10 speed acting jerky

[blixe]

Hello I have a 2019 gt 10 speed with 70k miles I have this weird hesitation on a cold start drive I let it warm up and still does it around 4-5 gear I believe it does like a rev and then it won’t go and take a sec and then catch the gear I only have long tube header and I change the transmission fluid at 60k right when I got the car

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[Blueflash]

What is the transmission fluid temperature when this happens? The A10 can be temperamental until it's up to temperature

 

[SCP440]

Clear the learns on the transmission and go through the learn process.

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

70 k is very good for longevity, did you check the fluid level per Fords recommendation after changing. Other 2 posts are suggestions to try

 

[allfivefifty]

Hey, I don't own a 10R80, but i have heard from anecdotal evidence that the clutch packs wear out on these. Since you got yours used, check what the symptoms are for worn out clutch packs. They seem to match what your are experiencing.

Here is an AI chat bot excerpt:
Worn clutches in the Ford 10R80 10-speed transmission often manifest as erratic shifting behavior long before the transmission fails completely. Because this unit relies on a complex sequence of clutch applications to achieve 10 speeds, even minor wear in a specific clutch pack (like the "F" clutch or the "CDF" drum clutches) can cause very specific symptoms.
Here are the primary symptoms of worn or failing clutches in a 10R80:
1. Slipping and "Shift Flare"
The most definitive sign of worn friction material.
RPM Spike: You will notice the engine RPMs rise quickly (flare) during a gear change, but the vehicle doesn’t accelerate. This typically happens between 1st–3rd or 3rd–5th gear.
Neutral-out: In severe cases, the transmission may feel like it has shifted into neutral momentarily before "slamming" into the next gear once the clutch finally grabs.
2. Harsh "Bang" or Jerky Shifts
When clutches are worn or the drums they sit in are grooved, the hydraulic timing is thrown off.
Engagement Thud: A violent "clunk" or "bang" when the transmission finally engages a gear.
Erratic Shifting: The truck may lurch forward or feel like it’s being hit from behind during acceleration or deceleration (especially common in 3rd, 5th, and 8th gears).
3. Delayed Engagement
If the internal clutch seals are leaking or the clutch packs are excessively worn:
Park to Drive/Reverse: You might shift into gear and wait 2–5 seconds before the transmission actually engages.
Cold Start Issues: These delays are often significantly worse when the transmission fluid is cold.
4. Torque Converter Shudder
While technically the torque converter clutch (TCC), this is a "clutch" failure that feels like:
Rumble Strip Sensation: A vibration or shudder between 35–55 mph, similar to driving over rumble strips.
Constant Fluctuations: You may see the tachometer needle bounce slightly while maintaining a steady cruising speed.
5. Burnt Fluid and Debris
If you pull the transmission dipstick (which is short and located on the side of the transmission case near the exhaust) or drop the pan:
Dark/Black Fluid: 10R80 fluid (Mercon ULV) should be light pink/red. If it is dark and smells like burnt toast, the clutch material is literally burning off.
Metal/Friction Material in Pan: Fine "sludge" or "glitter" in the bottom of the pan is a sign that clutch plates or the CDF drum sleeve have moved and are grinding.
Root Causes to Note
In the 10R80, "worn clutches" are often a symptom of a deeper mechanical flaw:
The CDF Drum Sleeve: A common defect where an internal sleeve slides out of place, blocking oil flow to the clutches, which causes them to starve of pressure and burn out.
Valve Body Wear: If the valves stick, they can’t apply the clutches smoothly, leading to the "hammering" effect that wears the clutches prematurely.
Pro Tip: If you're experiencing these issues, check for a "Wrench Icon" or "Check Engine" light. Codes like P0751 (Solenoid A Performance) or P0741 (TCC Slipping) are common indicators that the clutches aren't holding pressure.
How many miles are on the vehicle, and does the shifting issue happen more when the engine is hot or cold?

 

[blixe]

Tb

this was at 60k miles I got a Lund tune but I feel like the shifts are worst then before

 

[blixe]

Hey, I don't own a 10R80, but i have heard from anecdotal evidence that the clutch packs wear out on these. Since you got yours used, check what the symptoms are for worn out clutch packs. They seem to match what your are experiencing.

Here is an AI chat bot excerpt:
Worn clutches in the Ford 10R80 10-speed transmission often manifest as erratic shifting behavior long before the transmission fails completely. Because this unit relies on a complex sequence of clutch applications to achieve 10 speeds, even minor wear in a specific clutch pack (like the "F" clutch or the "CDF" drum clutches) can cause very specific symptoms.
Here are the primary symptoms of worn or failing clutches in a 10R80:
1. Slipping and "Shift Flare"
The most definitive sign of worn friction material.
RPM Spike: You will notice the engine RPMs rise quickly (flare) during a gear change, but the vehicle doesn’t accelerate. This typically happens between 1st–3rd or 3rd–5th gear.
Neutral-out: In severe cases, the transmission may feel like it has shifted into neutral momentarily before "slamming" into the next gear once the clutch finally grabs.
2. Harsh "Bang" or Jerky Shifts
When clutches are worn or the drums they sit in are grooved, the hydraulic timing is thrown off.
Engagement Thud: A violent "clunk" or "bang" when the transmission finally engages a gear.
Erratic Shifting: The truck may lurch forward or feel like it’s being hit from behind during acceleration or deceleration (especially common in 3rd, 5th, and 8th gears).
3. Delayed Engagement
If the internal clutch seals are leaking or the clutch packs are excessively worn:
Park to Drive/Reverse: You might shift into gear and wait 2–5 seconds before the transmission actually engages.
Cold Start Issues: These delays are often significantly worse when the transmission fluid is cold.
4. Torque Converter Shudder
While technically the torque converter clutch (TCC), this is a "clutch" failure that feels like:
Rumble Strip Sensation: A vibration or shudder between 35–55 mph, similar to driving over rumble strips.
Constant Fluctuations: You may see the tachometer needle bounce slightly while maintaining a steady cruising speed.
5. Burnt Fluid and Debris
If you pull the transmission dipstick (which is short and located on the side of the transmission case near the exhaust) or drop the pan:
Dark/Black Fluid: 10R80 fluid (Mercon ULV) should be light pink/red. If it is dark and smells like burnt toast, the clutch material is literally burning off.
Metal/Friction Material in Pan: Fine "sludge" or "glitter" in the bottom of the pan is a sign that clutch plates or the CDF drum sleeve have moved and are grinding.
Root Causes to Note
In the 10R80, "worn clutches" are often a symptom of a deeper mechanical flaw:
The CDF Drum Sleeve: A common defect where an internal sleeve slides out of place, blocking oil flow to the clutches, which causes them to starve of pressure and burn out.
Valve Body Wear: If the valves stick, they can’t apply the clutches smoothly, leading to the "hammering" effect that wears the clutches prematurely.
Pro Tip: If you're experiencing these issues, check for a "Wrench Icon" or "Check Engine" light. Codes like P0751 (Solenoid A Performance) or P0741 (TCC Slipping) are common indicators that the clutches aren't holding pressure.
How many miles are on the vehicle, and does the shifting issue happen more when the engine is hot or cold?

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