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What fuel are you using? The last WOT showed your timing over 31 degrees, and that's pretty high. Knock looks fine though, so maybe the timing is fine. The other two WOTs before only go to a bit over 28 degrees. The rpm seem to climb much smoother on the first two, but the third looks much...

That's very impressive gains. What kind of exhaust mods were done?

If you datalog even a stock car, you will see how timing, commanded timing, and knock sensors come in to play. You will never see the the factory hp and torque ratings out of the motor without running the fuel they did or higher octane during their rated tests. 91 octane e10 is what Ford US...

You aren't supposed to drink it.

Try 87 and a bottle of this... beats 93 only

Lord, that tire is a meatball!!!

I can say the closed kit looks nice. It ran like shit on my car. I sent datalog after datalog and never received a revision from all that data. I had to do something though, cause the car was not safe to drive on the street. It would stall when coming to a stop when the clutch was in, and it...

In chronological order: 1984 Mustang LX 2.3L 4 cylinder hatchback - motor blew after I topped it out 1969 Mustang coupe 302 cid 3 speed manual - rear-ended and totaled 1995 Base Mustang GT 5.0L (Last year of the Windsor) 5 speed manual - traded at 200,000 miles 2005 Mustang GT 4.6L 3 valve...

I considered keeping my 05, but I traded up for the 17.

They have pretty good advertising. Ru Ready? hahaha

That's a good 60' for a first run. Pretty fast ET for stock. MPH seem low though, or am I wrong? Seems like it should be 120+. Track prep must be good. Keep running and post back follow ups. I'm sure you can go faster!!! :):beer:

For 15-17 the limiter is set at 7000 rpm stock. I would not run it lower than that. My power starts falling off at about 6700, and it's pretty easy to shift in time as to not hit the limiter. I just aim for the 6750 mark on the tach and don't have issues hitting the limiter.

I run a 93 octane tune, since that's all I have here. No E85 or less. E10 93 octane is the highest you can get... Anyway, unless you leave the tune stock and don't change parts to make more power, you are very limited in what the car can do. The tune by itself unlocks a lot of potential that...

Disconnecting the battery will reset some of the engine mapping like timing and fuel. It couldn't hurt, because it will relearn over time. However, if you have access to a tuner you could do a crank relearn. I would try that if the battery disconnect doesn't clear things up. Also, the dealer...

I changed the tire size in the tune, and this code came up. Went back to stock size tire settings, cleared the codes, and now there is no code after more driving. So what gives? If we change the tire size is this an expected code and to be ignored? Maybe a tuner can tune that code out?

Some kind of polishing rouge would probably work on the plastic to minimize the appearance of the scratch. A wet dryer sheet may help with the stain on the paint as well.

I have noticed the difference between the canned 93 tune and the Steeda tune. I think the canned tune throttle response is a bit more aggressive. It felt that way to me at least. I've datalogged both tunes on different days but under similar conditions. It was the closest comparison I could...

It is a pretty short and simple process. The tuner will walk you through it. Worth a try, but I would be checking for any kind of vacuum leak since the idle is now different.

I think the exhausts on both cars are different enough to account for the noise level. The x-pipe is why you get resonance in the cabin. The rest of the OEM exhaust is more restrictive than the x-pipe, so there is back-pressure at times somewhere in the exhaust before the tailpipe that is...

That was sarcastic, but joking. I guess taken out of context. It's not like I'm the scammer. Too many trolls want attention. I'm on the front lines. You don't get a choice, and neither do I. If you can, go donate blood.