PMAS Intake Systems from UPR Products. TUNE AND NO TUNE INTAKES

Installed my no tune PMAS this morning and put about 120 miles on it since. I'm very impressed with the intake. Everything arrived in good shape in the box and I had no problems getting it together. It looks great and I can tell a slight difference in the car. Can't really hear much sound change but I'm in a vert with a Borla S type cat back.
I was very impressed with the a solutely stock driveability. No hesitation, stumble, hiccups, rough idle, part throttle surge. It just ran like it should. Car is just a tad more willing to rev up high and very noticeable throttle response. Car feels stronger from 4,000-5,000 rpm is the most noticeable place to me and my FM road driving.
I'm a very happy customer. If anyone is on the fence it really is a nice intake that actually lives up to its honest claims

If im going to buy a lund tune in two months, and want to buy the pmas intake, should i buy the non tune version now or just wait and buy the tune version with the lund tune later? Is there really a difference between the non tune and the tuned version when have a tune? Thanks

seifrefai said:

If im going to buy a lund tune in two months, and want to buy the pmas intake, should i buy the non tune version now or just wait and buy the tune version with the lund tune later? Is there really a difference between the non tune and the tuned version when have a tune? Thanks

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Interesting read from Lethal which may help make up your mind

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60847

seifrefai said:

If im going to buy a lund tune in two months, and want to buy the pmas intake, should i buy the non tune version now or just wait and buy the tune version with the lund tune later? Is there really a difference between the non tune and the tuned version when have a tune? Thanks

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you have a v6?

Wanted to add that I live in coastal Texas and even in high humidity with ambient temps up to 100 my intake air temps have not exceeded 8 degrees above ambient. I installed mine where the MAF is in the box and kind of facing up and forward.

seifrefai said:

If im going to buy a lund tune in two months, and want to buy the pmas intake, should i buy the non tune version now or just wait and buy the tune version with the lund tune later? Is there really a difference between the non tune and the tuned version when have a tune? Thanks

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If I'd be in your shoes I'd go with tuned version for you will utilize stock maf sensor that will save you $100 versus no tune version so you can purchase Lund tune for $100 less which in the end will yield more noticeable power gains vs no tune intake

MrWolf said:

Interesting read from Lethal which may help make up your mind

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60847

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Yup, I forgot to attach a link to Derek's thread which is the best source of the most reliable info based on real life test results up to date i think, so two thumbs up for mr.wolf for bringing this up.

Also, kudos to Derek at lethal for doing great comparison of all the intakes :cheers:

Kuba said:

Yup, I forgot to attach a link to Derek's thread which is the best source of the most reliable info based on real life test results up to date i think, so two thumbs up for mr.wolf for bringing this up.

Also, kudos to Derek at lethal for doing great comparison of all the intakes :cheers:

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Derek provided a good track test. But there's good dyno testing and engineering explanation in this thread.

They're the same intake, and the same MAF. Power potential is the same. FWIW

dev1360 said:

They're the same intake, and the same MAF. Power potential is the same. FWIW

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[MENTION=19646]dev1360[/MENTION]
Not sure if you're referring to my earlier post but if I'm not mistaken, yes both intakes are the same however maf sensors aren't the same. No tune version comes with pmas calibrated maf and tuned one uses stock maf. I'm sure that tuned version of pmas will yield more hp vs. no tune since you have to use third party tune instead of stock tune. Correct me if I'm wrong in case i missed something.

Hi there


So I have a collection of parts to fit to my car that I cannot fit because its still with Ford:





- Black 5.0 badges (not fitting, just contemplating the idea)
- BOSS 302 chain tensioners, more reliable for 8000+ RPM, though my rev limit is set at 7500rpm, but for money they are good insurance.
- Steeda RHD strut tower brace
- PMAS "no tune" CAI



PMAS CAI modifications I shall make!


My current intake setup is the stock intake with the front grill opened up, velossa big mount to direct/force outside air into stock air box (RAM AIR), Afe Dry Pro panel filter, Airaid modular intake tube with sound tube capped off. So I did everything possible on the stock intake to make it best as possible, which worked as throttle response improved and my IAT's at highway cruise maintain within 2c of ambient outside temperature (all temps reported by car) and even in city traffic they are normally with 3-5c of outside ambient. As such my car with JDM tune went from 415BHP upto 440BHP, so the tune gave me a further additional 25BHP peak and 20lb/ft peak but with great gains elsewhere, torque was the biggest gains down low of around 40lbft.

As the PMAS has proven gains both on the dyno and at the track I am hopeful this intake will take me over 450 peak horsepower with some further sizeable gains down low.


I do plan to make some modifications to the PMAS however to further improve it but without sacrificing flow:

- Maintain velossa big mouth to direct more colder air flow towards PMAS CAI.
- Wrap the aluminium tube and maf sensor (only external part of maf sensor) on gold heat reflective wrap to stop the tube from heatsoaking. I understand why PMAS chose this design as it flows better and there is no tolerance loss in cylindrical size, so maf diameter is absolutely spot on.
- Wrap the external part of the air box, especially hot engine side in lava mat, which again prevents heat soak.
- Remove the cold air duct from stock air box and duct tape it to the stock ducting coming from the grill area so that it presses up to the opening on the PMAS CAI air box, to direct and force more cold air to filter, again causing RAM air effect and much cooler air, in theory this should actually increase flow as well as reducing IAT's.


I got the gold reflecting tape from Ebay for £14.99 delivered for a 2"x15 feet roll and the lava matt was £30 for 12x24" piece which should cover all of the hot side of the air box shroud.


Once installed I can comment on IAT's compared to the IAT's with my improved stock air box setup and I shall also re-run on same dyno and compare the power graph to my previous run on stock intake (440BHP) and report back.

Unfortunately though I would like to have this all done for this weekend, until Ford repair my car I cannot give a time for when I can report back on this. :(

If this takes me over 450BHP, I am confident with headers I can crack 500 horsepower at the crank or get very close to it. Then I shall probably go down the GT 350 IM route if the headers give great torque gains down low as they should offset the low-down torque loss of the GT 350 IM, but I shall only set my limiter to 7500rpm, I would rather only rev my engine to what its internals were designed too, anything higher is beyond what Ford designed for the Coyote with its current internal setup, though many many guys in the US are revving to 8k plus without issue.

boardkat said:

what is the S&B filter part number? trying to determine how much oil to use after cleaning.

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for everybody's future reference, the filter is made custom for PMAS with a part number of PMAS300. per S&B, 54g of oil on the main filter element and 7g on the powerstack is required.

boardkat said:

for everybody's future reference, the filter is made custom for PMAS with a part number of PMAS300. per S&B, 54g of oil on the main filter element and 7g on the powerstack is required.

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Thanks broadkat, great addition to this thread, much appreciated

Kuba said:

Thanks broadkat, great addition to this thread, much appreciated

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no prob. one additional thing that i found out on my own that may save others time and money: there is no functional difference between the red and blue oil other than coloring additive, which is added to make it easier to see it bleed into the cotton filter after cleaning, ensuring full coverage. at this time, i was able to source the red oil cheaper, which is what motivated me to investigate in the first place.

Is anyone ever going to provide logging data of all these "proven" dyno runs?