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Honestly, one loose cell inside can be enough to cause a hard or no start situation, or affect accessory usage like radio or lights. A good hard bump or two can cause the strongest of batteries to loosen up internally.

This always turns into a huge "my battery lasts longer than yours" debate, but I consider average life to be 3 years if all-seasons driving. Sure, there are batteries that last ten, especially if left on a trickle charger, but they're so darn cheap it's good insurance to just pop a new one in...

I start in 2nd from the light to ensure a smooth roll-out. Let it rev up to 2k and double tap it into 4th. Same thing into 6th, then 8th, then 9 or 10. On the turbo, it keeps boost in the sweet spot without rapid fire shifting every three seconds.

I'm not upset at all about replacement price, more on the lifespan. As noted, I recognize 30k probably isn't normal, and that they were most likely beaten on. I'm asking is OEM acceptable for street use or just upgrade the pads and call it a day?

So, stick with OEM?

Title says it all. Stock EB non-PP brakes are garbage. I have 30k on them, full fluid, semi-acceptable pedal solidity, squeaking and approximately 15% pad wear left. I've read that they're garbage and sure, my car was a rental beforehand so it was probably abused, but (projecting) 35k out of...

Waltematech's blue car is correct for US. The turn signal strip below the headlight (with foglight) is white housing in US, only illuminating with amber LEDs as running lights or signaling. The headlight housing itself has an orange reflector built in, which is also clear on the non-US spec...

Exactly.

Nobody should be buying a new mustang anyway. My CPO was 1.5 years old with 18k miles and sold for less than half the sticker price.

What? 10-25k is a small up charge?

Throw it in Sport and double paddle from 1-3.

Why even make this post? Of COURSE a car with 100 more hp or whatever will "pull" more. The engine is nearly twice as large. My EB with 10 Speed still snaps my head back when I want it to and gets 40 mpg.

Not ignoring your questions, but is that tire torn open??

Totally overtaking this thread lol. This is acceptable at highway speeds, wayyy more comfortable and less cross-breeze.

Yes but how? All four windows drop automatically when you lower the top. You'd have to manually raise the rear glass then start to drive.

He's speaking specifically to having the rear quarter windows up and front windows down. It makes no sense. If anything, the buffeting would drive me crazy.

Literally this. Yikes. REALLY hope you got a great deal, that maintenance alone will cost ya big $$$.

Maybe because some convertible people drive around with their top and fronts down, and corner windows up. It never makes any sense and looks ridiculous.

This. It's just a mod for mods sake. Silly.

This is the opposite of what you should do. The smaller windows need to be up so the fronts glide against the felt liner.