Rust on wheel hubs

[myles2go]

Keep them torqued 135-145 lb/ft.

But I believe the proper torque spec is 150 lb/ft.

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[JAJ]

But I believe the proper torque spec is 150 lb/ft.

That's on a clean, dry wheel stud. If there's WD40 or anti-seize on the threads, you have to lower the torque or you can damage the stud.

 

[Optimum Performance]

But I believe the proper torque spec is 150 lb/ft.

We were referring to our studs, not the OEM ones.

 

[JAJ]

Do you mean the diagram of a mag ride doesn't have a cap?

The diagram shows an S550 rear floating-caliper brake assembly for a GT or an Ecoboost model. A GT350 uses different running gear than the rest of the S550 product line and there are no caps on either axle because the hub design doesn't allow it.

 

[jheissjr]

A GT350 uses different running gear than the rest of the S550 product line and there are no caps on either axle because the hub design doesn't allow it.

Understood. It seems the Ford parts system is misleading because it lists a cap in the parts list and diagram for a VIN of a mag ride 350. Why doesn't a cap fit a mag ride hub?

 

[honeybadger]

Keep them torqued 135-145 lb/ft.

Also known as first shoulder pop or 2.5 ugga duggas

On a serious note - best studs in the business. Love the GT4 hubs. the nascar lugnuts are awesome too. those bright yellow suckers are so easy to find when you yeet them int the stratosphere you forgot how hot they were

 

[JAJ]

Understood. It seems the Ford parts system is misleading because it lists a cap in the parts list and diagram for a VIN of a mag ride 350. Why doesn't a cap fit a mag ride hub?

It's a quirk in the parts system on the website you're on. I went to Levittown and got the same result, but when I scrolled down the page, I saw this, Diagram 2, which is thee correct one:

 

[Hack]

Ok, looking for thoughts on a thought I had recently when taking off wheels after a wash.

As you can see from the photos, the center of the rotors (the hub? Not sure the exact title for that specific area) has a ton of surface rust that just kinda looks nasty.

Of course, it is cosmetic only and is hidden when the wheel is on. It probably is related to 1) the car spending time in IL with the first two owners and 2) the area holding water after a wash (and presumably also rain)

Would taking a wire wheel to it or some other cleaning method be a pointless endeavor? I would think removing surface rust could only be a positive (unless it's taking off too much material) but I'm not sure.

Just kinda getting an urge to spruce her up a bit. Need to polish the exhaust tips too (not a euphemism)

Most rust is cosmetic, but rust on the outside of the hub can make it annoying to remove the rotor if the hub gets too rusty.

Part of the reason it's rusty is the bare aluminum rotor has a bit of a galvanic reaction with steel. What I usually do is use a wire brush or wire wheel on the outside of the hub and a little bit of anti-seize on the steel. And if the rotor is ever replaced, I'd do the same to the face of the hub.

I wouldn't worry too much about the underside of the car. Most of the underside has pretty good anti-rust coating. What I do on cars that see salt is spray lanolin on them. It's a natural product that stays moist and flexible and it lasts a long time before coming off. I usually spray it once a year on my winter cars. Wool wax is one of the lanolin products out there you can use for rust prevention.

I would avoid using lanolin on a car that sees track use, though. Just another thing to get hot and smell bad under the car. I'd just keep the underside clean.

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