BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[NGOT8R]

I received the repaired coolant reservoir/catch tank back yesterday. I‘m very pleased with the repair. Of course, I tested it this morning to see if it would hold pressure and as expected, it passed .

In other news, I finally got the correct size serpentine belt (39.5” for those, who may want to switch to an electric water pump of some sort down the road).

The custom made oil feed and drain lines arrived today, so I was able to connect those to the oil pressure regulator, filter and oil pan.

My wife seems more excited than I am for me to finish the car. She’s been bringing me miscellaneous parts to the shop that were delivered today. She told me that she likes the distressed look of the coolant reservoir/catch tank and cold side piping and says, “it looks mean!” and suggested that I leave it as is.

I struggle with that suggestion though and feel like at the very least, I should have everything blasted and then install it permanently with no coating. TBH, I’m nervous about even letting these parts out of my sight for too long because they’re all custom now and having to duplicate them again because of a mishap would be a nightmare that I don’t wish to have.

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

Some small, but necessary details were completed today. I finished up the connection of my oil pressure regulator hoses. I tied the regulator oil feed line into the oil cooler output line, by using a -10AN single female/double male tee and a -10AN female to -4AN male adapter.

While I was at it, I decided to add a 0-100 psi pressure transducer to the regulator 1/8 NPT port. I ordered a direct fit connector from DigiKey for the back of my nGauge’s 5V accessory port. The pressure transducer’s harness (which I insulated with silicone/fiberglass heat sleeve), will be plugged into the nGauge accessory port. This will allow me to read actual oil pressure coming out of the regulator after it is reduced from the factory 75-95 psi, to 40-45 psi. This way, I can always verify that I have oil feeding the turbo and adequate pressure.

I also installed the oil filter today and will add oil to the engine tomorrow. I’m praying for no leaks here. Not gonna lie, I have never been 100% comfortable with having to add the -10AN turbo oil drain bung to the pan, although it does have two washers with incorporated rubber seals, but it still rotates a little from the rigidness and slight tension from the large drain line. For good measure, I zip-tied the drain line to the electric water pump’s coolant line that is running across the front of the k-member, to prevent movement. I hope this is a good seal.

 

[wingnutt]

While I was at it, I decided to add a 0-100 psi pressure transducer to the regulator 1/8 NPT port. This way, I can always verify that I have oil feeding the turbo and adequate pressure.

ok, partially knowledgeable mechanical question…why?

does the nGauge not like 100-ish psi?

if it was me, I would have an oil psi and boost gauge (with memory) front and center…oh wait, I do

 

[NGOT8R]

ok, partially knowledgeable mechanical question…why?

does the nGauge not like 100-ish psi?

if it was me, I would have an oil psi and boost gauge (with memory) front and center…oh wait, I do

The nGauge wouldn’t have a problem reading those pressures, but the turbo sure would. Factory pressure would blow out the seals. I had seen a post somewhere that allows the nGauge to monitor oil pressure and figured it would be nice to separate the turbo oil pressure reading from the factory pressure, rather than trying to find a spot for a gauge that monitors pressure post regulator. Not much room inside for mounting stuff. If this doesn’t work out, I’ll be sourcing a small rectangular digital pressure gauge.

I do have a factory gauge to monitor engine oil pressure and the eBoost2 though.

 

[NGOT8R]

Today, I wrapped up the wheel wells and installed the wheels to test for clearance by turning the steering wheel hard left and right. Unfortunately, there is contact with one of the tranny’s external fluid pump lines on the driver’s side and contact with the corner of the PCM and the harness for one of PCM connectors on the passenger side. There is also very slight contact with the corner of the forward harness that goes through the 4” hole that I drilled in the inner fender for the partial wire tuck.

Maybe tomorrow, I’ll lower the car onto the ground and see if clearance improves, as that’s what’s most important. I may still get lucky, but I should probably prepare myself to make adjustments JIC .

 

[NGOT8R]

Ok, I just checked it again on the ground and I get 3/4 of a rotation to full stop in both directions and I now have ample clearance (maybe 1/2”). Whew! I do want to reroute the harness for the PCM connector for peace of mind, as the wheel well liner touches it, but it’s not tight against it. I don’t want any contact anywhere if I can help it.

 

[NGOT8R]

I know many of you are ready for me to wrap up this build and I can assure you all, that no one is more ready than me. I’ve still been working behind the scenes and have completed a couple more things.

Some of you may recall a few posts back that I had installed a 0-100 PSI pressure transducer from the turbo oil pressure regulator and was preparing to wire it to the nGauge’s analog port on the back of the gauge. Well, today, I’m happy to report that this mod was a success. I was a little worried at first because the initial scaling was way off and giving me a -10.6 PSI reading. After some rescaling, the gauge now reads 1.6 PSI with the key on. After some deep research and additional testing, I am confident that the install and wiring are solid and the low reading is within the + or - 1%-2% variance range of the transducer.

For anyone looking to utilize their nGauge’s analog port, I would like to point out that I initially started with a 6 pin Molex pigtail, which I had to modify, as three of the ports on the connector did not line up properly with a couple of the pins in the nGauge’s port. I could clearly that see this was a manufacturing defect, as three of the pin housings on the connector were a bit deformed (not arrow straight). This wasn’t a big deal for me, as I only needed to use one analog signal (although the gauge can support two). My fix was to simply trim off the three deformed pin housings and locking tab, as there was nothing for the tab to lock onto.

 

[NGOT8R]

In other news, I performed a smoke test on the intake manifold, as well as a pressure test of the coolant system and they both passed. I would have liked to have sealed the tb opening, but didn’t have a cap large enough to install there, so the next best thing to do was, tape it up. Of course smoke will always find the path of least resistance, which were the tape seams. There were no leaks from the intake manifold runners, lid, snout, vacuum manifold or the numerous vacuum lines .

 

[Headless Horseman]

In other news, I performed a smoke test on the intake manifold, as well as a pressure test of the coolant system and they both passed. I would have liked to have sealed the tb opening, but didn’t have a cap large enough to install there, so the next best thing to do was, tape it up. Of course smoke will always find the path of least resistance, which were the tape seams. There were no leaks from the intake manifold runners, lid, snout, vacuum manifold or the numerous vacuum lines .

Ive been following but I must've missed it. Are you're running Nitrous and Turbo?

 

[NGOT8R]

I know I’m probably the exception to this next upcoming mod and doubt many would ever do this, but I ordered billet aluminum motor mounts from Dynosty. I’m currently awaiting new OEM hardware to mount them to the k-member.

Disclaimer: I fully expect NVH to increase considerably and I’m prepared to accept this. Why am I doing this? I am doing this because I‘ve already had to replace one red puck on my Steeda mounts after it mushroomed while naturally aspirated and I can’t risk having another one fail. If that were to happen, it would surely result in my expensive headers making contact with the frame rails. I figured locking the motor down was the best solution to prevent this. Note: I do have MMR engine block braces on the car and hope that they will continue to perform as intended and prevent any damage to the block or transmission housing ears.

 

[NGOT8R]

Ive been following but I must've missed it. Are you're running Nitrous and Turbo?

Yes, a small shot (40-50 hp) to help spool the turbo if needed).

 

[NGOT8R]

I’m also in the middle of mounting a scramble button and relocating my clutch slipper’s activation button to the steering wheel. I would have had this done already, but I wasn’t happy with the small dual button mount that I ordered initially, so I ordered an individual left and right mounts.

I’ll be using TheGaugeMount passthrough kit.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1AyqAj2vKC2eKe_066OdntXfsFiotajVvgVqRGSoDbdo/edit?tab=t.0

Here are some disassembly and preparation photos of that process.

 

[HKusp]

Adrian, you sound like you're from 'Nawlins...

 

[NGOT8R]

Adrian, you sound like you're from 'Nawlins...

Lol, I was born and raised in Kansas City, but I’ve heard that many times before, as well as NY and GA.

 

[NGOT8R]

Today, I pulled the Steeda adjustable motor mounts and installed the billet aluminum mounts. This was the best move I could have made here. As you can see, I gained back at least 1/2” of clearance almost everywhere. No more worrying about bushings mushrooming.

I’m not knocking the Steeda mounts, as they have served me well for the past 5 years, with only one red bushing mushrooming. It was time to go for peace of mind now.

It’s time to order some mouth guards to keep my teeth from clattering now .

Sponsored