2015 Ecoboost suspension build and problems.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by Ryanjhardy90, May 7, 2020.

  1. Roadway 5.0

    Roadway 5.0 Strassejager

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    How far do you want to go?

    What, if any, mods have you done? How old are your brakes?
     
  2. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    Since most of the people that were running the M-18000-F BMR083 combo switched to Ridetech coilovers. I wonder if switching to coilovers right away is the right option. Sure for street car the BMR combo should be good enough and also it's not super expensive. But from all things that I had read lately the Mustang needs like 450-550 lbs front spring to turn as it should which you just can't get with shocks and springs combo on the market. Which leave coilovers as only option. From what I have read is not advisable to use true coilovers on the back since this moves the spring location and will cause tons of issues.

    From most the treads I have read looks like the working combo is:

    Coil overs+RollBars+Adjustable Endlinks + Wheels and tires.
     
  3. Norm Peterson

    Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter

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    Coilovers would be a big step, and it's not yet clear how close to track-only (or track with an absolute minimum of street driving) OP wants to take this car. I'm not yet convinced that coilovers are as durable in street duty, either. If nothing else, coilover damper shafts are not as well protected against the elements.


    Norm
     
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  4. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that with the durability for street use is a big factor since most of the Midrange to High end Coilovers requires expensive rebuild every 1-2 years from what I have read on the subject. So this is a valid considerations. From my understanding if you want cheap and reliable solution the BMR083 combo is the best and closer to the 350R rates as possible.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    Ryanjhardy90

    Ryanjhardy90 Member

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    I drive my car daily so track only is a no no but I'd like to get as close as possible. If this makes sense, and I'm about due to replace the brakes!

    I have been chatting with Brian! So I think I'm in good hands.
     
  6. Brian@BMVK

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    The only reason I have switched is because as of the level of competition I'm planning to be at. To get the responsiveness I needed for most autocross courses, I needed both more spring rate and more damping. If all I did was HPDE and just wanted an amazing handling street car, the old setup was without fault.
     
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  7. shogun32

    shogun32 Well-Known Member

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    I have 220-350 dual-rate on a GT no less, and strongly disagree unless it's purely a track car (and even then)? You want some/enough weight transfer to load up the tires. If you have the money, ~$2000-3500 go with Bilstein B16 (I would look into getting different springs), MCS, Ohlins, or RideTech coil-overs and don't dilly about with legacy suspension. If you're in the $5000 bracket then also Cortex/JRI would be on my short list. If QA1 ever gets around to releasing their solution it's probably worth a look.
     
  8. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    I plan to go with Ohlins as the Vorshlag car was really competative with them and the car was still drivable on the street because of the DFV technology for me this looks like the best bang for buck and easy to source in europe as well.
     
  9. Brian@BMVK

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    The overly soft rear relative to the front will only work well on track with a stiffer rear bar. That will limit overall grip potential vs stiffer springs and softer bar. On the road, it will force the dampers to combat the pitching oscillation tendency of the sprung mass from the ride frequency imbalance. 500# fronts work really well on a track car. You just need a matching rears, also.
     
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  10. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    Did you see the Vorshlag video with the standard rates:


    For me the car looks ok. Ether way in case needed you could always buy other rear springs for the ohlins like 1200 or something like that.
     
  11. Brian@BMVK

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    Yes, and he was also using a Whiteline adjustable bar that allowed for decent corner balance. Terry is also a very quick driver. Just because it was good doesnt mean it can't be better. The spring rates he uses for MCS coilovers (his go-to) have much stiffer rear wheel rates with similar front.
     
  12. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    Thing is that for Out of the box package it looks good enough also I think was just a few tents away from the MCS with the higher spring rates. His go to rates are I think 600 front 1200 rear. But as I said one of the reasons to go with coilovers is that springs are replaceable and there is tons of options for the Ohlins rear springs.
     
  13. shogun32

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    yes but you do realize the Ohlins is a divorced rear...
     
  14. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    I do and this is actually better setup I think because it's like stock which mean less problems like broken halfshafts etc. But Ohlins still use coilover springs in the back just on the stock location from what I understand.
     
  15. shogun32

    shogun32 Well-Known Member

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    2.5" dia and 8" or so long? In which case yes there are a slew of possibilities. But ~1200lb/in is the limit I think.
     
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