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The stroke of the Voodoo is a lot more than what Ferrari used on their FPC engines. Ferrari has similar bore sizes but the strokes are close to 3" not the 3.66" and that can cause issues with balancing. Maybe it needed a balance shaft to help with the harmonics, but not all FPC engines have...

I noticed my car does have the PP1 front splitter, as well as red stitching throughout. I was thinking I should've gotten the PP option, but glad I didn't since I plan on my own wheels and tires and different brakes.

Had the same issue here, they had a Mach 1 on the show room floor in Grabber Yellow marked up $10k they said they would be willing to sell me. I already turned them down on ordering a GT500 because of the $10k mark up, I wasn't going to pay over sticker on any new car. From what I can tell that...

It's just a silver stipe around the grille, no chrome and both have it, it just shows up more on the PP cars pics.

The only thing I may change about the decal package on mine is to change the red accents on the CS stripes and badging and make them either grabber blue or Gulf racing blue. Similar to what McLaren has done with their F1 and Indy programs.

It's not a cheap color, but compared to the Velocity blue I had, I'll take COM any day, when clean it pops a whole lot more.

I have a new cyber orange metallic car and I can tell you it almost matches a school bus's color exactly. I was next to one of friday and paint between the 2 vehicles looked identical. In the sun the metallic pops, but in the shade it looks like school bus yellow.

The booster is the same, however the master cylinder is different, Ford even has different master cylinder for a PP car over a base car. The GT350 shares the same master cylinder as the base model car though.

I'm no converter specialist but yes I've been told 6-7% is what they want, the setup will ultimately determine what the builder sets it to. I don't think its a friction material issue more as how they position the vanes in the converter itself to get the desired rpm.

Did yo accomodate for converter slip? Most online calculators don't account for slip, which from what I'm told should be 6-7%

For someone like you yes I agree with your results because road racing you'll constantly be moving and introducing fresh air to the filter, but in a drag racing scenario you have to remember the cars are sitting in the staging lanes and once the car gets to the light the IAT can be high. For...

The Gen 2 Coyote has the same valve springs as a Roadrunner, the Gen 3 has better springs than both: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/PDFS/Coyote%20Technical%20Reference2.pdf So spinning it to 8k probably won't hurt them since Comp took that into account when designing those lobes.

Happens all the time, at least Steeda is being open about mods, but some of the claims people are making are such BS.

Minimizing rpm drop and keeping it in the upper rpm band along with consistent shifts and the speed at which is switches gears is all major advantages. Add in a higher stall converter and really you'd be dumb not to use a A10, with that said I'm dumb because I have a MT82, but should this ever...

He might be but his work is top notch, not saying Ripley's isn't but I know his background and I can't argue against his prices.

I have a set of rods that are lighter than stock, but they aren't cheap, it depends on the manufacturer. But yes rebalance is needed regardless imo.

Just for future reference, check out Heideman Racing Dynamics

Spoke with a friend who has done a gen 3 coyote and he said the most they can be honed is .002", depending on how straight the bores are that maybe enough or it may not, only way to tell is to put a tq plate on it and measure. Usually we bore to .003" before we put the final hone on a block. If...

Haven't done a GEN 3 so I don't know about the plasma liners, seen a few sleeved now and a Bear block but no I have not done a GEN 3. But everything still applies, the best I can tell you is if you try this measure everything, TQ it down min of 3 times and break it loose and then remeasure, even...

Even if you get the bobweights where you want, then it leaves oil clearances which are a much bigger deal than the bobweights. Even brand new parts need to be checked and sometimes touched up before assembly because the bores will be off on either rods, sometimes the pistons where the wrist pin...