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mfgr of the spacers required 90 ft lbs for the bolts holding the spacers on and the lug nuts to be 125 for warranty. According to them, over torquing could cause them to crack. Worked fine at these specs for years. Adding the loctite was my decision.

Think about it. The center of the wheel was moved out 20mm on each side from how the suspension/wheel combination was designed. Font steering was off from the designed turning geometry. Almost like it was “scrubbing” through a turn. To be honest, I didn’t notice it when I installed the...

I ran a set of 20mm bolt On’s for over 75,000 miles with no issues other than wearing down the front tires quicker. I followed the torque specs and even loctited the nuts on to hold them in place for peace of mind. Only reason I took them off was I got tired of arguing with the counter...

Update: Went with the 2018 intake, JLT CAI and the VMP tune. Pulled the ‘15 intake off and discovered I just had a bad actuator. Oops! 😬 But I don’t care. The butt dyno says it was well worth the effort and cost.

No links.

Most likely the shaft is broken since this seems to be the common issue. Now it could be the vacuum actuator. I just don’t want to tear into the engine and have it sitting waiting on parts while unmoveable in my driveway. I’m going to try and get a better look before ordering anything.

I’ve heard you can run the GT350 without a tune and you cannot. Anyone here with firsthand experience? There are wiring mods needed.

102,000 miles. Old man driven. I really don’t want to do the ‘18 upgrade. Are the ‘15-‘17 intakes still available from Ford? No, not going to go with a used or China intake. Web searching Ford parts I get part number FR3Z-9424-N. But I’m also seeing that same part number for the ‘18 intake...

I ran these on my 2015 GT with stock wheels that required no drilling for wheel stud clearance. I’ve probably put 75,000 miles on them and just took them off because I got tired of arguing with counter guys at the tire shop. I’m getting too old for that crap. Factory lug nut torque is 150 ft...

I bought the Motorcraft off Amazon for $42. Same on CJ Pony sells, but I have Prime so no shipping fees.

I’m still wondering if the dealership was honest when my compressor clutch went out. They insisted on an entire compressor and clutch assembly.

Oh, my total cost for all 4 tires after buying sensors, remote and paying Discount Tire was $250 for all 4.

After almost 10 years and 93,000 miles my TPMS sensors started dropping out. Started reading up on programming new sensors. I came up with all kinds of ways to do this. I bought new sensors from CJ Pony but thought I could save $40 on the remote after reading about all the witchcraft methods...

I got just under 94,000 miles before it shit the bed.

Just the compressor, clutch assembly and the belt. Yea, tough pill to swallow.

Only shortcut I know is the directions to a dealership. Sorry. Mine died back in May. Compressor to the tune of $1800.

Expect letters in the mail about a safety recall or get bugged by service writers if you go to a dealership for anything. They still hound me about the back up camera. I fixed it myself by simply cutting the too tight tiewraps and replacing them but fitted loosely. Oh, and the door handle...

Pull serpentine belt off and feel for play in the pump shaft.

I fought with Travelers over this when my ‘95 GT got totaled. They didn’t care what I put on it, just paying out market value of a 1995 GT convertible. It was a long fight, but I got them to come up about $2500 and kept the car and parted it out. FYI, my company because uninsured driver...

I ignored the smell and two days later I was waiting on the side of the road for a tow truck. Water pump bearings went out and was dumping coolant. I had to replace it at 57,000 miles. Going to swap it again with a new serpentine belt at 100,000 miles as a PM. Carry a gallon or two of water...