone who is smarter/better in any field. I do think those who are not willing to research (more than read marketing bs) products and application are better to either not bother at all or at least research who they hire to hand their wallet to.

Sure some claim to be "pros" yet are not. True "pros" can mot likely do a better job then you. As far as charging $1k for a coating, most of that is labor. Applying the coating is easy, it is the prep that takes the longest (mostly the polishing step). You pay for their knowledge on polish/compound/pad combo, speed, etc. I have done all this on multiple cars and it does take 1-2 days for everything. It is very time consuming. Plus not everyone wants to do all this themselves, thus hire a pro (an actual pro).

 

[ay1820]

I agree with just about everything that has been said here, and I am certainly no expert, but would add one more point ... If you don't know what you are doing you can do a lot of damage, especially if you are using a machine. If you are unwilling to put some time into learning how to do it right, you are probably better off leaving it to a pro.

 

[VIPR01]

Just to be clear are you saying the pollen dried in the coating? Slightly confused, what’s the point in washing it if it’s crusted up, I’d polish it off - find a garage or bay, do over. If there’s that much junk cooked in the coating.


*Unfortunately, after about 15 months you will find out the true “H” rating - when you are able to polish it off without sanding. Recommend applying any coating inside, too many contaminates flying around-but I also understand you have to work with what you have. 10H on the MOHS scale HaHa that’s comical.

 

[cerbomark]

wash it first in case it just dried up pollen on top of the coating and may come right off. Then take it from there. I always start with the simplest solution and work up.

 

[Stangomydreams]

Nothing has dried "in the coating" and it was applied , flashed and buffed indoors. There was no rain since application Sunday and temps have been warm. As I said I don't have an option to store the car indoors for days. I do cover it with a good quality outdoor cover if unused for a time and it is winter stored in a heated indoor facility. Pretty certain there will be no polishing required to get the pollen off so I am leaving the coating to continue to cure before a wash. Was hoping to hear from someone this has happened to so as to see the specific effect of pollen on new ceramic but I remain un worried.

 

[Homebrw]

Great article. Thanks @Bikeman315. Anyone have some good reccos for products? I used McKees 47 on my Civic Types R when I got it, and it was easy. Just not sure how effective.

Thanks

 

[Bikeman315]

Great article. Thanks @Bikeman315. Anyone have some good reccos for products? I used McKees 47 on my Civic Types R when I got it, and it was easy. Just not sure how effective.

Thanks

Well you are going to get numerous answers here as everyone has their favorite. Mine is Gyeon. Since having my car professionally coated three years ago I have switched over of all of their products. Not the cheapest but the quality and results are top notch.
https://gyeonquartz.com/

Edit: Found this site if you really want to blow your brains out.
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php

 

[DFB5.0]

Great article. Thanks @Bikeman315. Anyone have some good reccos for products? I used McKees 47 on my Civic Types R when I got it, and it was easy. Just not sure how effective.

Thanks

As mentioned, everyone has their favorites. I don't use Ceramic coatings but the following are easy to work with for those not doing this all day, every day -

-Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light
-CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0
-The new EVO Gyeon coatings are also said to be easy to work with.

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