[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

[Glex25]

I keep getting lots of question here and on Facebook so I'm going to try and clear things up.

In order to have working IMRC's you will have 4 connectors(2 Gray & 2 Blue) that you'll have to mess with. The 2 gray connectors are for the IMRC Sensors that detect if the IMRC is in the open or closed position. The 2 blue connectors are for the IMRC Solenoids that allow vacuum to close the IMRC or allow the vacuum to vent opening the IMRC. If your doing lockout none of this applies and all 4 connectors will be left disconnected.

First thing I'm going to address is the P2004 & P2005 codes. No matter what solution you use(My adapters, Hellhorse adapters, or Motorcraft pigtails) you'll need to work with your tuner to adjust the target voltage for the IMRC Sensors as the 2015-2017 sensors put out a different voltage than the 2018 sensors. The reason for this is the 15-17 sensors are putting out 1.16v closed & 4.00v open while the 18 sensors put out 1.45v closed and 3.39v open. The ecu is only seeing 1.45v when it's expecting 1.16v so it's thinking that the IMRC isn't closing all the way and therefor giving the P2004 & P2005 code(IMRC Stuck open) when this happens the ECU will default the IMRC to the always open state until the code is cleared or the problem is fixed. I've heard a few people claim that the voltages didn't have to be changed and everything just worked but the majority of people are having to make adjustments.

Second is the P2008 & P2011 codes. These are the codes that the ECU gives when one of the blue connectors is left unplugged. The code you get is dependent on which connector is connected. I currently have parts on order from China to make PNP Y-connectors that will connect the 2 connectors together. I'm looking at about 1-2 more weeks before the parts come in and I can have the solution tested and verified. In the meantime I can provide a Non-PNP solution that would require you to remove the pins from the blue connectors and insert them into a new connector that I provide. This would give a factory looking appearance vs the DIY methods but would cost a little more and removing the pins can be done with a small screwdriver or even a small nail. If you want to go the DIY route you can either cut and solder the wires together into a single plug or you can use a quick splice to tie the wires together. The wiring for this is green to green and white to yellow. If your using quick splices some of them will have a positive block(pictured below) that will prevent the 2nd wire from passing through the connector. I would drill this out so that the 2nd wire doesn't have to be cut that way you can remove the quick splice in the future and not have to reconnect wires. Also these connectors will corrode and can fail overtime so just be aware of that possibility. It might also be possible to have your tuner just disable one of the codes. I was told by Lund that they could disable the P2011 code but haven't found anyone that's been able to verify this.

If I missed anything please message me and I'll help clear up any misunderstanding and update this post as things change.

Waiting on your PNP Y harness also.
Talking about the sensor and the different voltage readouts for the different years. I have the 2018 manifold but have not installed it or looked at it too closely compared to the 2015-2017 but are the sensors interchangeable so you don't have the issue with the voltage output?

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[gameovergt]

We kept the IMRCs on the first car we did, after that we have locked them all out, makes the install easier, and cheaper for the customer, looks cleaner, and makes it a direct bolt-on for most part.

if you lock them out is there anything you have to tune for? I am an auto car and don't want to lose low end torque if possible.

 

[Bill88stang]

Yes a tune should be done, the mapped points in the ecm that are with the imrc closed are tied into the vct.

 

[EODTech87]

Waiting on your PNP Y harness also.
Talking about the sensor and the different voltage readouts for the different years. I have the 2018 manifold but have not installed it or looked at it too closely compared to the 2015-2017 but are the sensors interchangeable so you don't have the issue with the voltage output?

Send me a message about the Y-adapter so that I don't forget. It's easy to miss someone in a 1000 reply thread.

The 2018 manifold has them built into the actuators while the 2015-2017 had them as a separate piece. The mounting points changes do you can't just swap them out. Lund has told a few customers that the voltage doesn't matter but then again once I mentioned it they sent me a update and my CEL went away so maybe I'm wrong or maybe all the tuners at Lund aren't on the same page.

 

[Cream Puff]

Send me a message about the Y-adapter so that I don't forget. It's easy to miss someone in a 1000 reply thread.

The 2018 manifold has them built into the actuators while the 2015-2017 had them as a separate piece. The mounting points changes do you can't just swap them out. Lund has told a few customers that the voltage doesn't matter but then again once I mentioned it they sent me a update and my CEL went away so maybe I'm wrong or maybe all the tuners at Lund aren't on the same page.

I've been talking to Jon Jr at lund and the voltage definitely matters and is part of their tune. Unless of course you do lockouts then it doesn't matter at all.. Sounds like a miscommunication.

 

[AdrianMAK]

if you lock them out is there anything you have to tune for? I am an auto car and don't want to lose low end torque if possible.

Yes you would need to tune for the IMRC being locked out, you have to tell the PCM that they are not working.

 

[gameovergt]

Yes you would need to tune for the IMRC being locked out, you have to tell the PCM that they are not working.

thanks

 

[5.0dad]

I'm trying to decide whether to go locked out or not, N/A with 3.31 gear. Any suggestions.

 

[Velgen]

I'm going down this route so i've read anything related to the 18 IM on this forum as well as FB and any other sources I can find. I'm Procharged so the logical thing is to go with IMRC lockouts and avoid the headaches however one question that hasn't been answered is if lockouts are the best option for a daily driver. I've seen the power graphs with no torque loss with lockouts but that's on a dyno at WOT. Driving to and from work every day I get into boost only a couple of times so the low end torque is reasonably important. Anyone running lockouts notice a difference just cruising around town in and out of traffic?

I feel no Difference in my daily driving with the IMRC's locked out. It feels identical to when I had them active. -Anthony

 

[MaskedRacerX]

I'm trying to decide whether to go locked out or not, N/A with 3.31 gear. Any suggestions.

Hmmm, that might be a little sluggish, I've got a PP car, so with manual 3:73s, I don't think I'd have any concerns - plus I drive around at high RPM all the time anyway

I feel no Difference in my daily driving with the IMRC's locked out. It feels identical to when I had them active. -Anthony

Was your car NA or FI?

 

[Velgen]

Hmmm, that might be a little sluggish, I've got a PP car, so with manual 3:73s, I don't think I'd have any concerns - plus I drive around at high RPM all the time anyway




Was your car NA or FI?

FI

 

[DarkestHour]

I have bucking at light throttle, low RPM with them locked out. Other than that it feels better everywhere else to be honest.

 

[gameovergt]

Send me a message about the Y-adapter so that I don't forget. It's easy to miss someone in a 1000 reply thread.

The 2018 manifold has them built into the actuators while the 2015-2017 had them as a separate piece. The mounting points changes do you can't just swap them out. Lund has told a few customers that the voltage doesn't matter but then again once I mentioned it they sent me a update and my CEL went away so maybe I'm wrong or maybe all the tuners at Lund aren't on the same page.

Just got the connectors. Solid build, looks real good. Now I need the 2018 intake which is on nationwide backorder til May. & the Y adapter (waiting on second batch as I'm far down the list). Jason you rock!

 

[Bill88stang]

Gameovergt your going to make the jump to the 18 Intake already? Still haven’t seen what the truck one has done for you yet though.

 

[gameovergt]

Gameovergt your going to make the jump to the 18 Intake already? Still haven’t seen what the truck one has done for you yet though.

Steeda suspension is going on Sunday. Hoping to make it to Gainesville for some runs on the F150. I was able to work some overtime last few weeks so got extra $. If I can run a decent time at the track then might change my mind.

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