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Taking out cats isn't a manufacturer specific thing. It all depends on how much HP you're making. Every power adder has the potential to take out the stock cats as the power increases. Tuning also plays an important part. If you are serious about keeping your motor alive you should go with a...

Running 2 pumps full time is fine. That's how most have them setup including myself. Some tuners want it that way (2 all the time) so that there is no hobbs switch in the mix that could be wired incorrectly or fail or whatever and cause you to go lean at WOT. Storing the car for an extend...

Sticking with 850 or so whp for now (have not re-dynoed since i changed from a 4.25 to a 4.0 pulley). Thats about as much as i feel comfortable pushing my MMR 1000 short block. My current converter was fine before I had a built motor (made 740whp), but now the stall of the 3C is too loose to get...

Also just a FYI i have a 245mm 3C Circle D converter that will be for sale in a couple months. Stepping up to a 258mm 2C because of my power level. Converter only has 7-8k miles on it and only used on the street.

The p1x is good for up to 900 or so whp on e85 or race fuel. If you are only gonna run 93 that will limit you to about 700-750 whp. IMO you should keep it under 700 if you want the motor to last on 93. All depends on what size pulley you are running. Guessing the whipple is just pullied for more...

I would agree with switching to the procharger. Having the 10 speed you will always be in the powerband. Also no issues with high IAT's like with PD blowers. My 6r80 procharged S197 is making 800+ whp and even only with the 6 speed it is still an animal on the street.

Well if you're not planning on supercharging. you will probably be ok with 3.73 gears. especially since you have heavier 20" wheels. A tune will definitely wake the car up. Since you live in Arizona with the hot climate I would stay away from any open CAI's. The stock one will work fine or even...

Is your car supercharged or NA?

Well i think it would also be important to know how @Lunar plans to drive his car. I'm sure your 3.73's work well for you on a prepped track with full suspension, drag tires, and centri blower. On the street would be an entirely different story.

Honesty I would just save money for a converter. You will get more bang for the buck as far as performance goes in reducing your quarter mile times. If you are only street driving, and still want to do gears instead of a converter, I wouldn't go higher than 3.55. 3.73 or higher on the street...

With the 6r80 first gear being 4.17, a 4.09 rear gear would be absolutely useless. This has been discussed heavily going back to the gen 1 coyotes and the general consensus is to keep the 3.15 stock gears and just choose a converter that will work best for your setup. I remember there was one...

Having installed headers on my s197, it was a PITA, even with using my friends lift. If you can find a reputable shop to install them for $500-$600, I would save yourself the headace and have them do it. Had a shop install headers on my s550 and i don't regret spending the extra money one bit.

Interesting that you think BMR makes mediocre parts. I have a bunch of their parts on my S197, including their K member, and I have never been disappointed with their quality or had issues with excessive NVH. I mean if you go with rod ends instead of poly bushings with any manufacturer you are...

100% agree. you can make all the power in the world but if you can't put it to the ground, then what's the point? get the suspension mods and tires so you can put that power down safely and reliably, then get a blower.

UPR has a nice vented catch can setup. https://www.uprproducts.com/15-21-mustang-gt-5-0-billet-breather-tank-plug-n-play-1/ Can be mounted on either driver or passenger side strut tower depending on your configuration. Using the same setup on my Procharged 14 GT and it works well.

Kooks 1-7/8" headers with full 3" connection pipes and Corsa sport catback. Running this setup on my car. Sounds awesome and no drone.

I was just gonna say, NGK 6510's are what Lund recommends for boosted applications and the Reische 170 is the most popular thermostat to go with.

To reiterate my first post that is a lot of PSI for pump gas, even w/additive. Definitely move to E85 or Race gas

I guess i forgot to read, lol

Not sure how long these have been out but I was just surfing the web today and decided to look at the VMP website https://www.vmpperformance.com/superchargers/supercharger-kits/mustang Seems that they now are selling Gen3R budget kits for 6k. I've been wanting to go with a PD blower for my...