2017 Ecoboost tune advice

[photonarbiter]

Hi everyone, it's been another late night of lurking the forums and I finally came up with a few questions to ask.

So I've got an Ecoboost Mustang 6AT that I'd like to start modding. I use it as my daily driver for getting to and from work and aspire to take the car to a track or autocross one day (this wouldn't be very frequent). I don't have a lot of experience with car engines but would like to get hands on with some of the upgrades. I'd like to make the car a bit more powerful while minimizing my risk of "ecoboom".

My plan is to upgrade the car in two phases. Based on what I've been reading here I should be able to get away with a Cold Air Intake and a stage one tune. I'd like some advice on which combination to go with?

My second phase would be to buy an intercooler and possibly add an exhaust. I just need to find a shop in NYC that would be willing to handle that. I don't really know how to search for that.

Also one last question just popped into my head while finishing this. What are the benefits and costs of using a built engine in the event of an engine failure after these upgrades? Is it really worth it?

Thanks for reading my late night questions!

Edit : Thanks for all of your input guys. I'm currently researching intercoolers and so far I've decided that for now it's best to go with a stock replacement intercooler. I'm having trouble determining a real difference between the Mishimoto on cjponyparts and others that are on sale beside them. After I get the intercooler installed I'll start researching pro lifetime tunes. Once again I appreciate all of your help!

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[ice445]

Is warranty a concern or just not blowing up? I'd skip the CAI, the gains are minimal and it can actually hurt you in some cases. Stock airbox is good enough. First thing you want to do is an intercooler upgrade and go from there, the stock unit is pathetic. Exhaust gains are minimal with the exception of a high flow downpipe.

As far as the tune goes, you'll get 900 different answers from everyone, so while you're waiting to choose on that, see how the intercooler wakes up the stock tune.

Built engine wise, I don't think it's worth it unless you have deep pockets and just want to push the platform. The engine already punches way above its class with bolt ons and a tune if you look at what the competitors are doing. Some theorize that's why "ecoboom" is a thing, its already strung out somewhat to make the numbers it does, and some engines just didn't get the factory genetics needed to tolerate any more. LPSI is the main death source, so making sure to use nothing but 93 is important regardless of what you do. I suppose that fact translates to the reality that you don't really control if you get the ecoboom or not, if you tune, get ready to pay to play. Not saying that to scare you, but just be realistic about it.

 

[Chef jpd]

I fully agree with above.
Intercooler is #1.
Some pro tuners will not even work with you if you have a stock unit.

Also, if you have a modicum of mechanical talent and basic tools, you can do the intercooler yourself.

 

[photonarbiter]

Is warranty a concern or just not blowing up? I'd skip the CAI, the gains are minimal and it can actually hurt you in some cases. Stock airbox is good enough. First thing you want to do is an intercooler upgrade and go from there, the stock unit is pathetic. Exhaust gains are minimal with the exception of a high flow downpipe.

As far as the tune goes, you'll get 900 different answers from everyone, so while you're waiting to choose on that, see how the intercooler wakes up the stock tune.

Built engine wise, I don't think it's worth it unless you have deep pockets and just want to push the platform. The engine already punches way above its class with bolt ons and a tune if you look at what the competitors are doing. Some theorize that's why "ecoboom" is a thing, its already strung out somewhat to make the numbers it does, and some engines just didn't get the factory genetics needed to tolerate any more. LPSI is the main death source, so making sure to use nothing but 93 is important regardless of what you do. I suppose that fact translates to the reality that you don't really control if you get the ecoboom or not, if you tune, get ready to pay to play. Not saying that to scare you, but just be realistic about it.

Thanks for the reply! My factory warranty expired a while ago but I have an extended warranty through Ally to cover me up to 100k miles. I'm at 60k right now and I wasn't planning on going further than Stage 1 if there's a significant risk of damaging the car. I already only use 93 from my local Sunoco so I'm getting the most out of my stock setup right now. I was planning to stick to basic additions like a CAI (one of the enclosed ones), a blowoff valve, a Cobb Access port so I can run the stage one tune, and then eventually the intercooler. I'd love to get an exhaust but I need to space out the purchases and figure out all of the costs first. Plus I need to find a place to take it to as well as I'm not prepared to do more than the most basic things on my own.

So your order would be to go with the intercooler first and build up from there? I recently placed a drop in k&n air filter in the car and noticed a slight difference which seemed to lend credence to the CAI first plan.

 

[photonarbiter]

I fully agree with above.
Intercooler is #1.
Some pro tuners will not even work with you if you have a stock unit.

Also, if you have a modicum of mechanical talent and basic tools, you can do the intercooler yourself.

Thanks for the reply! Given how much variety is out there do you think it would be more cost effective to bring the car to a tuner from the very start and have them come up with an upgrade plan so it can be done right the first time and reduce the chance of me using the wrong combination of parts?

 

[Vicr]

If you want to autocross or track it you'll want better brakes since you don't have the PP. Ford Performance has a set of six piston brakes that can be found in the $1100 range. And like the others have said do a decent IC first and then a catback exhaust and a downtube. The stock air box is very well engineered but a highflow filter by AEM or K&N will help.

 

[Chef jpd]

Intercooler first.
Pick a pro tuner, buy a lifetime tune. Canned tunes from Cobb are crap.
Do a baseline tune.
Then, you can buy parts at intervals and get the tune updated with each mod.

I have had my tune updated 4 times to deal with new parts.

 

[photonarbiter]

If you want to autocross or track it you'll want better brakes since you don't have the PP. Ford Performance has a set of six piston brakes that can be found in the $1100 range. And like the others have said do a decent IC first and then a catback exhaust and a downtube. The stock air box is very well engineered but a highflow filter by AEM or K&N will help.

Thanks! I'll go that route. Much appreciated!

 

[photonarbiter]

Intercooler first.
Pick a pro tuner, buy a lifetime tune. Canned tunes from Cobb are crap.
Do a baseline tune.
Then, you can buy parts at intervals and get the tune updated with each mod.

I have had my tune updated 4 times to deal with new parts.

Thanks for the advice! I noticed you're in Brooklyn! I'm in the Bronx. Do you have any recommendations for a tuner I could take mine to?

 

[BLU-PNY]

I have been considering a tune for a year but have not done it yet .....and may not.

My recommendations, in order:

- run 93 octane or closest you can get ( I see you are already doing this)
- verify/set or replace spark plugs with gap @ 0.028
- run in sport/sport+ mode for performance driving
- install drop-in high flow panel filter in stock airbox
- upgrade intercooler
- install resonator delete/y pipe
- replace stock intake tube with Airaid molded intake tube

This is what I have done to my car and I am pretty satisfied with the way it runs on the stock tune. I have 7yr/100k mile warranty and am only a year/5k miles into it.

I went with CVF street intercooler and Y pipe. The total cost of my parts for these mods was about $700. The intercooler was the most expensive item and is most important. All of these will be good additions to support further mods like a tune if you choose to go there. Evaluate after going this far before deciding on a tune.....or perhaps your next mods will be for handling/braking. You might decide to add axle-back mufflers, which would then essentially be a catback system (with the resonator delete). As far as a tune, I can't make a valid recommendation because I have no actual experience with one. Lots of good folks here do, tho…..

 

[Chef jpd]

Thanks for the advice! I noticed you're in Brooklyn! I'm in the Bronx. Do you have any recommendations for a tuner I could take mine to?

All the best tuners are out.of.state. The tuning is done remotely
You hook up your tuning device, do a datalog by doing 3rd gear pull, then send the results.to your tuner via email.
He will send you a file.to flash into your ecu.
You do it a few times until he is satisfied that you are running well.

I use Tune+ with a Cobb Accessport.

 

[Dave TBG]

If you want to autocross or track it you'll want better brakes since you don't have the PP. Ford Performance has a set of six piston brakes that can be found in the $1100 range. And like the others have said do a decent IC first and then a catback exhaust and a downtube. The stock air box is very well engineered but a highflow filter by AEM or K&N will help.

This ^. If your goal is autox, horsepower might not be the best place for your budget. You'll want to look into the rules for the group you want to run with and keep your initial mods to things that won't move you into a class that might be tough to compete in. I spent 7-8 years running PCA events (in a 944) and certain mods were allowed in stock classes (shocks, sway bars, brake pads) but others (bigger calipers, springs) could bump you into "improved" classes or even modified classes (engine internals).
Start by finding out what is allowed and do that first. That said, the EB is a solid platform that would probably do well with a few minor upgrades. Start with the shocks and struts, the stock ones leave a lot to be desired.
As I mentioned, my experience is with a different platform and that was more than a decade ago. Still, some things don't change. Handling and braking will make you faster in the turns, HP helps in the straights but only to a point. It's rarely worth it to shift into third on 99% of the courses I ran. A slight bump to the rev-limiter was a huge gain for me, OTOH, A $10K engine bumped me into a class with cars i couldn't dream of keeping up with.

 

[photonarbiter]

This ^. If your goal is autox, horsepower might not be the best place for your budget. You'll want to look into the rules for the group you want to run with and keep your initial mods to things that won't move you into a class that might be tough to compete in. I spent 7-8 years running PCA events (in a 944) and certain mods were allowed in stock classes (shocks, sway bars, brake pads) but others (bigger calipers, springs) could bump you into "improved" classes or even modified classes (engine internals).
Start by finding out what is allowed and do that first. That said, the EB is a solid platform that would probably do well with a few minor upgrades. Start with the shocks and struts, the stock ones leave a lot to be desired.
As I mentioned, my experience is with a different platform and that was more than a decade ago. Still, some things don't change. Handling and braking will make you faster in the turns, HP helps in the straights but only to a point. It's rarely worth it to shift into third on 99% of the courses I ran. A slight bump to the rev-limiter was a huge gain for me, OTOH, A $10K engine bumped me into a class with cars i couldn't dream of keeping up with.

I haven't done much research into the Autocross thing yet but I'll definitely follow this advice when it comes time for those upgrades. My main use for the car is a highway/city driving car that occasionally has a few pulls on an empty highway or twisty back road. For now I'm going to go with the basic bolt on parts, I don't want to sink too much money into it but I do want it to be a little better. Are there any brands you think I should keep a look out for? I'm gathering everything into a list so I can budget and plan it out in phases.

 

[Vicr]

Look at our signature information

 

[Dave TBG]

.... My main use for the car is a highway/city driving car that occasionally has a few pulls on an empty highway or twisty back road..... Are there any brands you think I should keep a look out for? I'm gathering everything into a list so I can budget and plan it out in phases.

Look at our signature information

Yup, reading signatures is a good place to start.
My car is primarily used for commuting, 40 miles round trip with a little highway in the early morning and a twisty 2 lane on the way home. I tend to take my own advice so I started with the chassis. EBPP brakes and some chassis stiffening were first. Next came the springs, shocks, struts and rear cradle parts. Next up are sway bars and k brace. By then the stock tires should be getting thin so wheels and tires would be upgraded. Then I'll worry about power, intercooler first, downpipe, catback and then a tune to finish it off.

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