first part of suspension build

[Whitewalkers550]

so im starting to do my suspension finally and after reading through all sortsa threads here ive come up with bmr sp083 springs, frpp shocks and struts, steeda camber plates, steeda adjustable end links, bmr front and rear sway bars, bmr shock mounts, bmr cb05, verticle links not sure who yet and lca bearings, anything i missed for a good first step at getting the car more planted?

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[Biggsy]

so im starting to do my suspension finally and after reading through all sortsa threads here ive come up with bmr sp083 springs, frpp shocks and struts, steeda camber plates, steeda adjustable end links, bmr front and rear sway bars, bmr shock mounts, bmr cb05, verticle links not sure who yet and lca bearings, anything i missed for a good first step at getting the car more planted?

Don't need a BMR rear sway bar. A PP rear bar or GT350 bar will do just fine.
Dont over think vertical links because the CB005 will provide the biggest improvement in that area.
The FRPP toe knuckle bearing is an inexpensive item to add to the list.
Add Eibach Bumpstops. Nothing but positive reviews

Everything else looks good. Not a necessity but you can switch out the bushings in the front for bearings. Big improvement in steering and handling. I have BMR CBK760, Steeda Bumpsteer (other options available), Steeda Extended stud lateral link. My thought is if you don't mind doing everything at once and are already pressing out the RLCA bearing you might as well do the fronts too.

I don't know what you have access to and the cost of your shop's services but I personally didn't want to pay for an alignment every time I added a new part and pay a shop several times to press in a bearing so I did everything at once but that's just me.

Edit: I know its easy to spend other people's money but I have BMR CB006 in the front to stiffen it up a bit. Not an expensive part and easy to install. Again, not a necessity or priority compared to something like the CB005.

Others with more knowledge can chime in

 

[Norm Peterson]

I think I'd hold off on getting anybody's rear sta-bar for a while, with the thinking being that the rear bar is best left for last in your quest for a handling balance that best suits you.

And by waiting a bit, you should have a better idea what you want in a rear bar (stiffness-wise). I would not rule out the notion of buying an adjustable rear bar, because you can feel even smallish differences from one adjustment setting to the next.


Norm

 

[Whitewalkers550]

thanks for the input guys, gonna tweak my list a bit now, i do already have the sway bars in i basically got them for free so couldnt argue the price haha but yes i would rather do it and get it aligned once for the time being

 

[Whitewalkers550]

so ive searched and come up with nothing, for the eibach bump stops any one have a part number for them that work with my springs ?

 

[Muevelos]

so ive searched and come up with nothing, for the eibach bump stops any one have a part number for them that work with my springs ?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...iIHFoz9mcAjNWIji46WD6IjgGF_rbaTMaAlt7EALw_wcB

 

[MartinNoHo]

I had been hesitant to install a rear bar (I had the non pp version which is i think .5mm less than the PP bar), but I had a front bar . I got my rear sway bar for a steal (sub 80) and it changed everything, specifically my steering became far lighter and the car felt nimble which to me was great at fast transitioning corners. Then again, I do very small movements when I steer.... I will be keeping them and have no regrets. Also, I have ST coilovers 280 avg progressive front rate and 780 linear rear rate which might make a difference. I think everyones different, and maybe your needs for the car are far different than others. So I'm doing mods that people don't recommend, for instance I think BC coilovers are great if not far better than KONI's + lowering springs, haha.

 

[Dana Pants]

I know of one guy that runs a stiff rear swaybar and stock front swaybar on factory springs. Obviously a lunatic. As others said, this is one of the biggest screws to turn for car behavior and setting it up properly is only possible at autocross and track days.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I had been hesitant to install a rear bar (I had the non pp version which is i think .5mm less than the PP bar), but I had a front bar . I got my rear sway bar for a steal (sub 80) and it changed everything, specifically my steering became far lighter and the car felt nimble which to me was great at fast transitioning corners. Then again, I do very small movements when I steer.... I will be keeping them and have no regrets. Also, I have ST coilovers 280 avg progressive front rate and 780 linear rear rate which might make a difference. I think everyones different, and maybe your needs for the car are far different than others. So I'm doing mods that people don't recommend, for instance I think BC coilovers are great if not far better than KONI's + lowering springs, haha.

It can work, but make sure you're judging your handling characteristics at the limit. That's a very, very difficult to do with any safety on the road. What feels good at 6 tenths may be completely undriveable at the limit of grip.

Philosophically I approach the car setup much like how Sam Strano does: you give up a little rotation and in the slow stuff to get needed stability in the high speed stuff so that you can actually push it hard. Some people can make a naturally oversteery car work great. Most can't.

 

[Vicr]

You can see what I've had done in my sig. along with a serious alignment and I have no need to upgrade the sway bars. I live in the Cascade foothills and we have a lot of curvy, hilly roads and the car carves like a slot car.

 

[MartinNoHo]

You can see what I've had done in my sig. along with a serious alignment and I have no need to upgrade the sway bars. I live in the Cascade foothills and we have a lot of curvy, hilly roads and the car carves like a slot car.

alignment specs? and what makes you so sure you don't need to upgrade sway bars and by "need" I mean how are you so sure it won't be in your favor?

 

[Vicr]

alignment specs? and makes you so sure you don't need to upgrade sway bars and by "need" I mean how are you so sure it won't be in your favor?

The car has very little sway, even sharp hairpins at 50+

 

[Norm Peterson]

The car has very little sway, even sharp hairpins at 50+

At some point, it's not about how much or how little roll develops. It is about where the lateral load transfer ends up going and what happens to the car's understeer-oversteer handling balance as a result.


Norm

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Adjustable sway bars are your friend. I waited far too long to ditch the OEM PP front bar...the new Steeda bit favorably changed the dynamic of the whole car.

I would go so far as to say upgraded dampers and bars, alone, would satisfy most.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Adjustable sway bars are your friend. I waited far too long to ditch the OEM PP front bar...the new Steeda bit favorably changed the dynamic of the whole car.

I would go so far as to say upgraded dampers and bars, alone, would satisfy most.

Only downside to this idea is that bars inherently create more weight transfer, and weight transfer, while impossible to eliminate, is the antithesis of creating maximum grip. Springs control roll and pitch without additional weight transfer. It's a balance. Bars should be used as a tuning aid for roll stiffness balance, not the primary upgrade for increasing roll stiffness.

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