Sponsored

10R80 hesitation at 230F

EFI

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2015
Threads
62
Messages
4,819
Reaction score
4,134
Location
Masshole central
Vehicle(s)
5.Br0
I've read alot of your posts about failures and stuff, but I don't think I've seen you mention the converter lock up clutch as the failure point. If I recall correctly, it was the trans that gave you the issue(s). Is this new developing story that the converter lockup clutch is failing? Or could it be that the weak lockup clutch is causing the trans to fail?

Lockup clutch is unfortunately the point of failure of this trans. Unfortunately the lockup clutch is built into the surface of the torque converter instead of being separated.
That would be the main upgrade i would do to the trans.
And 150f. Max? Man...i keep itnthat way!!!!!!! The cooler the better.
Sponsored

 

IrishStallion

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
722
Reaction score
393
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
18 gt mustang
Flyhalf, not to change the subject from A10, but have you done the head cooling mod on your engine??
 
OP
OP
Flyhalf

Flyhalf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Threads
30
Messages
1,529
Reaction score
1,855
Location
CA
Website
www.youtube.com
First Name
Alessandro
Vehicle(s)
Mustang GT 18 10speed auto PP1 , GT500 '21
No it will climb up to 194-203 max. It just performs better between 150-200f.
I've read alot of your posts about failures and stuff, but I don't think I've seen you mention the converter lock up clutch as the failure point. If I recall correctly, it was the trans that gave you the issue(s). Is this new developing story that the converter lockup clutch is failing? Or could it be that the weak lockup clutch is causing the trans to fail?
So this is my third rebuilt/trans
The second one was a torque converter failure. The clutches were actually pretty good. Thanks to the bigger trans cooler.
The first one was a mix of issues including clutches.
This third one is suffering cause i thickered the oil maybe too much (mixing with too much UV from 6r80)
My idea was to hold better at bigger temps. Problem is. Thicker oil = more heat (more friction) and less pass on the filter.
Next upgrade is. Go back to ULV fluid and make a smal hole in the filter.
Also exploring the option to remove the spring controlling thr opening of the cooler lines. To have constant usage of the cooler (right now it opens at 190f)
 
OP
OP
Flyhalf

Flyhalf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Threads
30
Messages
1,529
Reaction score
1,855
Location
CA
Website
www.youtube.com
First Name
Alessandro
Vehicle(s)
Mustang GT 18 10speed auto PP1 , GT500 '21
Flyhalf, not to change the subject from A10, but have you done the head cooling mod on your engine??
Not sure what you mean.
I have bigger radiator and also a water dpray system spraying the coolers and the radiator
 

IrishStallion

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
722
Reaction score
393
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
18 gt mustang
Not sure what you mean.
I have bigger radiator and also a water dpray system spraying the coolers and the radiator
It is where you pop out your freeze plugs out of back of engine to run a T or bypass to get the coolant running back to heat exchanger. Helps keep # 7, 8 cylinders cooler.

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com
 

Sponsored

OP
OP
Flyhalf

Flyhalf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Threads
30
Messages
1,529
Reaction score
1,855
Location
CA
Website
www.youtube.com
First Name
Alessandro
Vehicle(s)
Mustang GT 18 10speed auto PP1 , GT500 '21

IrishStallion

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
722
Reaction score
393
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
18 gt mustang
I dont. So far engine runs strong. Also compression test showed 245psi all 8 cyclinders
Well Dude, after watching video you definitely run your car MUCH harder than mine. It is hard sometimes sorting out the “fear porn” must do’s on internet forums. Everyone says oil pump gears/crank sprocket a must for any FI. Midnight performance just ripped off a 7.9 @ 170 mph on stock sealed gen3 with twin turbo’s. Car has multiple passes on stock gears/sprocket. Lol...
 

ST4NG50

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2020
Threads
0
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Georgia
First Name
Jack
Vehicle(s)
2019 Mustang GT Premium PP1 - 10R80, Ruby Red
I was at Atlanta Motorsports Park last weekend doing an HPDE with Jzilla. I can confirm that switching gears at lower RPM (~6500), or simply just shift gears less frequently, if possible, goes a long way to keep our 10R80s cool. In fact, it keeps my transmission temperature right in the middle of the gauge with little to none hesitation or any overheating issues. The fact that AMP is a slower track than Road Atlanta (and hence fewer shifts are needed) might be big factor, too.

However, for W2W races I think this method would not be very feasible, since we would want to max out the output from our engine? For HPDEs I think this would work just fine if you are willing to sacrifice just a bit of power in exchange for a healthy transmission. :facepalm:

Yes.
1.36 at laguna is with me shifiting very early at 6500
I reached the conclusion that depends also by the pace you have.
At 1.40 wich is still a great time i can go around forever.
New update soon on the trans.
I thinkni know exactly what's wrong this time. Keep u posted.
 
Last edited:

EFI

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2015
Threads
62
Messages
4,819
Reaction score
4,134
Location
Masshole central
Vehicle(s)
5.Br0
The problem with short shifting 1000rpm sooner is that it most likely leads to more shifting than if you were to just wind it out to redline. Upshifting at 6500 then downshifting for the corner vs. just staying in the same gear to 7500.

The question is, what heats it up more. Revving to redline but staying in the same gear, or revving to 6500 but having an extra upshift and downshift.

witching gears at lower RPM (~6500), or simply just shift gears less frequently
 

IrishStallion

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Threads
4
Messages
722
Reaction score
393
Location
Missouri
Vehicle(s)
18 gt mustang
The problem with short shifting 1000rpm sooner is that it most likely leads to more shifting than if you were to just wind it out to redline. Upshifting at 6500 then downshifting for the corner vs. just staying in the same gear to 7500.

The question is, what heats it up more. Revving to redline but staying in the same gear, or revving to 6500 but having an extra upshift and downshift.
I’m guessing the higher rpm shift just creates more heat.
 

Sponsored

zirfj312

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Threads
0
Messages
6
Reaction score
2
Location
Florida
First Name
Jay
Vehicle(s)
2018 Mustang GT
So this is my third rebuilt/trans
The second one was a torque converter failure. The clutches were actually pretty good. Thanks to the bigger trans cooler.
The first one was a mix of issues including clutches.
This third one is suffering cause i thickered the oil maybe too much (mixing with too much UV from 6r80)
My idea was to hold better at bigger temps. Problem is. Thicker oil = more heat (more friction) and less pass on the filter.
Next upgrade is. Go back to ULV fluid and make a smal hole in the filter.
Also exploring the option to remove the spring controlling thr opening of the cooler lines. To have constant usage of the cooler (right now it opens at 190f)
What Setrab cooler are you using for the transmissio?
 
OP
OP
Flyhalf

Flyhalf

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Threads
30
Messages
1,529
Reaction score
1,855
Location
CA
Website
www.youtube.com
First Name
Alessandro
Vehicle(s)
Mustang GT 18 10speed auto PP1 , GT500 '21
925.
In front of everything.
Also some water spray in front.
 

AdrianM1972

Member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Threads
2
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
First Name
Adrian
Vehicle(s)
2017 Mustang GT PP1
Man, I'm so glad I got the 6MT. I added an oil cooler, a Full Tilt Boogie Rear end cooler a 170 deg thermostat with a tune to kick the fans on at 170 and my car stayed cool at all the 2019 Autocross and Track events I went to in FL.
Sponsored

 
 




Top