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Mufflers had built in vacuum valves on them, so I just had to buy lines and hardware

THANK YOU

It deals with the effective stiffness and anti-roll properties of the bar. When the bar is parallel with the ground and you turn into a corner (right for this example), the right wheel will travel up along with the swaybar end while the left wheel will travel down. So in other words, the bar...

Adjustable end links allow you to correct the swaybar geometry. Ideally, you want the ends to be parallel to the ground, when you keep the endlink length the same and lower the vehicle, the swaybars are now pointed downwards.

Stage 3 will probably get you over the 500whp mark. If you want something more streetable, stage 1 or 2 should get you there. Get the intake manifold port matched to the heads

I've had mine on for awhile, everything is resolved and the car feels great!

Take them in and get them roadforce balanced, sounds like a tire balancing issue. Unless you bent a rim

Flathead for sure, Can you post a picture of sideshot of the car with the prototype spoiler (like the digital mockup on the first page?)

I'm saying remove the differential bushings, so you are trying to see if the noise goes away after having it close to stock

Sounds like the torsen diff + diff bushings, i'd remove those and re-evaluate.

Cobra jet intake manifold + throttle body is cheaper than the gt350 manifold and has higher HP potential. It made almost 30 more peak HP compared to the gt350 on a dyno test via another website. GT350 intake revs higher and peaks at a higher rpm, while the cobra jet has a lower peak rpm but...

500whp is attainable with the following: Properly sized intake with cobra jet intake manifold --port match cobra jet intake to our 5.0 heads Stage 1 cams Long tubes w/exhaust 47 lb injectors w/ e85 tune Should be slightly over 500whp at 7k.

This doesn't come with the new dark aluminum metal pieces does it?

I like everything but the spoiler, i think a Z28 or Z06 style'd duck tail would look better. Looks out of place

Need these for better front end dial in

I'll post a write up tonight when I am out of class

resolved the issue, the problem was with the coilover design not distributing the load properly on the casting. Modified the OEM bumpstop to work with it

Some more information that I found to be relavant, the shock should be at the middle of its travel at ride height? Apparently lowered vehicles to not usually account for that, so is it possible I have little to no shock travel at my current ride height?

My coilovers blew out the OEM top shock mounts yet again, I believe it is from the shock bottoming out and their bumpstops not being as pliable as the OEM ones. It appears to me that after the springs begin to settle, the shock travels gets reduced compared to when you first bolt the shocks...

I have ISC Coilovers, they have a camber plate on the top and slotted struts on the bottom. Which method below would be the best way to adjust camber and the least likely to fall out of spec? Using OEM Splined Strut bolt on top and torquing it down directly above the bottom bolt, and then...