2021 Mustang Mach 1 dual/compromised use street and HPDE sway bar input

[RobZ71LM7]

Hey all I have a ‘21 Mach 1 with handling package parts and some aftermarket parts for better alignment. I do maybe 4-8 track days a year and run 200TW 305’s square. For my purposes I need to keep at or close to factory ride height and good ride while keeping the dust boot. I’m running HP rear springs (742) and GT500 CFTP front springs (268) that I just mounted on the struts. I haven’t installed the struts yet so this a prime time to upgrade the front sway bar. I just so happen to have a Steeda front bar, but the factory Mach 1 bar is a bonded bushing bar. I’ve heard this is to help on center feel, but I’ve also heard it is to help add spring rate in bump (bonded so there is resistance not just in roll). Would it be a bad idea to ditch the factory bonded bar when running soft/compromised front springs? Obviously the steeda bar would greatly increase roll stiffness in the front, but would I miss the added rate? Right now it’s easy to swap bars since struts are out.

With the factory HP setup I felt the car a little too loose, including some corner entry oversteer. I could drive around this, but I feel it could be better.


Factory front sway bar
GT500 CFTP 268# front springs
Steeda camber plates and enlarged opening
-3.5 camber
Zero toe

HP 742# rear springs
24mm solid HP rear sway bar
BMR CB005
AAD camber arms
AAD vertical links
Cortex toe links
Ford Perfomance toe knuckle bearing
-2.0 camber
0.24* total toe in

305/30/19 200TW tires square on 19x11’s

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[Turbeau]

Which front bar do you have? I upgraded the factory bar on my 22 HP with the Steeda adjustable unit and am very happy with the outcome. One suggestion is if you're in there ensure your stock end links are not tweaked/bent, etc. I discovered one of mine was no longer straight (while switching from the stock bar).

 

[RobZ71LM7]

Which front bar do you have? I upgraded the factory bar on my 22 HP with the Steeda adjustable unit and am very happy with the outcome. One suggestion is if you're in there ensure your stock end links are not tweaked/bent, etc. I discovered one of mine was no longer straight (while switching from the stock bar).

I have the competition front and rear. I won’t be running the rear. The front is their regular adjustable one. My endlinks are straight but that would be temporary-I’d replace them before tracking it.

 

[Grintch]

I would talk to Steeda. But in general I wouldn't run a front (or rear) only bar that is bought as (intended for use as) a set. If I wanted to tighten up the car, if would just adjust them to stiff/soft. The rates from stock to aftermarket bars can be very different such that they don't mix and match well.

Yeah, FS guys, I run Strano bars that are designed to only replace one end when restricted to Street, only 1 bar can be replaced rules.

 

[KilgoreLSU]

I run the setup that Steeda did for their Mach 1 mule. Variable Rate Springs, Front and Rear Sway Bar, stop the hop kit with some other parts that go with it.. I use SPL Lower Control Arms up front and rear upper arms.. Vorshlag camber plates..

I set the sway bars up to their recommendation. The car is rock solid and very predictable. I'm still gaining speed to reach the true limits of what car is capable of. It feels better than stock all around.

My alignment is same as yours.. Tire Setup is the Same...

I'm able to bring power induce oversteer when I want to.. I don't find I run into understeer unless I'm just going way too fast.. but that's where I'm learning the limits of braking and tire grip. I don't have wheel hop at all..

Steeda springs only lowered my car maybe 3/4" if that.

 

[tj@steeda]

I run the setup that Steeda did for their Mach 1 mule. Variable Rate Springs, Front and Rear Sway Bar, stop the hop kit with some other parts that go with it.. I use SPL Lower Control Arms up front and rear upper arms.. Vorshlag camber plates..

I set the sway bars up to their recommendation. The car is rock solid and very predictable. I'm still gaining speed to reach the true limits of what car is capable of. It feels better than stock all around.

My alignment is same as yours.. Tire Setup is the Same...

I'm able to bring power induce oversteer when I want to.. I don't find I run into understeer unless I'm just going way too fast.. but that's where I'm learning the limits of braking and tire grip. I don't have wheel hop at all..

Steeda springs only lowered my car maybe 3/4" if that.

That is awesome to hear - we appreciate the feedback!

 

[NightmareMoon]

Hey all I have a ‘21 Mach 1 with handling package parts and some aftermarket parts for better alignment. I do maybe 4-8 track days a year and run 200TW 305’s square. For my purposes I need to keep at or close to factory ride height and good ride while keeping the dust boot. I’m running HP rear springs (742) and GT500 CFTP front springs (268) that I just mounted on the struts. I haven’t installed the struts yet so this a prime time to upgrade the front sway bar. I just so happen to have a Steeda front bar, but the factory Mach 1 bar is a bonded bushing bar. I’ve heard this is to help on center feel, but I’ve also heard it is to help add spring rate in bump (bonded so there is resistance not just in roll). Would it be a bad idea to ditch the factory bonded bar when running soft/compromised front springs? Obviously the steeda bar would greatly increase roll stiffness in the front, but would I miss the added rate? Right now it’s easy to swap bars since struts are out.

With the factory HP setup I felt the car a little too loose, including some corner entry oversteer. I could drive around this, but I feel it could be better.


Factory front sway bar
GT500 CFTP 268# front springs
Steeda camber plates and enlarged opening
-3.5 camber
Zero toe

HP 742# rear springs
24mm solid HP rear sway bar
BMR CB005
AAD camber arms
AAD vertical links
Cortex toe links
Ford Perfomance toe knuckle bearing
-2.0 camber
0.24* total toe in

305/30/19 200TW tires square on 19x11’s

I'm a little surprised the factory setup was loose for you on entry.

Anyway, yes, its a good time to throw in a front bar if you can. The stiffer bar will make up for what you loose with the bonded mounts. Do it!

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