Hey everyone,
I’m a victim of the IMRC actuating rod failures and have to start shopping around.
My 5.0 is a 37k mile 6sp MT82 with a stock drivetrain but half of the Steeda/BMR catalogs thrown at it.
Anyways, has Ford updated the intake manifolds for Gen 2s? Are the rods stronger now?
I’m...
Hey everyone,
Long story short my car is sitting uneven in the front.
It never truly bothered me until I started trying to stuff the OEM GT350 wheels on my base 17 GT.
With that said, they fit, with no rubbing except for on the front driver tire.
My car needs an alignment and has the...
They are awesome looking (the wheels and wider fenders), but I’m going to skip new fenders because of the nightmare of installing (and extra cost) for the small improvement in space.
They tuck nicely enough for me to not want anymore wheel well room for aesthetic reasons.
Realistically I’m...
They are, I don’t know if my subframe is out of wack or what but my car just swallows the 305s on the 19x11s. I’d have double check my strut clearance but I could honestly go 325 30 19 I think in the rear without thinking twice.
Edit: The fronts look great, looks very trackesque (I made that...
Got it, happy to hear I’m not alone with the rub when lowered.
To be clear this car only rubs at freeway speeds over bumps going like 70mph+.
For residential/city driving it’s perfectly fine.
That’s an awesome car, definitely one of my favorite colors.
Were you lowered? I am on Steeda’s progressives which are a 1ish inch drop on the front if I remember right. I have no issues anywhere except my front driver side.
Sure, I’ve only got pics of the rubbing side. Yep, aware of the fenders. I’m just trying to stuff these wheels under my car for aesthetic purposes hah.
I haven’t got rubber for the wheels yet so I’m not completely married to them yet. If I can’t make them work they’ll be sold.
The angle isn’t...
Hey everyone,
I am likely beating a dead horse at this point but I have a set of GT350 wheels with the OEM Michelin PSS with 2.5/3mm of tread left that obviously need to be replaced.
Specs:
Front
19x10.5", 30mm offset, 60.5lb (with 295/35/19 stock tire)
Rear
19x11", 62mm offset, 61lb (with...
I hear ya.
Ball joints looked okay on the surface. I noticed a substantial difference in the effort it took to move them while comparing passenger and driver. This was my giveaway that they were going, I’m uncertain if that was actually the noise (I
i don’t have photos of my sway bar end links...
got updates! 2 loose control arm bolts, and a worn ball joint on one
no more clunks while turning braking or anything.
without taking the car apart do the following to test for noises.
shaking/tapping by hand.
Striking by rubber mallet.
Listen for any movement during both of your tests. I...
Honestly if you got your warranty I’d drag it in and make them take a look at it.
If you’re not, and are cheap like me. Assuming you’re solid structurally and it isn’t a drivetrain clunk (for whatever reason), there are only so many front end parts on these cars, just start shaking and prying...
Sounds good.
haven’t got the links yet thanks to FedEx but I think that’ll be the plan. Those are a consistent pain across the board it seems like.
Keep me posted.
All my parts should be in by tomorrow and installed this weekend.
Hoping new control arms/lateral links/swaybar end links and a careful reassembly solves my issues.
if not - I guess I’m back to the struts.
Interesting, and it was a clear wheel feeling? I’ll have to test after I reassemble. Visually inspecting and prying on it doesn’t offer any feedback hah.
Interesting, and frustrating to hear at the same time lol.
Car is at 25k, and has had minor clunks since 17k that just got worse and worse.
Were you able to easily hear where the noise was coming from? Does it make a unique noise at all?