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I felt the same way when I had my 2019 GT, but this time when I bought my '22 I decided against the manual and I don't regret it at all. Did some spirited driving with a friend and he has a manual and I can keep up with his car with no issues and he was tuned with full exhaust, I was stock so...

Ford is usually behind about a year because they are going to get the tune CARB certified for all 50 states. Luckily I live in a free state and Lund just finished my tune yesterday, I can feel a slight gain in performance but the biggest difference is the A10 shift commands. I'm happy it's no...

He isn't worried about winning or losing at this point, just the e.t.. OP if you had a more drag friendly wheel and tire combo then you'll be faster, but 20" wheels are not helping. You can try lowering the air press but I doubt it will help, maybe a few hundredths.

You can get away with GT350 axles for now to save a bunch of money since adding power is years away. Either Steeda, BMR, and UPR have complete kits to stop wheel hop. Get a hold of beefcake for tire and wheel combos as he has them in stock because I just bought some drag wheels and tires from...

I would make it hook before adding any power, wheel hop is what is killing parts, at least for N/A cars. So drive it 100% stock and get a feel for what it will do, then add tires and do it again, if the tires stick and not hop then move on to the next mod suspension or power, if it does hop...

Build it for the power you plan on now because changing rods out isn't as simple as you make it sound and requires a rebalance due to I-beam being lighter than H-beams. Sleeving is going to be your best bet for the power you have in mind because even stock blocks will be done around 1200hp...

You know this for a fact? Human hair is about .003"

Now that makes more sense, when you aren't putting it under load then octane doesn't matter, but if you are racing then I would highly recommend premium octane.

Yes you can use 87 octane but to race on 87 octane is not recommended, you are putting the engine under severe load and premium is recommended to keep it out of detonation.

The way I see it, it is a cheaper alternative to a cat-back especially now with the prices being so high. It's all just for sound anyway, not like cat-backs are adding a lot of power.

Run E85 if you can support it, ie fuel system. The easiest way to look at it is if the tune is commanding XX timing and it is already seeing that timing on your current fuel, aside from the oxygenated stuff, going to a leaded race gas will not add power because you are already seeing max...

Running leaded fuel shortens the life of the O2 sensors, but running a higher octane fuel will act as a safety net and keep you from detonating. But if you are not detonating now then there is very little to be gained putting higher octane in the tank, unless it is a oxygenated fuel like Q16, or...

I don't see why, Lund confirmed to me this morning that they are tuning them. Not sure about the MAF and fuel tables but I'm also not a tuner, I'll happily pay someone for that until I decide to put effort into learning how to do it, but I'm happier building vs tuning.

Lund can tune the 2022's, they said its the MAF and fueling tables to some extent that are different. That answer was good enough for me to go ahead and order everything.

I just put a email into a tuner this morning about it, real curious because I've heard rumors of 2022 being locked. If not then I want to get the car tuned and possibly a vortech on it right away.

Possibly clean up from some damage or just to give the rings a fresh surface to seal to, .020" won't make significantly more power. But when done with a tq plate properly the bores will be round so sealing with new rings will be improved and more power can be found through all of that over...

Min over bore like the OP is discussing is OK, but to cut out the old sleeves and install aftermarket ones isn't cheap, unless he is going to really push it which doesn't sound like it then he will be OK. Anything over 4 digit wheel HP I would sleeve the block, at that point its just a matter of...

I don't recall Gen 2 having the coating sprayed in, I think that was a Gen 3 block only.

Gen 2 block not Gen 3.

I don't doubt the video is correct, I'm just saying that the FPC engines I see that run well and high rpm aren't built like the Voodoo. They have short service intervals, shorter strokes, and dampen harmonics to the valvetrain as much as possible. I think HB is going in the right direction with...