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You will want to go with a true return style system, on3 makes a billet triple pump system you can use. You def want PTFE hoses for e85 as well. Sai's system will work though, although 850whp on e85 may be in the upper end of it's limits, so I would personally look into a triple pump set up...

With a dead head system you are mostly going to be battling heat, the fuel will sit in the rail while not being used, this can lead to vapor lock which makes start up on e85 even harder since you are trying to literally start the car on fumes. Now a dead head system will work, how ever you run...

You need a tune update to work with out IMRCs since you swapped to a Boss manifold, if you don't it won't run right. You also need to have it updated to shut that code off since you now have a return style system in the car

20-30* over ambient is about normal, the larger heat exchanger and better pump will help prevent it from heat soaking as fast as a less capable system though. So when you go WOT it will soak much slower, I'm talking like a 5* IAT2 increase after a single sprint...

If the pump is running you should see a ton of circulation coming out of the outlet of the manifold. Best way would be to draw a vacuum on the system and then fill it from a bucket full of coolant...this will make sure that there are no air pockets anywhere

Really good deal for those who don't turn their own wrenches...sent you a PM Travis

That will get him a tune but none of the OS differences between the standard OS and the PP OS.

Spend your money on other mods that will yield more results than a TB will. Stock TB flows plenty for NA sets up, only time to upgrade it is of CJ/gt350/SC cars...

Based on what you have said in the replies so far, It would seem your new tuner is not adjusting the correct tables to deal with WOT spark. IIRC the nGauge does not log map point weight, so he is prob adjusting spark blindly, or he is adjusting MBT spark and not borderline like he should be...

I would prob charge someone for an hour of my time, really depends on my mood the day and how busy I am...if they swing by with lunch asking me to do a quick return style I may be inclined to just do it while eating.... It would take about 5 minutes to make those changes and send it out to...

That tends to the the case many times, if it ran good before it will run good after you go return style.

(Q)How different is the tune for a return system? (A)See attached image in order to understand what all is changed. Most injector companies like ID and DW supply this data so it's as easy and copy and paste then log to confirm things are okay (Q) How much did you guys pay for a retune? (A)...

It's too new of a kit and not enough people have their hands on it. Seeing as how their kit is CARB approved it will prob make decent power but be extremely conservative...

LTFT are enabled and working during WOT...attached is a screenshot of your e85 pull showing STFT and LTFT are working during WOT. When LTFT are disabled they will display a value of 1 the entire time.

Good call on the LTFT, I didn't even look at that one since Lund tends to always disable it in their tunes. How ever it does look like he has a lean spot when he initially goes WOT, it does settle down to .79-.80 lambda though once he revs up higher...so def doesn't look like pump issue

The beginning of your pull is a little lean, you are seeing .84-.85 λ, how ever it looks like they left your timing pretty conservative so this lean spot isn't causing any pre-detonation, most likely due to e85's increase knock resistance. If this is the first log you sent them I would expect...

Have tuned various cars that rev up to 7800rpm on stock OPG and CSS with out any issues. Don't bounce off the limiter and the gears will live a long time. My personal car has been revved to 8k rpm almost daily for over a year now...still on stock OPGs and CSS

I mentioned them to someone, but haven't actually tuned anyone with them. Also haven't seen their injector data for tuning purposes

It's about volume and maintaining the correct ratio. Most testers have the water line first and the fuel line last. But you could have one with a fuel line first and water line second, the order does not matter a tester uses does not matter as long as the tester maintains the correct ratio.

It won't matter, I do mine the same as you, water first, since the water line is on the bottom. But as long as the same volume of water is put in the tester, it will show the same value. What happens with the tester is the water attaches to the ethanol and not the water, this causes the ethanol...