The shock and coilover spring are separate for the ISC's, the spring and perch is in the normal location, the only thing the mount is supporting is a new shock which was set softer than the default value
Are they just hit or miss from the factory? I just ordered one and it'll be here tomorrow thank god.
So this could just be an OEM part problem and not the coilovers?
The bottom part of the shock would not line up correctly, but that was because the spherical was very stiff and not broken in yet, so I put load on the lower h-arm to compress the shock in order to line up the bottom mounts (load would twist the spherical to orient the correct way)
Other then...
Just finished installing coilovers, took my time over 2 days and did everything 100% correct. Torqued everything to spec, used blue/red loctite where necessary, preloaded the springs properly using a set of calipers for precision, torquing suspension components under loads, everything, you name...
I have been running the new version of the intake for a month now using the OEM MAF and the new intake housing. I still have the old elbow, but they did offer to change it (I don't feel the need to). I really suggest giving this company a second chance, I've been working with Jon from Lund...
I am about to receive my ISC N1 Coilovers, I had a few questions before tackling the install and dial-in:
1.) Where did you set the compression/rebound adjustments as a baseline?
2.) Where did you end up after dialing them in from trial/error?
3.) For those of you with adjustable rear shock...
My mom doesn't mind how my car rides, I have the steeda ultralite springs paired with the PP dampers, and that combination rides a bit harsher than the ford racing combos. I have adjustable coil-overs coming and those will be another different story.
If you are looking for more street...
You're going to have a hard time filling the wheel wells with 18 inch wheels. You'll probably need 20's without lowering. From the factory there's probably a 2ninch wheel gap on the 275/40/19 pirellis. Changing to a 20 would negate .5 of that, and then you'd need to probably fill another .75~ of...
Step 1) Address subframe deflection. BMR, Steeda, or FTBR kit's will work.
Step 2) Toe-to-Knuckle Bearing, Ford Racing or FTBR kit will work.
Step 3) Toe links, BMR, Steeda, FTBR, or Ford Racing will work
Those 3 things should make the rear end feel a lot more communicative with the ground...
Momentum from the engine, light weight harmonic damper, flywheel, and clutch will help this. Part of this is also "safety" from ford so inexperienced drivers don't break it prematurely.. Haven't heard anything about tuners releasing this "rpm hold", I've looked for ages
What tire combinations/sizes are you guys running and what alignment settings? Just want to see what everyone else is doing if you dont mind me asking!
Gloss black, 275/35/19 and 305/35/19
I want a bigger tire up front for road courses / autox, I also want to be able to rotate my tires. It wont be a huge difference, but if i cant get the trade then I'll just deal with what i have until my nitto's are bald.
May be the wrong place to post this, but since all of the people who are interested in this wheel are here:
I have the 19x10 and 19x11 MRR GT350's with NT05's mounted
I'd like to swap to a 19x10 square of this wheel, if anyone has the 4 x 19x10 MRR's without any tires mounted i'm sure we could...