Stalled - GT PP

RUN RICH · Dec 2, 2015

Without warning my car stalled while in neutral, off clutch and on the brake. Car is bone stock.

Didn't even notice it till I pressed the clutch and noticed something wasn't right.

Cluster read Run Power Active. Stereo was still playing and everything was fine other than the engine wasn't on.

As I restarted it half of the Sync screen went black while the other half showed the usual phone in the top left corner and music down below. Never has that happened either.

As I pulled into my garage the fumes smelled pretty stink. Almost like a burning smell but WTF could be burning. Also, there were very slight popping sounds coming from the exhaust that was resonating through the stock shifter. Very slight sounds but I'm used to hearing exhaust crackle but that it was odd.

I plugged my code reader and no DTC's. All system read ready. There was no CEL to begin with.

Took it for a spirited run. Took it up to 6500 a few times. Everything is fine.

Pulled into a coin wash and it smelled again like that burnt smell but quickly went away.

Could it be bad gas causing this smell? I run 91 since new. Voltage seems slightly lower than normal but it's also getting colder.

I used to have another car (2ZZ-GE engine code) that did this. It was the IAC that needed cleaning. I cleaned it every three months with Sea Foam deep creep along with some MAF cleaner for the MAF sensor. It always worked well but as long as I kept up with it.

Any ideas?

IvanCRF · Dec 2, 2015

Similar to this?

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32069

RUN RICH · Dec 3, 2015

IvanCRF said:
Similar to this?

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32069

Yes but it only happened once and I don't believe it happened on deceleration. It was while I was sitting.

I'm due for my first oil change so I'll mention it while keeping an eye on it.

My money is on the IAC.

RUN RICH · Dec 3, 2015

38 degrees F out.
Inlet temp at 57 F
A/F spot on @ 13.9-14.1
A/F off the gas goes strait to 20.0
A/F off the gas and strait into neutral while coasting is 12.9-13.3 and bounces but seems fine.
Voltage @ 13.0V

Drove it relatively the same way I did last night and jumped out at my destination. No smell from the exhaust what so ever.
Idle is scissor sharp.

I still think it's the IAC. That Bastard is known to do fickle intermittent stuff like this.

jasonstang · Dec 3, 2015

Maybe water vapor got sucked into the intake and coated the filter and froze due to low temp causing the engine to stall?

RUN RICH · Dec 4, 2015

So I'm not the only one with this issue.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17972&page=6

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18115&highlight=Low+voltage

RUN RICH · Dec 4, 2015

On a side note my voltage is back up to a consistent 14 volts.

Chameleon · Dec 4, 2015

This has happened to me and a few members. Seems like a fluke occurrence.

Driversound · Dec 4, 2015

Happened to me 3 or 4 times. I have it posted in the "engine dies randomly" thread. Currently there is no solution as it is hard to duplicate and happens whenever but all we have in common is that it happens in Neutral.

Waldorf · Dec 4, 2015

RUN RICH said:
I used to have another car (2ZZ-GE engine code) that did this. It was the IAC that needed cleaning. I cleaned it every three months with Sea Foam deep creep along with some MAF cleaner for the MAF sensor. It always worked well but as long as I kept up with it.

Any ideas?

Unless I'm mistaken, there is no IAC on the Coyotes. I also have a pushrod 5.oh that needs cleaning from time to time, but it has a throttle cable, hence the IAC. When off the pedal, the throttle plate is completely closed. Idle air passes through the IAC, is monitored and adjusted to keep the idle constant. The Coyotes are drive by wire. Haven't had the air intake tube off my 2016 yet. I believe that the servo motor that controls the movement of the throttle plate leaves it cracked at idle, just like a carburetor. The computer keeps the idle constant by adjusting the servo slightly, which moves the throttle plate to maintain a constant idle. Could be at idle or off the pedal on decel, it's fully closing. No intake air = stall. Just a WAG though.

Going to check mine in the morning. PP manual and haven't had this occur... yet. 3.7k on the clock in 60 days of driving, mixed freeway, rural highway, and city.

MAF sensors will sometimes get a coating of oil from an oiled air filter... will make the engine run lean. Those that have them: a) when cleaning and re-oiling, don't get carried away with the oil, and b) let it set overnight wrapped in an old towel to remove any excess.

Is any one having this problem using an oil separator like a JLT, Steeda, etc., or just the stock PVC setup?

Just trying to "explore the possibilities". Another addition to the list of things for me to beware of. Thanks guys!

That is all...

Cascadia_302 · Dec 7, 2015

RUN RICH said:
Without warning my car stalled while in neutral, off clutch and on the brake. Car is bone stock.

Didn't even notice it till I pressed the clutch and noticed something wasn't right.

Cluster read Run Power Active. Stereo was still playing and everything was fine other than the engine wasn't on.

As I restarted it half of the Sync screen went black while the other half showed the usual phone in the top left corner and music down below. Never has that happened either.

As I pulled into my garage the fumes smelled pretty stink. Almost like a burning smell but WTF could be burning. Also, there were very slight popping sounds coming from the exhaust that was resonating through the stock shifter. Very slight sounds but I'm used to hearing exhaust crackle but that it was odd.

I plugged my code reader and no DTC's. All system read ready. There was no CEL to begin with.

Took it for a spirited run. Took it up to 6500 a few times. Everything is fine.

Pulled into a coin wash and it smelled again like that burnt smell but quickly went away.

Could it be bad gas causing this smell? I run 91 since new. Voltage seems slightly lower than normal but it's also getting colder.

I used to have another car (2ZZ-GE engine code) that did this. It was the IAC that needed cleaning. I cleaned it every three months with Sea Foam deep creep along with some MAF cleaner for the MAF sensor. It always worked well but as long as I kept up with it.

Any ideas?

Mine did something similar, I was coming to a stop preparing to make a LHT. The car re-started but I could smell something nasty coming from the exhaust. I didn't notice if it indicated the PRA as I was in a hurry to get the car out of the intersection. Only did it the one time but I still took it into the dealership but they didn't find or see anything wrong.
I chalked it up to bad gas, but really don't know for certain. I haven't been back to that filling station (Arco) since and no re-occurane since.:shrug:

RUN RICH · Dec 7, 2015

Waldorf said:
Unless I'm mistaken, there is no IAC on the Coyotes. I also have a pushrod 5.oh that needs cleaning from time to time, but it has a throttle cable, hence the IAC. When off the pedal, the throttle plate is completely closed. Idle air passes through the IAC, is monitored and adjusted to keep the idle constant. The Coyotes are drive by wire. Haven't had the air intake tube off my 2016 yet. I believe that the servo motor that controls the movement of the throttle plate leaves it cracked at idle, just like a carburetor. The computer keeps the idle constant by adjusting the servo slightly, which moves the throttle plate to maintain a constant idle. Could be at idle or off the pedal on decel, it's fully closing. No intake air = stall. Just a WAG though.

Going to check mine in the morning. PP manual and haven't had this occur... yet. 3.7k on the clock in 60 days of driving, mixed freeway, rural highway, and city.

MAF sensors will sometimes get a coating of oil from an oiled air filter... will make the engine run lean. Those that have them: a) when cleaning and re-oiling, don't get carried away with the oil, and b) let it set overnight wrapped in an old towel to remove any excess.

Is any one having this problem using an oil separator like a JLT, Steeda, etc., or just the stock PVC setup?

Just trying to "explore the possibilities". Another addition to the list of things for me to beware of. Thanks guys!

That is all...

Thanks for clarifying the possibility of an IAC going bad. Now that I think of it you're absolutely right. I don't know much about these motors yet and my frustrated brain is trying to correlate this problem with my previous experiences. Now I'm really stumped.

Either way this fault has not replicated itself. I don't like the idea of it happening at all but there's no way to replicate it. My car runs fine, pulls hard and idles sharp and consistent.

It maybe bad gas but I would suspect it happening for duration of the gas being in the tank. That wasn't the case.

I PM'd Ford Service on this board but nothing yet. I'd like this documented but believed I have to live with it for now and satisfied that this isn't a reoccurring fault.

Waldorf · Dec 7, 2015

RUN RICH said:
Thanks for clarifying the possibility of an IAC going bad. Now that I think of it you're absolutely right. I don't know much about these motors yet and my frustrated brain is trying to correlate this problem with my previous experiences. Now I'm really stumped.

Either way this fault has not replicated itself. I don't like the idea of it happening at all but there's no way to replicate it. My car runs fine, pulls hard and idles sharp and consistent.

It maybe bad gas but I would suspect it happening for duration of the gas being in the tank. That wasn't the case.

I PM'd Ford Service on this board but nothing yet. I'd like this documented but believed I have to live with it for now and satisfied that this isn't a reoccurring fault.

I STILL haven't had the intake tube off... spent "car time" this weekend installing a shifter. Methinks it's either the throttle plate getting sucked shut on a hard decel, or maybe oil coming through the PVC valve. UNLESS there are some "ify" throttle body servos out there. On hard accel, vacuum goes to squat. Pull up on the pedal, and mine slams to 20 inches. My only experience with servos is in robotics, and they have physical shaft brakes as well as computer indexing. Don't know about the throttle body servos though. Took mine out yesterday morning early and wound it up to 6500 in 3rd and just popped off the gas. Let it come to a stop leaving it in 3rd, and all is fine.

Tried looking on Tasca and Levittown Ford for a price on the servo. All they list is a throttle body with no pic, and it's ~$73.00. That tells me its just the machined casting with no servo. Curious about the price of the servo.

Sure wish somebody had the answer, but until then, I'm watching mighty close.

Best of Luck!
That is all...

RUN RICH · Dec 8, 2015

Thanks Waldorf.

I'm reaching far and wide on this one and have received some feed back.

Ive been told it's a throttle body issue - known to Ford with no fix as of yet.

It's never happened again and the sulfur smell isn't as present as before.

Waldorf · Dec 9, 2015

RUN RICH said:
Thanks Waldorf.

I'm reaching far and wide on this one and have received some feed back.

Ive been told it's a throttle body issue - known to Ford with no fix as of yet.

It's never happened again and the sulfur smell isn't as present as before.

Gee... "known to Ford with no fix as of yet." Where have I heard that before? Might have been from Ford on other issues?

I recall that in one of the linked threads, someone had a TB replaced, and said no more problems. Can't help but wonder though. I'm still stall free (fingers crossed). Thanks for the info!

That is all...

Stalled - GT PP

RUN RICH

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IvanCRF

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RUN RICH

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RUN RICH

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jasonstang

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RUN RICH

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RUN RICH

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Chameleon

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Driversound

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Waldorf

Old School

Cascadia_302

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RUN RICH

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Waldorf

Old School

RUN RICH

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Waldorf

Old School

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