350R Wheel/Tire Question

[KiLLeR2001]

Anyone know the offsets on the R wheels?

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[DrumReaper]

The problem with the R wheels is the aesthetics... The 6G replicas work, but there is currently is no solution for the lengthy, unsightly studs up front, especially if you choose an open lug. The look is unbearably ugly.

I have been working on this situation ever since I got my R in March... And so far, I have no solution to the unsightliness of the stud/lug issue.

 

[RustedAngel]

I can understand not wanting the CF wheels as street tires as the PSC2 tires aren't particularly great cold on the streets, but why not have them as a track set? Once the PSC2s are warm they are excellent. Also the weight savings of the CF wheels on the track will be extremely beneficial

While I agree - they're not easily replaceable and definitely not repairable. I'd rather go with a Forgeline that if I have a blowout or curb the wheel real good, chances are I can fix it and at worst case, replace it without much fuss. Those carbon wheels are awesome and all, I just don't want to risk them. The SC2s will be the first set of tires I blow through though. I'm just going to keep the stock wheels stored. :clap2:

 

[nastang87xx]

You have to dial in the right air pressure for a heavier car like ours and run the proper camber and toe setups.

What pressures are you running? I've driven an eclectic bunch on 71R's and they are a GREAT tire, but I've noticed they all start to lose it after say the two laps around say the Milwaukee Mile + infield or back to back to back (x3) autocross runs.

 

[Hack]

So!

After meeting my self set goals for the year in real estate, I've finally reached a point where I can buy my beloved R.

I do not want to keep the Carbon wheels as a daily or track set - which leads me to wonder what options I have in terms of a square setup.

Have any out there tried a 19/11.5 on the front? I'm thinking GAR1 Open Lugs in a 19/11.5 square setup running 305/30s.

If anyone knows the answer to this, it would be greatly appreciated.

Obviously it will be your car and you can do whatever you want. However, I would stick with Ford's setup for track driving. Or at the minimum try the stock setup before you change the handling balance of the car.

I understand you can potentially rotate a square set if the rims interchange, or unmount and remount tires in order to rotate them if necessary. But why be cheap about it?

I can also understand if you prefer oversteer versus a balanced car, but I would still start by asking why not try the stock setup that Ford worked so hard on before changing it?

 

[RustedAngel]

Obviously it will be your car and you can do whatever you want. However, I would stick with Ford's setup for track driving. Or at the minimum try the stock setup before you change the handling balance of the car.

I understand you can potentially rotate a square set if the rims interchange, or unmount and remount tires in order to rotate them if necessary. But why be cheap about it?

I can also understand if you prefer oversteer versus a balanced car, but I would still start by asking why not try the stock setup that Ford worked so hard on before changing it?

Lol. I'm not sure if call my suggestion "being cheap about it." but I understand the point being made. I do plan to drive the car as the factory intended, I just don't want to risk the factory wheels. So my solution while partly in tune to making the car "my own" is also based in the fact that I'll be adding a slight bit of unsprung weight with the Forgelines so adding a little width up front and decreasing tire width in the rear makes sense as to balance that difference up a bit.

Although if I can do a 315/30 on the front, I'd be fairly happy as well since that would simply be adding some contact patch up front, but not sure about the ability to do so.

This setup will be an "in addition to" setup as opposed to a "instead of.", if that makes more sense.

 

[garagelogic]

The problem with the R wheels is the aesthetics... The 6G replicas work, but there is currently is no solution for the lengthy, unsightly studs up front, especially if you choose an open lug. The look is unbearably ugly.

I have been working on this situation ever since I got my R in March... And so far, I have no solution to the unsightliness of the stud/lug issue.

I worked out a solution. PM me if you want the specifics.

 

[Bingo13]

What pressures are you running? I've driven an eclectic bunch on 71R's and they are a GREAT tire, but I've noticed they all start to lose it after say the two laps around say the Milwaukee Mile + infield or back to back to back (x3) autocross runs.

It depends on the course, weather and the car, but 34/34 hot on the '03 Cobra was near perfect for 25 minute sessions on the long tracks, but also running a lot of camber/caster front and rear. On the '00R, 33/32 seemed to be the sweet spot with a similar camber/caster and toe setup. On my son's Boss 302, granted he drives much differently than me, he preferred 35/34, and on his heavily modded S197 GT, 34/33 was the sweet spot. In my experience, 34 hot seems to be the sweet spot for this tire on the V8 Mustangs, although I have a friend with a ZL1 and he swears by 35.5/33 hot on his setup.

I am going to aim for 34/33 hot on the first run with the GT350 and then play with the pressures, providing the rain stays away long enough to experiment. I will be running 7.1 caster, -2.1 camber in the front with -1.3 camber in the rear with total toe in the front at -.05 and rear at .25. Once again, I will adjust these to dial it in and hope the rain stays away long enough to do it. Those settings are a little aggressive for this car, but I like to start on that end and dial it back if needed.

 

[Hack]

SNIP - adding a little width up front and decreasing tire width in the rear makes sense as to balance that difference up a bit.

HUH? Does not compute.

So when you can't make the corner you want the rear of the car to hit the wall rather than the front. Is that what you're saying?

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