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I've just fixed the thingy with no knob, my impressions: The throttle seems to have a shorter trip from zero to full and I think this is the trick that makes drivers feel it's revs jump up quicker, it's a nice feeling anyway...specialy in stop and go B roads and in town. On open roads the...

I does come with an instruction, I have the doubt if the the pedal sensor is right above the pedal itself or it's the small black box attached at the right of the pedal...

I just received the pedal max thing, is there a video link where to have explained how to assembly it to the thrttle pedal sensor?

When I had the stock intake the temp difference was when moving about 3/4 c grades, now it's never 20/25 c above outer temp (expressed in centigrades), very peculiar issue, mine is an euro Mustang hence it doesn't have the hood vent but I've bout them in USA (Roush) and have cut the hood and...

The Steeda CAI keeps the under air intake of the stock piece and I've checked where it ends up by the grill and it finishes in a small area where there is barely a hole in the grill honeycomb, all the other holes around it are tapped...

Wouldn't it be better to have an open up front grill that allowed plenty of fresh air into the filter área? I've noticed that right in the place where is positioned the air income going to the air filter is tapped with plastic... Is grill delete an option to cure this? BTW, I've just got the...

My direct experience is based only on the 407 SB Chevy where the X mid pype made a difference in the way power is released through the revs, for the modern engines hence included the Coyote I get what you mean.

I know this issue has been treated hundreds of times but I want to add my take on it, I've got an H mid pipe as part of a race catback exhaust...until the car was bone stock (apart the catback), the H pipes were plenty and enough to let the engine breath up to red line...then I've tuned it and I...

I need advice here, supposing I get 15x10 rear wheels with drag/track MH Racemaster 275/50/15, what front wheel/tire package should I use for a track/street use? No skinnies front, I was thinking about a 15x9.5 with 245/50 high performance radials, eventually could I consider a squared set of...

I can back your comments on Lund, I have its 93 octane tune (part of a Steeda power pack) and it's easy to use and gives very good results, specially above 4k rpms.

I don't know, I just drove it e few miles but my GT is not a DD so fuel economy is no big deal actually.

Well, sorry to bring back an ''old'' thread but I have to clarify and rewind the whole thing... The tune I had flashed at first wasn't the one for my application, it was for a no-tune Steeda CAI for this very reason the engine didn't pull over 4/5000 rpms, I've just flashed in the right tune...

I found out they sent me the wrong tune (it was for the CAI with the insert while I have the one without it), it's a pain in that place but Lund sent me the right one already and I'm going to flash it next week...

If I go to 17' wheels is to save weight, eventually I'd go to smaller brakes too. Front tires, this is the key of my OP question, what tire could I use front to match the rear?

Supposing I'll get smaller aerospace Street brake kits.. Racestar 17' wheels: http://www.lethalperformance.com/shop-now/vehicle-selector/ford-mustang-v8-gt/2015-ford-mustang-gt/wheels/race-star/race-star-drag-wheel-2005-2015-mustang-gt500-17-9-5-dark-star-finish.html MH drag radial 275/50...

Can I ask what measures are your race stars? Are they 17''? How wide? Thanks.

I have this C3... And this TVR Griffith 500... Without A/C, no traction control, no airbag..The TVR hasn't even a roof or Windows LOL. Matter is what's the car's destination, if a DD then it would be pure madness to go around all season without some fresh air, specially when you work...

:)