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Update- Ok, so I final got the replacement control mod in and replaced it. Simple enough to disconnect and connect the new one and didn't seem to do anything at all. The lights come on still, but no sound, or click like others have had. So unless I can figure something out, looks like it's...

I appreciate the link, but that's a 2017, and doesn't sound like my issue. I'm thinking it's the module under the seat (pictured) . The seat had been working since getting the car about 2yrs ago. Can't find any used ones, and there is a new SKU- for that part (JU5Z-14C708-R) There is a thread...

Just like the title says, I have an 18 ecoboost premium PP1(without memory seats) and only the driver seat's heated/cooled function stopped working. No blower, no heat, no cooling, nothing but the button lights up. The passenger seat works without issue . I saw posts about the plugs shorting out...

It did help, but since it's getting a factory signal they can only help so much . The front/center staging EQ is the problem imo.

I saw a few people talk about going with 270, but wasn't 100% sure if they'd fit without rubbing with the increase of 20mm/0.78" in width up front. But after having them put on yesterday they're just what I wanted. I have the performance pack ecoboost WITHOUT spacers and on stock ride height...

Update- I got it, I pinned the plug and everything is working without issue.👌🏻

If you add a sub you'll then have to address the ANC noise issue if you don't have the factory sub. I've not seen anyone who has that sub with filters inline.

You're under the assumption that the pics of the eq weren't done to elicit a comment on it (such as yours) 😉... Also the visual representation of the screen doesn't accurately represent the staging bc of the factory eq is shite. 👌🏻

I took a salvage plug to pin the grey amp plug and get sub outputs. Which pins are needed? Back Story- I can't seem to find the info I need. I had a '16 Mustang w/factory sub, but then got an '18 w/o it bit when I finished with swapping the box, amp, and Lc2i (oh my) it worked...

The 2 way 4ohm speakers for the rear are much easier to find. I dislike the front staging and isn't balanced(front to back). The factory Ford system will have noise issues if you change the ohm rating. Finding the 8ohm replacement front speakers isn't easy(or cheap). Also, I don't need a whole...

Quick update: after adding the dielectric grease to the regulator Motor plug I've not had 1 hiccup thus far. 🤞🏻

Like so many people I have been left wanting just a little more from the stock (9 speaker) system so after different issues in the past and reading posts I kinda deduced that the only speakers that are easily replaced are the lower door and rear deck speakers bc the system will make weird noises...

Ok, so I first used dielectric grease on the latch actuator but didn't seem to fix it(tho ostensibly helped..) after more reading about the window motor I cracked the door open like a clam to put some on the window Motor plug, that did have water around it fwiw, and drove it around for a bit and...

I'm actually having a similar issue right now with my 2018 eco on my passenger window. It started out the blue a few days staying in the drop down position. Infrequently. I read about putting dielectric grease in the plug after blowing it out with air to remove moisture... And so I did, But no...

This one about 6 months, but on my last Mustang (2016) prob about 2yrs. I got this particular led strip bc of there were any problems... I can easily unplug& replace(without re-splicing wires). At this point Im confident it'll stay.

I haven't done any adjusting, repressing, or anything to it and it's held up without sagging or delaminating.

Anyone whose opened a S550 Mustang at night knows the trunk light is very poor. This is what I did to simply add lighting. I was reticent and leery of LED stick on strips, but liked it on my 2016, that after trading it in I put it in my 2018 trunk. I just wired it up to the factory trunk...

Yea, I just used a pair of threaded insert nuts for the bolts.

I couldn't find a way to secure it more permanently without cutting the liner or having a bracket exposed. So I used 2 cheap nylon looped straps that slip down and just loop around the car seat hooks. That side is usually up anyway.

Hey guys, just thought I'd show the ported sub I made for a 12" JL after not finding what I was looking for that allowed me to use the pass through, and after hating the box I had a place make that was too bulky. Hadn't made or wrapped a box before, but came out decent.