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Who’s the hack with the wiring???????? Everything looks good but that.

Lund gives you specific instructions which are pretty clear. Smh

I got the part saying don’t bother with opgs on turbo setup. That’s all I needed to see. Always mean to save the posts where the guy says wish I would’ve done em after his go. Just saw another the other day.

Wrong!!!!!!!! You know how easy it is to break tires loose and hit the limiter.

Top mount kit. Stock t stat cht’s were 220 plus. 170 t stat cht’s are between 203 and 205 now. Do have turbo blankets.

I asked but he didn’t say. I’ve heard could be if not enough Assy lube. Heard they make new washers, if original ones spin while torquing could skew the reading. Maybe I should’ve decked the heads when I had head studs installed originally, One of the reasons I sent the whole long block...

I actually sent in my motor to have em go through it. At the end of last season I was lifting the heads (or bad head gasket) even with the studs and cosmetic gaskets. I didn’t want to take any chances with anything so had them do everything. Sleeves, pistons, valve job etc....... Sent them...

Man, that’s a lot of work. Don’t ask me how I know...........

Just got the motor back from Mpr. Went with fully built sleeved motor. Actually took it around the block for the first time today. Have a few things to work out and get the motor broke in. Then plan on seeing what I can get out of these little 55’s.

Wouldn’t it have been easier to put heads and timing components on out of the car??? Then drop the motor in. Good luck brother. I know you’ve had issues.

Just seeing this now, may as well do springs while your in there. Hate to do all that and have float. Some have float, some don’t.

Looks like the other stated. Frrp racing block

Had a buddy had same issue. Turned out his was a bad pump.

Any before and after numbers with the 4-1 headers. I’m considering upgrading while I have my motor out.

Mine were identical. Maybe they were out of one and sent you a comparable one. Me personally I’d want the exact same ones. You want them to respond and work the same.

That’s just a line coming off manifold same as you’d have going to a boost gauge.(mine goes to vac/boost block). needs to see vac/boost for readings only. The duty cycle controls the boost.

That’s the way I hooked mine up with the exception I went to vacuum/boost block as opposed to the compressor. Had it off the compressor and can’t remmeber why I moved it.

I mounted the selenoids in the fenders. I have fore vacuum /boost block running off the manifold. I used regular vacuum type lines between the wastegates, selonoids, vacuum block. Been running like this for two years with no issues. I did wrap all the lines with same heat wrap used to...

Yea, noticed it on the other pulls as well. I’m not saying it is float but that’s exactly what my graphs looked like when mine were floating. Just because it recovered doesn’t mean it’s not float.