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ArgentumS550

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I just got mine back from the dealer since I had slight surging issues, rough idle and it stalled on me twice in one day. I was told that it could be oil getting into the combustion chamber, either from the head or past the rings. This would change the readings downstream at the O2 sensor and tells the engine how to run accordingly...which causes this. I have to drive 200-300 miles and take it back to see how much oil has been lost (they've marked the dipstick). IF this is the issue (which is only on one bank, btw), they will see if its the head or if I need a new short block. Great to get the car back since I bought it two weeks ago and half that time its been at the dealer:curse: .
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Zinc03svt

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I just got mine back from the dealer since I had slight surging issues, rough idle and it stalled on me twice in one day. I was told that it could be oil getting into the combustion chamber, either from the head or past the rings. This would change the readings downstream at the O2 sensor and tells the engine how to run accordingly...which causes this. I have to drive 200-300 miles and take it back to see how much oil has been lost (they've marked the dipstick). IF this is the issue (which is only on one bank, btw), they will see if its the head or if I need a new short block. Great to get the car back since I bought it two weeks ago and half that time its been at the dealer:curse: .
When the cam phasers go bad they cannot flow oil well through them at idle pressures. This will cause them to revert back to 0 degrees which chokes the motor of air into the cylinders. Thus the stumbling and dying. Best of luck.
 

ArgentumS550

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When the cam phasers go bad they cannot flow oil well through them at idle pressures. This will cause them to revert back to 0 degrees which chokes the motor of air into the cylinders. Thus the stumbling and dying. Best of luck.
Cam phasers were one of the many things that were checked and supposedly they are OK.
 

Jetnoise

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So any updates? I have the same voltage jump from 12 to 14.5. I took it in and they claimed it's in normal range.
Weird how the 1st 10 months it never moved always around 14, but now it's "normal".
When at idle it's 12, also when speeding up at 12, but when slowing down it jumps to 14.5 and back to stop it's 12 again.
Rpm I believe is what excites the alternator. Volts moving around on a gauge I'd not be concerned with. The op's issue wasn't electrical. Other than the gauge bouncing what other ailments does your car have? Sorry if Imissef that if you already said.
Did your cam phaser swap fix your gremlin?
 
 








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