2018 GT low rpm engine rattle, cylinder damage pics, Ford buyback process

[88lx50]

LSPI at idle? I would think you would need some kind of load on the engine to cause pre-ignition. The video posted is a car under load, experiencing LSPI.

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[Rash]

Heres mine sounding bad.. Ceratec fixed my bbq tapping but now I have this =/ Dont think it was this loud before. I do have 3k miles on my oil so I will try getting it changed hopefully that helps. Probably going to 5w30.

Car still seems to run great though. Sucks that they have so many weird sounds.

Is that in D or S mode? If not D, does it do it in D? Does it get better when engine warm?

 

[Andy13186]

Is that in D or S mode? If not D, does it do it in D? Does it get better when engine warm?

It was in S mode , in D I dont think I could hit that RPM with the low amount of throttle needed to cause the noise it may shift below that RPM. It does seem to get somewhat better when warm but not perfect. I am on e85 and it seems to have got worse since switching to that =/ No knock on most of the logs though. Ill datalog through that RPM range today. Also going to get an oil change asap and if that doesnt work ill go back to stock and see what the dealer thinks. I already was in line for the light rev rattle fix according to the dealer but the exhaust cam phasers were backordered..

Personally I think this sound is probably piston slap that just resonates at this RPM when cold now but I really dont know

 

[Andy13186]

Just datalogged for 10 mins and drove for over 20 mins replicating this noise. It happens in gears 1st through 6th, cant hear it in 7th or above maybe due to wind noise. It does not happen at all in drive, I couldnt get it to happen even a little bit with the car in drive. Just needs to be sport mode and light throttle up through 1900-2500 rpm. The datalog showed no knock retard.

Maybe some clues. I have the 20 min video of me demonstrating it I may upload, it does get somewhat quieter when hot but doesnt go away.

 

[Andy13186]

I know this is the rattle thread but after my first oil change I get the typewriter tick randomly. It comes and goes. Yesterday was the worst one yet.

Ceratec fixes that one but then you may get the 2k rpm rattle lol

 

[ForgeMustang]

I believe I have figured out the acceleration rattle. If you hold the shifter to the left or right while accelerating it amplifies the noise....the exact same noise. I believe it is either the flywheel or pressure plate, resonating through the engine bay.

Someone else with the rattle try this and see if it makes the rattle louder. It would also explain the clutch grinding at high rpm.

 

[Andy13186]

I believe I have figured out the acceleration rattle. If you hold the shifter to the left or right while accelerating it amplifies the noise....the exact same noise. I believe it is either the flywheel or pressure plate, resonating through the engine bay.

Someone else with the rattle try this and see if it makes the rattle louder. It would also explain the clutch grinding at high rpm.

mines an auto and has the rattle...

 

[wilsons550]

I read the updated specification of oil (945-B1) updated in the later 2018 models and the 2019 models user model reduced LSPI.

I found this on the ford150 forum:
"The recent "B1" spec is a lower calcium formulation to theoretically prevent low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), primarily in small displacement, forced induction, direct injection (i.e. EcoBoost engines) applications. I guess that they are merely attempting to consolidate the specifications as the 2018 5.0L is now a dual MPI-DI engine. The "B1" spec will begin appearing on more and more oils in the immediate future as it is akin the Dexos 1 Gen 2, SAE SN+ formulations being sold. FWIW, my first and only oil change was done with the D1G2, SN+ formulation (more or less B1) oil which three months ago carried the "A" spec. Within the next three months I would bet current production of that same oil will carry the "B1" spec. Either the "A" or the "B1" spec will suffice for your needs."

 

[Dfeeds]

mines an auto and has the rattle...

Just because he can change the rattle with the stick doesn't mean it's directly related to the clutch.

That being said, I have had the same experience. I second guess it everytime I hear it on a cold start because of how loud it is, but moving the shifter does change it. In gear and accelerating, if I hover around the rattle point, I can make the rattle completely disappear by centering the stick. Then when things are warm it's gone. I don't mean 10 minutes of driving warm, I mean 30+ minutes warm. So it could be anything from the clutch to the transmission gears or even just some vibration with the shift rail. The stick is bolted to the car and not the transmission. It's not a design I particularly agree with because your shifter won't vibrate with the transmission. I feel like it's sacrificing precision and durability for the sake of making things "feel" better for the average shmoo. If I had $470 to throw away on the MGW shifter, I'd be all over it.

I've googled 2k rpm rattle and have found a couple of identical sounds to what I have heard in my car (it's comical how many different things can cause a rattle at the same rpm range). The solution usually always involved a heat shield being removed.

The twin disc clutch, dual mass flywheel, and the 10 speed auto, are things that are new to the 2018/2019 model (among other things). What's also new to the 2018/2019 Mustang? Hmm.

But, as I said, not all rattles are equal. Fortunately for anyone with a manual transmission, it's an easy test for some peace of mind. Hell, maybe the auto would react the same, I don't know.

 

[KonaBlu]

Hi all ...I have a 2018 GT PP1 w/ 6MT and had this rattle since about 500 miles on the car. Manufacture date was 11/15/17. I started as a minor rattle only when cold and over 3k miles, presented itself across all temps. I read all the posts in this thread and headed off to the dealer armed with a binder of posts and picture from this forum. I asked the tech to ride along and was able to replicate the noise within seconds. I showed him all of info from this thread and he seemed appreciative. Later that day, dealer called and after the tech consulted with Ford, Ford authorized a short block replacement. Dealer didn’t do much more than stethoscope validation of the noise in the bottom end of the engine. For Ford to authorize a short block so quickly, this must be a growing problem. Service advisor at the dealer said this was the first time they experienced Ford authorizing a short block without detailed troubleshooting and pics. Quick thanks to everyone who took the time to document all this. Dealer said factory is shipping the engine on 21st, so hopefully I’ll be back in the road sometime in January.

Just got a peak at the old engine...5 of 8 cylinders look like this. New engine going in tomorrow. Hope to be back on the road soon.

 

[pro 5.0]

I'm sure some will say that is normal wear LMAO.

 

[Condor1970]

I'm sure some will say that is normal wear LMAO.

Some wear is normal. It all depends on how the car was driven. Looking at the computer memory will be one thing needed to determine that. Like the small scuff line second from the big one on top. If it was just that, with a couple tiny lines, I would say yes it's normal. But with the low miles, and several large scuff lines, NO. That is too much cylinder wear for the low miles of the vehicle. Unless it was dedicated weekend track car, drag racing, and that wear is from 500 miles of peak rpm, then yes, it could be normal.

 

[pro 5.0]

Some wear is normal. It all depends on how the car was driven. Looking at the computer memory will be one thing needed to determine that. Like the small scuff line second from the big one on top. If it was just that, with a couple tiny lines, I would say yes it's normal. But with the low miles, and several large scuff lines, NO. That is too much cylinder wear for the low miles of the vehicle. Unless it was dedicated weekend track car, drag racing, and that wear is from 500 miles of peak rpm, then yes, it could be normal.

The only line that I would find acceptable is the one in the 6 o clock position, those black marks are not normal.

 

[Condor1970]

The only line that I would find acceptable is the one in the 6 o clock position, those black marks are not normal.

Of course they can be, it just depends on how hard it was driven, and for how many miles. If that car had 30-50k miles, I would say it's perfectly normal. But if it only has 10k, then it may be a bit much. Although at 10k, if it was drag raced on weekends or lots of frequent pulls, then yes that would be normal.

 

[pro 5.0]

We are on a forum discussing cylinder damage on a new 2018 / 2019 vehicle they are not going to have 30 - 50 K mileage, let's not confuse this with speculation. Face the fact that there is a PTW clearance issue in the Gen3 motor and let's just leave it at that.

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