BL Fabrications 88/96 turbo install on 2019 Bullitt

[nameuser]

Getting close!!!

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[80FoxCoupe]

You are doing great work @NGOT8R !

 

[NGOT8R]

Dang! I don’t know for sure what it feels like to be hit in the mouth by Mike Tyson, but I think I have an idea now. I made another attempt (first attempt was last night), to pack the chute by myself a little bit ago and the spring loaded pilot chute slipped off to the right side and caught me on the whole right side of my mouth with an uppercut ! Man that hurt like a mofo to get hit in the mouth with a 45# spring! I had to call in Cus D’Amato (wife) to help me get back in the fight .

We got it done though. This is definitely a 2 person job. The people that do it solo are crazy. Whether people want to admit it or not, I’m sure I’m not the first victim here that has received a blow like that.

 

[NGOT8R]

I was happy to find the perfect spot for relocating my external transmission fluid pump. I was really worried about having to remake lines, but didn’t have to do any of that. Unfortunately, I was only able to drill the frame and use three of the mounting holes because the k-member is right behind the top right isolator. My OCD isn’t happy with me about that, but it is what it is. The to do list is getting shorter and shorter.

• Motor mount brackets
• Lube and install Steeda motor mounts
• Clean Di ports on heads and install injectors, hard lines and Di pump
• Install turbo oil drain fitting in oil pan
• Raise and retorque k-member
• Raise tranny and retorque crossmember bolts
• Install vacuum block
• Prep Holley IM for vacuum hoses
• Fabricate brake lines
• Eboost2 wiring
• Delta PAG wiring
• Davies Craig wiring
• Install Fluidampr
• Finish VaporWorx PWM wiring
• Reinstall head cooling mod hose
• Pressure test coolant reservoir/catch tank (failed test - water leaked from coolant side of tank into catch can side of tank at 16 psi)
• Install MMR -16AN water pump delete plate
• Cut intercooler piping (driver’s side)
• Cut tb charge pipe and drill for weld on 1/8 NPT weld on nitrous bung
• Drill compressor outlet pipe for 1/8 NPT weld on bung (boost reference)
• Cut and reshape driver’s side inner fender to clear exhaust pipe
• Drill driver’s side fender for flexible brake lines
• Cut 2” hole in driver’s side inner frame rail to clear turbo exhaust flange
• Measure length needed for flexible brake lines (36” & 22”)
• Make lines for coolant tank
• Install O-ring in AC delete plate on firewall
• Reinstall alternator
• Remove oil filter adapter
• Remove factory oil cooler
• Make vacuum lines
• Install spade connectors on wiring for MAC valve
• Install fittings in wastegates and BOV
• Drill (enlarge) turbo mounting flange holes
• Install eboost2 gauge in dash vent
• Install two NPT plugs in IM snout
• Install oil pressure sensor adapter and oil filter mounting plate
• Drill coolant neck for temp. sensor weld on bung
• Reinstall and torque starter
• Install fuel pressure sensor in passenger side fuel rail
• Install port injectors
• Weld cold side piping, IC brackets and coolant neck
• Tighten brake line fittings
• Make coolant lines
• Install fuel pressure sensor wiring harness
• Install o2 sensor extension harness
• Install MAF sensor extension harness
• Torque IM
• Install parachute mount
• Install parachute lever
• Change fuel line fitting
• Assemble fuel filter
• Make new push lock fuel lines from Radium 3 way, to rails and Di pump
• Install fuel pressure regulator
• Connect driver’s side wiring harness to all applicable sensors
• Fabricate bracket to mount fan and EWP controllers
• Bleed brakes
• Relocate PCM
• Relocate external fluid pump
• Mount oil cooler heat exchanger
• Repair or replace coolant/catch tank (fabricator currently has this and is looking into the possibility of repairing it)
• Install interior trim and seats
• Purchase laptop and tuning device and have car tuned
• Sand blast cold side piping
• Weld holes in parachute mount and re-drill
• Weld parachute mount tag bracket
• Install turbo oil feed and drain lines

 

[masonhoare9]

Car is in the ground moving! Taking it to a shop to get wired and hopefully in 2-3 weeks i will have a fully dialed in 93 tune and report back.

 

[HKusp]

I was happy to find the perfect spot for relocating my external transmission fluid pump. I was really worried about having to remake lines, but didn’t have to do any of that. Unfortunately, I was only able to drill the frame and use three of the mounting holes because the k-member is right behind the top right isolator. My OCD isn’t happy with me about that, but it is what it is. The to do list is getting shorter and shorter.

• Motor mount brackets
• Lube and install Steeda motor mounts
• Clean Di ports on heads and install injectors, hard lines and Di pump
• Install turbo oil drain fitting in oil pan
• Raise and retorque k-member
• Raise tranny and retorque crossmember bolts
• Install vacuum block
• Prep Holley IM for vacuum hoses
• Fabricate brake lines
• Eboost2 wiring
• Delta PAG wiring
• Davies Craig wiring
• Install Fluidampr
• Finish VaporWorx PWM wiring
• Reinstall head cooling mod hose
• Pressure test coolant reservoir/catch tank (failed test - water leaked from coolant side of tank into catch can side of tank at 16 psi)
• Install MMR -16AN water pump delete plate
• Cut intercooler piping (driver’s side)
• Cut tb charge pipe and drill for weld on 1/8 NPT weld on nitrous bung
• Drill compressor outlet pipe for 1/8 NPT weld on bung (boost reference)
• Cut and reshape driver’s side inner fender to clear exhaust pipe
• Drill driver’s side fender for flexible brake lines
• Cut 2” hole in driver’s side inner frame rail to clear turbo exhaust flange
• Measure length needed for flexible brake lines (36” & 22”)
• Make lines for coolant tank
• Install O-ring in AC delete plate on firewall
• Reinstall alternator
• Remove oil filter adapter
• Remove factory oil cooler
• Make vacuum lines
• Install spade connectors on wiring for MAC valve
• Install fittings in wastegates and BOV
• Drill (enlarge) turbo mounting flange holes
• Install eboost2 gauge in dash vent
• Install two NPT plugs in IM snout
• Install oil pressure sensor adapter and oil filter mounting plate
• Drill coolant neck for temp. sensor weld on bung
• Reinstall and torque starter
• Install fuel pressure sensor in passenger side fuel rail
• Install port injectors
• Weld cold side piping, IC brackets and coolant neck
• Tighten brake line fittings
• Make coolant lines
• Install fuel pressure sensor wiring harness
• Install o2 sensor extension harness
• Install MAF sensor extension harness
• Torque IM
• Install parachute mount
• Install parachute lever
• Change fuel line fitting
• Assemble fuel filter
• Make new push lock fuel lines from Radium 3 way, to rails and Di pump
• Install fuel pressure regulator
• Connect driver’s side wiring harness to all applicable sensors
• Fabricate bracket to mount fan and EWP controllers
• Bleed brakes
• Relocate PCM
• Relocate external fluid pump
• Mount oil cooler heat exchanger
• Repair or replace coolant/catch tank (fabricator currently has this and is looking into the possibility of repairing it)
• Install interior trim and seats
• Purchase laptop and tuning device and have car tuned
• Sand blast cold side piping
• Weld holes in parachute mount and re-drill
• Weld parachute mount tag bracket
• Install turbo oil feed and drain lines

That is one hell of a list. You are in the hoe stretch, though. Should be ready to fire up soon.

 

[NGOT8R]

That is one hell of a list. You are in the hoe stretch, though. Should be ready to fire up soon.

I’m trying to get there as quickly as possible.

 

[Timbuck]

Trying but , I guess you got stuck on the HOE stretch. It happens to the best of us

 

[HKusp]

Trying but , I guess you got stuck on the HOE stretch. It happens to the best of us

It can be a hoe sometimes.

 

[NGOT8R]

It can be a hoe sometimes.

Fo sho!

 

[wingnutt]

 

[NGOT8R]

More mockup today. The bumper initially fit like a ventriloquist‘s dummy’s chin (sticking out) with the plastic bumper support installed, so I had to remove it.

I also had to clock the top vacuum port on the driver’s side wastegate for more clearance from the radiator. I wanted to do the same for the bottom port too, but for some reason it just wouldn’t move no matter what I tried, it barely clears though. I think it Was either tight tolerances or what appeared to be red/pink loctite used in the manufacturing process

I’ll need to revisit the fog light harness which runs over top of the exhaust. I may just have to wrap it with a few layers of heat rated Tesa Tape and call it good. The coating on the exhaust should also help with heat management.

I still have lots of minor details to tackle while I regroup and save a little change to buy the remainder of the stuff needed to complete the build.

 

[NGOT8R]

I forgot to add that clearancing was needed on the belly pan as well, to clear the oil cooler heat exchanger which hangs about an inch lower than the intercooler. Easy fix though.

 

[NGOT8R]

I received some great news from my welder/fabricator today! He’s currently pulling off a miracle on the leaking BL Fabrications coolant reservoir/catch tank. We think this is gonna seal it up nicely and allow me to use it. Awaiting two new bungs, in order to wrap things up. Once I get it back, I’ll take it, along with the cold side piping to have everything blasted and recoated.

 

[NGOT8R]

Looks like I might be back in business! I just received these updated pics of the tank. A little sand blasting and some powder coating should make it look nice again.

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