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we all live and learn, I've seen much worse on this page.

It happens, just ask my first car with a BBK (bought it that way though). Didn't know til my first trackday that they were backwards. And even swapped last minute to forwards, they still had pad deposits after 3 laps. Rotora is show, not go... but, lesson learned.

So, to sum up, keys to success... Low calcium oil, good tune (some of you are further ahead of this than others) or no tune (stock ford for warranty). My personal opinions. Find a way to keep the intake valves clean. Mine have been clean with redline full synthetic 5w30, going to 5w40 motul...

That, and 305 slicks fit at all four corners without fender flares if you do it right. Good luck fitting that under a stock bodied frs...

Lethal Performance has options on the site to pic your rotor finish.

I was going to ask opinions on these. Are they slotted to allow expansion? and do they include the tool to change the disc material?

Needs more camber, maybe?

VIR does have those nice long straights... I am carrying about 6-10 mph less speed in the esses and through roller coaster though. M3 was 270whp or so, and 2800lbs

You guys are making me jealous. Mine is about 10 seconds off at VIR from my old M3... But that probably had more in it than I care to admit. Youtube: Impulsed7 for comparison.

You're looking for best money spent, and even thinking about a pedalmax? Are you serious? Save the money and adjust your foot, cause thats all that thing does. And on a serious note, buy someones used sways, used pp springs and shocks and be done with it. I'd sell you mine, but they're...

Does your car smoke? If no, don't do anything to the stock check valve...

Your diff fluid won't look too bad compared to a clutch type LSD, because of the torsen type in your Performance pack. It could be roasted, but only a good analysis would tell. With a clutch type, you get all that clutch and friction plate material clouding it up, looking dirty. I've used...

If you really need to, upgrade brake fluid. Other than that, your track driving, with a good instructor shouldn't hurt the car much at all. 1 big thing to remember, slow is smooth, and smooth is fast!

Carbotech has made rear pad options for this car. I got mine through Anthony@htm. Still waiting on front rotor options for the Eco Performance Pack/base GT front brakes though...

Maybe its a temporary tune to keep em from going boom. Once they figure the issue out it may get its power back down low? Also, that engine came in the solstice's way back when, and I don't remember too many of those blowing up? Anybody else?

Nothing, if you are new to the track. If you are experienced and fast-ish at the track, brake pads and good fluid and you're good.

Sport is what I recommend to most drivers unless you have years of track time under your belt already. Doesn't hinder, and will save you when you screw up.

Not much really... Although the GT350 has coolers for diff and trans, ford still recommends the same intervals to change the fluids. Not many cars can handle being driven like a race car straight off the shelf though.

Better brake fluid is a must when you get faster, the stock stuff may hold up for now, but make sure its a complete flush of the system. ATE type 200 is great for the price and works with the ABS module in this car. Diff fluid? who knows. I've used the stock Ford stuff for two track days now...

FSU f'd stuff up... to put it nicely. Track mode is for track. Even novice drivers. It WILL save you, and is way easier on the rear brake pads and diff than TCS full on. Change the diff fluid to something actually good. Even the manual says to change it after every track day or so, so may...