Spark Plugs - Please Read

wmsky33 said:

2 reasons:

First, online spark plug databases suck. You'd think that since the 2015 EB Mustang is so popular and that it's been out for what, a year now, spark plug databases would have added it by now. But no, many brands of spark plugs have not been added. I've noticed this with other cars as well. A car usually has to be around for 2-3 years before the spark plug databases catch up.

Second, because neither the NGK 6510 or the Denso ITV22 is a replacement for the factory plug. When you do a search on any website for plugs for the 2015 EB Mustang, the equivalent of the factory plug would be the NGK 6509 and the Denso ITV20. Both the 6510 and ITV22 are 1 step colder than the factory plug and so won't show up as the right plug for the car.

The guys in this thread know what they're talking about, especially Adam from MAPerformance. If you do any reading on this forum, you will see that MAPerformance doesn't just blindly make mods to the EB Mustang. They test *everything*. Just look at the OP. If Adam says NGK 6510 and Denso ITV22, then they will work.

I personally am using ITV20TT, which is stock heat range, simply because I wanted to try the new Denso TT plugs and they don't yet make them any colder. If they made a Denso ITV22TT, I would use that instead.

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Exactly, and I appreciate the kind words!

wmsky33 said:

2 reasons:

First, online spark plug databases suck. You'd think that since the 2015 EB Mustang is so popular and that it's been out for what, a year now, spark plug databases would have added it by now. But no, many brands of spark plugs have not been added. I've noticed this with other cars as well. A car usually has to be around for 2-3 years before the spark plug databases catch up.

Second, because neither the NGK 6510 or the Denso ITV22 is a replacement for the factory plug. When you do a search on any website for plugs for the 2015 EB Mustang, the equivalent of the factory plug would be the NGK 6509 and the Denso ITV20. Both the 6510 and ITV22 are 1 step colder than the factory plug and so won't show up as the right plug for the car.

The guys in this thread know what they're talking about, especially Adam from MAPerformance. If you do any reading on this forum, you will see that MAPerformance doesn't just blindly make mods to the EB Mustang. They test *everything*. Just look at the OP. If Adam says NGK 6510 and Denso ITV22, then they will work.

I personally am using ITV20TT, which is stock heat range, simply because I wanted to try the new Denso TT plugs and they don't yet make them any colder. If they made a Denso ITV22TT, I would use that instead.

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Those first two paragraphs were exactly the reasoning I was looking for! I myself caught a glimpse of that when I went to NGK's site and the latest model builds they had were from 2011? Figured something was off.

HOWEVER, that third paragraph is the reason I already have my order on the way before having heard back. Trust me, after going through most of the threads before making an account and seeing the depth that goes into the work these guys put out... I don't have any doubt. Just needed a thorough explanation because I'm the kind of curious person that needs to know EVERYTHING. ;)

I just put a cat back system on and will be getting my accessport tomorrow in the mail. Am I safe to use the factory plugs for a bit with the tune and exhaust, or do I need to swap out the plugs first?

Smarz1018 said:

I just put a cat back system on and will be getting my accessport tomorrow in the mail. Am I safe to use the factory plugs for a bit with the tune and exhaust, or do I need to swap out the plugs first?

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It's a low cost insurance, I would just snag up a set of plugs and toss them in. You can re-gap the factory plugs for now but they have been known to crack and cause significant damage.

http://www.maperformance.com/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug-mazdaspeed3-set-of-4.html

Okay so i picked up a set of DENSO ITV22 plugs at my local auto store, i gapped them all at around .26-.28, However on one of them the very top of the pointed tip on the electrode broke off, i then closed the gap to keep it at the same gap as the other 3. I just want to make sure i won't have any problem with the plug. Most plugs I've dealt with don't come to a fine point like these. Im thinking it shouldn't be a big deal but some opinions and advice would be appreciated, thank you.

It sucks but you need to buy a new plug. That electrode it's where the spark starts. There's no telling how badly damaged the plug is or how it's going to perform inside the engine. A new plug is pretty cheap insurance and peace of mind. The tip you are talking about is an iridium rhodium alloy which is incredibly hard but also very brittle, so you have to be very careful when gapping these kinds of plugs and never put more than the slightest pressure on them.

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hmm okay appreciate that info, i kind of regret even touching the gap on them because they were all around .28 and .30 to begin with, think im going to just pickup a new set and leave them as is out of the box and just check the gap. My accessport comes today in the mail, should i be okay to run the stage 1 map with stock plugs for a couple days until i get a net set of ITV22's?

Smarz1018 said:

hmm okay appreciate that info, i kind of regret even touching the gap on them because they were all around .28 and .30 to begin with, think im going to just pickup a new set and leave them as is out of the box and just check the gap. My accessport comes today in the mail, should i be okay to run the stage 1 map with stock plugs for a couple days until i get a net set of ITV22's?

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I would say yes except for the quote below by Adam of MAPerformance. If the factory plugs have a chance to crack when running a tune, then I would just wait on the tune until you've replaced them. As for the plugs, if you feel that the other plugs are good, just replace the broken one.

MAPerformance said:

It's a low cost insurance, I would just snag up a set of plugs and toss them in. You can re-gap the factory plugs for now but they have been known to crack and cause significant damage.

http://www.maperformance.com/ngk-iridium-ix-spark-plug-mazdaspeed3-set-of-4.html

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You can gap fine wire plugs. I do it all the time. You just have to be careful never to put pressure on the center electrode. When checking the gap, never force the gauge through the gap. A little bit of drag is OK, but don't ever use heavy pressure.

I always use a simple tool to gap the plugs. Here's a link to a great video showing the tool in use; [ame="[MEDIA=youtube]q0cl_YrfjMc[/MEDIA]"] Specifically at 0:30 it shows the tool being used to both open and close the gap. Notice that you can see air between the tool and the center electrode at all times.

In the video, he uses feeler gauges for checking the gap. You can do that. Feeler gauges give you the capability of many more different measurements than wire gauges. However, for the EB Mustang, I found that this tool (it's the one I use), http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODE0M, can do both jobs pretty well. It has the gap adjusting tool, and the wire gauges it includes are 0.020, 0.025, 0.028, 0.030, 0.032, 0.034, 0.035, 0.040. The 0.025, 0.028, and 0.030 pretty well cover the gaps we use for the EB engine.

wmsky33 said:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODE0M, can do both jobs pretty well. It has the gapping tool, and the wire gauges it includes are 0.020, 0.025, 0.028, 0.030, 0.032, 0.034, 0.035, 0.040. The 0.025, 0.028, and 0.030 pretty well cover the gaps we use for the EB engine.

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Thanks for video tutor.

Ordered the plugs yesterday. Getting ready to install!

Just fyi,

The correct torque spec for installing the NGK and Denso plugs is 7-15 ft lbs.

(Tapered, 14mm threads, aluminum head)

I had a hell of a time closing the gap on my new NGK 6510's. Is there a trick to it??


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Jasber said:

I had a hell of a time closing the gap on my new NGK 6510's. Is there a trick to it??


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They bent 3 of my gapping tools. I hit it on some wood, did a way better job.

Exactly what I do, tap it on a 2x4.

MAPerformance said:

Exactly what I do, tap it on a 2x4.

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Sounds easy, but I didn't have much luck "tapping" them on anything. I ended up pushing pretty forcefully (but carefully) down onto my garage floor. Was a real PITA.

Brad said:

They bent 3 of my gapping tools. I hit it on some wood, did a way better job.

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Either NGKs have some hellaciously strong strap electrodes or you need better gapping tools. I have never had a problem opening or closing gaps on plugs with simple gapping tools. This is the tool I use to gap my plugs; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODE0M I've used it to gap the OEM plugs and 2 different sets of Denso plugs, and used similar gapping tools to gap all different kinds of plugs for years. Very easy.