Search results

Still no taper in the runners. This is a pic of the first manifold I did for my 5.4. It's a straight runner like that. Did ok, but not great. I don't have any pics of the second one but changed a few things up tapered the runners and picked up around 40 throughout the range. At the same boost...

No I'm just being an ass. Don't know him doesn't know me don't care. I just follow nmca. I just can't see why anyone that wants high hp would put one of these intakes on. Plenum volume is ok. Runners are to small not enough taper. Sure it will work, but going to have to up the boost to overcome...

Some people are just amazing. Put the crack pipe down.

I doubt it. Find the ad see who is selling, and than look into his car. I really doubt anyone on this site is in the same league as him.

It's already a heated subject over there

They point to the bottom of the pistons. They help cool the piston, and aid in oiling of the wrist pin. When you run certain aftermarket rods you have to take them out as they will hit the rod.

I would step up and get the hd head unit. I don't like the self lubricated. Another part to change oil on. That is one of the reasons I sold my 2200 and bought a v7.

Just be sure to hold out 6 months before you release it.

Don't even have to take the pulley off. Just the seal

From reading some of your posts this would be a good investment for you.

I was able to fit a 12259 in there.

It's tooling marks from roughing them in. I still have to measure the deck height and than cut the deck.

I doubt it will go down. My previous 32v motors were just as expensive to build. Read through this thread on modular fords it's got a lot of useful info on rods, and I agree with a lot of it. When you start pushing those levels it's a roll of the dice it will work, but for how long? And when it...

If I'm not mistaken the aluminator is the same as the production block. Can build one cheaper than buying it. The stock crank is fine that power level. If you could afford it I would bypass the h beams and look at Oliver rods.

This is the hammer spring he recommended. (Don't know anything about the website though first Google hit) http://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/30093-WOLFF-M4-AR15-M16-EXTRA-Power-HAMMER-Spring-WCW30093.htm

Yea it's already got one in it.

That's the one thing I am worried about. The freind that helped me build it recommended a longer firring pin. I think he said it was .015 or .03 longer than the standard pins they use in the conversion. Says it really helps in the misfires. Also that's why we didn't do a drop in so we could go...

Geissele ssa-e enhanced (05-160)

Thanks. I haven't shot it yet, but messing around with it. The phase5 makes it easier for me, as I shoot left handed. (I'm an oddball I'm right handed, but left eye dominant).

Finished