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10R80 hesitation at 230F

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Flyhalf

Flyhalf

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I do have a bigger cooler(by the way the 10speed has a cooler too the same of the 6r80)
Problem is if you start around 190 to have cooler wroking that it isnnormal reaching 220f.
If you start at 0f +plus the big cooler it will go at 120 max.
Also
And you can see some pics in previous answers
Main other issue is i have cooler in front of radiators. And CHT temp sometime suffered (after ducting it is less)
If inhave a bypass for the trans i can reduce the size of the trans cooler improving the flow to the radiator.
I will for sure implement with a bypass once it is available :)
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ST4NG50

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Hi Flyhalf, I know this thread is getting a bit old, but during my last event at Road Atlanta I ran into the exact same problem! Here's what happened:

Transmission temperature was a bit high, around 5/8 according to the factory gauge, and with the paddle shifter I cannot upshift properly. The transmssion was hesitating/slipping to upshift with wide-open throttle. I tried to keep driving with it (not pushing it hard at all) for one more lap, but eventually some blue/white smoke came out on the track and I decided to call it a day. The transmission seems to have no such problem on the public road, but I'm afraid the same thing happens on future track days.

Do I also have a torque converter (clutch) problem? My pony is currently at 26,000 miles (2019) so I believe I can bring it to the dealer for a fix? Could you recommend some strategies to deal with the dealer and convince them to fix the problem? I'm young and an international student :)
 
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Unfprtunately it won't get better. The faster u get the more issue you will have
The smoke if coming from the left of the car is probably the breather of the trans (coes the fluid got hot and expanded.
I'm now at my third rebuilt/new trasmission. I upgraded clutches few weeks ago ( so not sure they working better)
Also putting a little thicker oil (LV mixed with ULV)
And if i survive Sonoma this WE next thing will be to remove the spring that controls the cooler flow. Removing it will have a continuous flow to the cooler.
This should help too.
We will see :)
A bigger cooler can help.
My advice.
Go to the dealership. Bring some donuts. Make friends. And tell them that while you were doing some hills driving u had this hesitation.
Feel free to PM me
Best way.
Here the link.

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Alex
 

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230 is way to hot take it to the dealer, get it fixed under warranty.
 

ST4NG50

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Unfprtunately it won't get better. The faster u get the more issue you will have
The smoke if coming from the left of the car is probably the breather of the trans (coes the fluid got hot and expanded.
I'm now at my third rebuilt/new trasmission. I upgraded clutches few weeks ago ( so not sure they working better)
Also putting a little thicker oil (LV mixed with ULV)
And if i survive Sonoma this WE next thing will be to remove the spring that controls the cooler flow. Removing it will have a continuous flow to the cooler.
This should help too.
We will see :)
A bigger cooler can help.
My advice.
Go to the dealership. Bring some donuts. Make friends. And tell them that while you were doing some hills driving u had this hesitation.
Feel free to PM me
Best way.
Here the link.

My IG

Alex
Wow, I spent the last 40 minutes studying this thread and your story at the other forum. Seems like you are indeed one of the few pioneers on the quest to keep the 10R80 cool at the track :) Keep us posted! Would love to know what works best. A bit surprised to find that there are no built upgrades to put on though. Hope to see more 10-speed on the track!
 

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Flyhalf

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230 is way to hot take it to the dealer, get it fixed under warranty.
Can happen at the track.
But our 10speed is not meant for 230f.
So sad.
Would have been a great option with the right stuff (first thing i would have done better. The pan. A full metal
Wow, I spent the last 40 minutes studying this thread and your story at the other forum. Seems like you are indeed one of the few pioneers on the quest to keep the 10R80 cool at the track :) Keep us posted! Would love to know what works best. A bit surprised to find that there are no built upgrades to put on though. Hope to see more 10-speed on the track!
Im so pissed with ford.
We could have a great thing on the 10speed. But they came short with bunch of stuff.
The reason why i don't give up om top of pride.. is..the combo btw me and her. We are fast together.
I feel it.
But if i had to do it again.
I would have bought a camaro ss 1le.
Way faster out of the box(like a 350). And Cheap.
Here a lap at laguna with the 10speed.This is same laptime of the 350R with randy pobst

 
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@Flyhalf have you tried short shifting earlier and also staying in higher gear more to try and reduce heat?
Yes.
1.36 at laguna is with me shifiting very early at 6500
I reached the conclusion that depends also by the pace you have.
At 1.40 wich is still a great time i can go around forever.
New update soon on the trans.
I thinkni know exactly what's wrong this time. Keep u posted.
 

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So it's really a matter of how you drive it.

It seems it can handle light-medium track duty just fine, but it ain't no dedicated race car for serious drivers. Which makes sense, I don't think Ford every intended for this vehicle combo to be taken out there for 20-25 minutes by very good drivers pushing it 9.5/10 and expect it to last.


I reached the conclusion that depends also by the pace you have.
At 1.40 wich is still a great time i can go around forever.
 
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IrishStallion

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Subscribed. Curious what spring you are talking about in the trans cooler? Is it easy to get to?

My major compliant is less about over heating, but why the A10 takes forever to warm up to 150 degrees? Cooler days sometimes 25-30 minutes. wtf?
 

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Takes my 6r80 about 20 minutes to get to normal operating temp...170 degrees.
 

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The A10 is quite different than the previous automatics. For one, it only uses the unlocked torque converter in 1st gear to move the vehicle from a stop, then it locks the rest of the way through the gears. A locked converter produces significantly less heat than an unlocked one, so the more it operates that way the cooler it stays. This is done for efficiency and staying cool, which moves onto the second point of the type of fluid it uses. The ultra low viscosity fluid doesn't need as much heat it in to work properly, so it doesn't need to heatup as quickly as before.

The old days of unlocked converters, thick fluid and high operating temps are gone.

My major compliant is less about over heating, but why the A10 takes forever to warm up to 150 degrees? Cooler days sometimes 25-30 minutes. wtf?
 

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The A10 is quite different than the previous automatics. For one, it only uses the unlocked torque converter in 1st gear to move the vehicle from a stop, then it locks the rest of the way through the gears. A locked converter produces significantly less heat than an unlocked one, so the more it operates that way the cooler it stays. This is done for efficiency and staying cool, which moves onto the second point of the type of fluid it uses. The ultra low viscosity fluid doesn't need as much heat it in to work properly, so it doesn't need to heatup as quickly as before.

The old days of unlocked converters, thick fluid and high operating temps are gone.
Thanks for info. But, waiting 1/2 an hour before you can/should get on the car sucks. The drag mode definitely hits harder once over 150.
 
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The A10 is quite different than the previous automatics. For one, it only uses the unlocked torque converter in 1st gear to move the vehicle from a stop, then it locks the rest of the way through the gears. A locked converter produces significantly less heat than an unlocked one, so the more it operates that way the cooler it stays. This is done for efficiency and staying cool, which moves onto the second point of the type of fluid it uses. The ultra low viscosity fluid doesn't need as much heat it in to work properly, so it doesn't need to heatup as quickly as before.

The old days of unlocked converters, thick fluid and high operating temps are gone.
Lockup clutch is unfortunately the point of failure of this trans. Unfortunately the lockup clutch is built into the surface of the torque converter instead of being separated.
That would be the main upgrade i would do to the trans.
And 150f. Max? Man...i keep itnthat way!!!!!!! The cooler the better.
 

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No it will climb up to 194-203 max. It just performs better between 150-200f.
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