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Where are the turbos located? Are you able to spin the blade by hand? See if it has any play in any axis. Forced induction is a totally different animal. Since even a small problem can equal a huge discrepancy between how much air the ECU expects vs how much it's getting. Also check the MAF...

You're also going to need to drive it to get all the monitors to a ready state.

Check all the hoses. It sounds like one of the couplings may have popped off. Go from the turbo all the way to the throttle body. I bet you'll find a massive leak.

AKA try to commit fraud? Wouldn't matter anyway. The dealer would see that there's only a few key cycle on the ECU. That's a telltale sign of a tune.

Undercoating will do nothing for galvanic corrosion. Unless you can get the coating in between the steel and aluminum, you can't prevent dissimilar metals from corroding. I'm glad they're giving you a new hood because even if sanded and repainted, that area will always corrode. No way to...

Was the hood wet when you took pics? Because there's quite a few paint bubbles I see (besides the edge area) which look like overspray. The bubble on the edge has been happening since mid 2000s. Ford still hasn't gotten their shit together.

It's not normal and requires replacement.

I'd watch this and make up your mind. Honestly the Walmart's Everstart Maxx and Autozone's Duralast Gold would be my choice, but the others in the vid aren't too bad either. If you want to save some weight, you can look into lithium battery, but be prepared to spend a few hundred.

Fixing swirl marks is one thing, having to have a shop fix larger scratches is totally unacceptable for a new car. You're being forced to remove parts of the already thin clear coat, leaving you with less material to work with in the future.

Just know that if something stupid is done by the body shop, it's going to be between you and them. The dealer will wash their hands clean once they give the car to them.

I wouldn't bring this back to their body shop. Best case scenario, they decline the work. Worst case scenario, they just put some shitty putty there and touch it up and cause more damage in the process.

Ah ok, in that case it's an unrelated mod. I have nothing but awesome things to say about MGW, I'm currently using it in my car.

Did you have the grinding noise before you put the MGW in? It sounds like it only happened after you installed the aftermarket shifter. If that's the case, they're 100% in the right to deny the warranty because it sounds like the shifter caused it.

It depends on what failed on the car. If it overheated and siezed, then maybe they messed up the radiator or fluid. If you damaged something internally in the engine, you'll have a hard time proving the dealership did it.

Your best bet is to test the MAF plug with a multimeter. Maybe your voltage is too high or too low for the MAF to operate properly. The MAF sensor works by heating up a filament and then detecting the temperature change via measuring the resistance of the filament. If the voltage isn't stable...

The only good thing is that it happened early on and not when you had some mods that could have been blamed for the failure by Ford.

Another thing you can try is removing the rubber weatherstripping under the back of the hood. That'll let more air escape without creating a pressure spike.

If your hood latch and the hinges are tight, then this is happening because there's too much air getting under the hood. The air needs somewhere to go and it's lifting the hood. Looks like you have a GT350 front bumper. Was this happening before you put that on?

I hear the slightest whistling sound around 3 and 4 second mark. It sounds like the air intake actually. My JLT had the same sound as well. Take the intake off and see if the throttle body is dirty at all. A dirty throttle body can also cause whistling sounds. I'm positive it's your intake...

That's how the BBQ tick starts. After an oil change. That's how mine did it and how countless others on the forum as well.