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A helpful tool: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

I would assume offset. On a 20 inch mustang wheel at these widths, typically the tire is a 30% profile the common/easy 19 inch fitment is 19x10 +35 or +40 offset front and rear, or for 19x11 rear a +50. Total Width and Offsets are similar for 19 or 20, until you get really aggressive (which...

Rear brakes are the same, yes. This thread I’ve linked discusses the upgrade and has part numbers. Going from memory reading it, yes calipers are all you technically need. There are different brake shields, and it doesn’t hurt to replace hardware as well...

Tire Rack lists the 295/35 ECS and PS4S at 11.9 inch section width, but the ECS at 10.2 inch tread width vs 9.8 inch for the Michelin. The section width sizing doesn’t always tell the full story, but for daily sizes this distinction doesn’t matter as much. You are correct that the rounded...

Continental ECS come in 275/285/295/35. The diameters and tread width work out close enough for those size wheels that it’s not a huge change from the “nominal” section width of 305 rear. I am planning to use this combination next year, though I haven’t decided 275 vs 285 up front.

Few options here to get you started researching. Different wheels but ball park. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mmr-350-rims-with-longer-apr-studs-need-lug-help.144199

Both the Steeda and BMR kits are also relatively cheap. Yes, it all adds up - I avoid looking too often at the total I’ve spent modifying my car - but they’re in the “eh just pick one and throw it in” price category. Easier to just do the first time with the CB install than come back to later if...

Fair point, flow formed is the more accurate description of the manufacturing technique. Most folks here use these terms relatively interchangeably, but I shouldn’t assume that. In either case for OPs purposes, these specific SVE wheels are better than stock Cast wheels and far more affordable...

Many people here run SVE wheels and seem pleased with them. They are a good value for their size, weight, and method of construction (rotary forged). If you like this style, they should serve you well. I’m personally holding out for an R357 sale. Here’s a recent-ish thread...

At best they helped the cradle align and/or stay aligned during my install. For performance, not that I would be able to tell. Useful for any future point where I would drop the subframe, like the CB762 kit for example. It’s a nice to have at most.

If you choose to use the BMR alignment dowels, be prepared with some grease to make the install easier. They are a tight fit and, for me, required using the supplied bolt to pull them up into the subframe void.

Each should have two small screws securing them. 7mm I believe.

11s need both extended studs and a spacer up front, due to the +50 offset. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/sve-r357-11-inch-squared-wheels.126034/

There is a second set of sizes coming out next year, but I can’t find the source where I saw that right now. Granted that’s probably mid summer which is a ways off.

285/35 19 are 26.9 inches, 255/40 19 are 27.0 inches nominally. 275/40 19 are 27.7 inches and is what comes on the rear of PP1 cars. I can’t speak to this size and front strut clearance. You can run a 275 tire on a x10 inch wheels depending on the brand/model of tire; look at the actual tread...

Lots of people run a 285/35 profile on 19x10. 285/40 ends up being quite tall. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Yes the PP liners will install just fine, I did this with a PP belly pan on my non PP GT. I did the whole replacement because I tore up my factory pan and liners from some accidental off-roading; turns out the Mustang isn’t made for that haha. But it’s not required, you can simply cut the liners...

Also would go with Rokblokz. They’re well made and mounted sturdily. They also provide good coverage out from the fender and below the bumper.

Yes, That is the correct number. I just did this recently myself. You need 2 more screws than the base models. Here is an install guide from roush for a chin spoiler that shows the belly pan reasonably well. I also swapped on a PP chin spoiler which is larger and has different holes; I can’t...

I have some posts much earlier in this thread about throttle, but it’s more related to rev hang with the manual being improved. Can’t say the throttle feels different in normal otherwise, not that I’ve noticed. Also the tune is the full kit, don’t think there is a way around that.