Search results

Got everything back together tonight. I got the last piece today, a shaftmaster's driveshaft. I got it in, took the car for a spin and first thing I noticed was a clicking noise coming from the left side of the vehicle. Took it back home, pulled the rear wheels, pulled the axle nuts and...

Great - thanks for clarifying! Tony

@BMR Tech How much more should a 12.9 bolt be torqued? 129 ft/lbs applies to 10.9 hardware I believe. Thanks, Tony

Got the pinion flange swapped and the turning torque dead on at 35 in/lb as measured from Ford. I basically got the pinion nut started, set my torque wrench to 50 ft/lb and started tightening it until it clicked. I then measured turning torque and moved up in 10 ft/lb increments. Between...

Don wood ford has them for 790.54. Thats where i got mine. Ordered last saturday and got it yesterday. Really nice folks to deal with too. Fordracingpartsbydonwood.com

What power level?

I just read the instructions that came with the flange and they're basically saying swap the pinion flange without disassembly. They include a crush collar just in case the other one gets damaged during the swap. I'm gonna try swapping them straight up. Thanks all for the feedback. Tony

Does anyone know the preload torque measurement range for a pinion with the carrier/ring gear assembly installed? I'm swapping my diff this weekend but need to change the pinion flange from a manual to Automatic. I measured the preload on the assembly straight from Ford Performance and its...

On my 2015, I get the quickest times/best 60s by just keeping it in Drive and mashing the throttle when I want to launch the car. I've tried foot braking it and bringing it up on RPMs but it just runs slower. Not really sure why...

Thanks - the car went 6.95@102 this past weekend with the addition of baer drag brakes on the front and back.

It will work with the factory brake lines but I got some stainless Goodridge lines to put on with them. Everything comes in the kit from Baer including new mounting bolts, copper washers, etc. Tony

It's slipping if its heating up a lot... a tight belt shouldn't heat up that much.

Something isn't right. I've got over 22k on the belt that came with my whipple and it still looks great. Was your belt frayed or showing signs of shredding before it broke? What's your manual tension pulley set to? I've got mine maxed for maximum tension. Tony

I've had similar issues, not as bad, with my car on a couple sets of tires. You'd think you were running 10 degrees of negative camber with the way the front/rear wore on the inside. I'm trying a different setup now on my car with zero toe on the front, -1.2 left/right front then on the back...

Once you upgrade the axles, the next thing to break is either the irs housing (automatics) or the bolts mounting the pumpkin to the irs subframe (manuals). Obviously will take sticky tires and some power but it will happen. Tony

This will drop 60lbs off the front and 40 off the rear. In terms of rotational mass, its around 35-40lb reduction which is pretty significant. You'll definitely gain from them. Tony

That drop in the 1/4 or 1/8th mile ?

So after tearing the front mounts off my diff, I'll be upgrading the bolts when I put it all back together. Any idea what kind of power level it takes to shear the 10.9 or 12.9 hardware? Tony

Update: Prior to grenading the diff housing/driveshaft, the car improved ET in the 1/8th by .12 seconds and mph by 1.29MPH. In the quarter, that's an easy 2 tenths drop and 2.5mph gain from just front/rear brake swap. Pretty good upgrade. Tony

I didn't open the housing. The gears move free. I think it's just tore up the pinion bearing based on the end play slop. It usually takes a lot more to break an 8.8 gear set. Spider gears typically break first then the resulting metal pieces get caught between the pinion and ring gear...