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As respectfully as I can possibly be, I got to ask, did you not install the ESS kit yourself? If you don't know what the belt tensioner is, it is probably best to take it to a shop, especially if you "don't wanna mess anything up". :like:

First, what app is that? Second, not sure where you live but if the Fuel Monitor is the only test Not Ready, then it will still pass in states like Virginia. I assume you tried all the driving cycles/conditions to get all the monitors into Ready state? I personally could never get the Fuel...

Your concern about sending unit accuracy is still valid, hence the cost difference between an Autometer or AEM gauge versus a Glowshift gauge. :like:

A digital boost gauge still has a direct vac/boost reference. They come with a separate unit that usually remains mounted somewhere in the engine bay that you run a vacuum line to. Then that unit reports to the gauge via a dedicated data cable that you run from the engine bay into your dashboard...

Yeah, don't give up on it. In the end, it is worth it no matter which method you require to get Active working. The difference between Track Mode and Quiet/Cop Mode is almost like night and day. And that is with Kooks catless headers and full 3inch pipes front to back (no neck down on my setup).

Sorry, plug/play only works if you have the harness already. If look around the posts in this thread, you can find ways others have made it work when no harness was present. It can be done but much more involved without the harness.

WENGERD tuned. Seriously, it drives like stock but will stain your underwear at 8,000+. :cwl: Don't choke your CJ with a stock throttle body! I run a VMP 137 Monoblade and it also has Stage 2 cams. I dreamed this intake setup into reality and went with ESS solely to keep everything my car...

My car runs cool and IATs are great with the PP radiator, 170 Reische T-stat, and G4 cooler.

I did the install solo at home using a loaner bearing press tool from AutoZone. Removing/installing the arms is the easy part. It was a battle pressing the stock bushing out and pressing the new bearings in. The second time I did the swap, I just simply bought new arms with Cortex bearings...

I have the Large Marge fuel filter and it fits up there without pushing the tray down. You may need to route your lines differently. I recall myself spending an OCD amount of time choosing which way I would run my lines under there for the filter to sit they way I preferred. :crackup:

To keep it simple, return fuel system, 100mm pulley, decent air. This also assumes 10R80.

Long Reach Daytona is the way. Not only does it work for lowered cars it also jacks up pretty high to get the car up on wheel cribs, etc.

Look up under the car, near the area under the center/rear behind where the spare well is and see for yourself. It very likely is a similar harness connection and if you have it, you will see it.

Is this supposed to be an E85 con? Been E85 since summer 2019 and not a single issue in any season.

I would keep the stock crank pulley and just upgrade to at least the ARP bolt or even better the Kinetic crank saver stud.

Go E85 and smell much cleaner and no more black-sooty exhaust tips.

Don’t get me wrong, I think they look better in black than the original gold.

I thought ARP studs were gold/brass colored. Did you paint or powder these black?

Looks like something you see on a car that gets lots of short drives around town without getting fully warmed up.

Stock plugs and gap for N/A, period. Boosted - NGK 6510 gapped to whatever your tuner tells you.