Gen 2 Coyote Timing Job

[GTharmony]

Is your goal just to freshen things up a bit and add goodies while in there? I didn’t see valve springs on your list. Maybe they’re not needed for your application. I do hear you on the “while I’m in there“ mentality. That’s what I Did too.

When you get to tearing things down, would you please get some good pics of your intake runners? I want to see how they look with the number of miles you’ve logged on the engine.

Little backstory first that I haven't full touched on in this post. This all started because of a terrible noise (that has progressively gotten worse) that the car developed at 2k rpm. Goes from 2k to around 3500-4000 in pretty much every gear except 6th, and is only starts to present after the engine has warmed up.

Video of noise from inside car:


Video from outside:


Took it to a mechanic friend, who did not have time to pull apart the engine, but tried his best to diagnose. He said he thought it was the IMRCs. I have a GT350 IM that I installed maybe a year ago, and have put less than 8k miles on. So, pulled the IM off the car, inspected the runners, and they looked perfectly fine. No play in them at all. Went ahead and locked them out, but the noise did not go away unfortunately. I also went from running 5W-20 to 5W-30 oil w/ Ceratec and it made no difference.

This lead me to pulling off the passenger side valve cover, and finding slack in the chain (from the video a couple of posts up), and now here we are.

I have had plans to throw on a supercharger, and have been slowly building towards that. Was going to do headers next, but this has unfortunately gotten in the way. The goal has been now to fix the noise I have been dealing with, but now that I know it has something to do with the chains, I want to go ahead and replace all the timing related components while I am in there, as well as upgrade the OPG and CSS which I know (at least the OPG) have issues. I want to keep the car a street build, at least that's the current plan. The car isn't daily driven so the plan may change eventually. I will likely after putting a supercharger on throw supercharger cams on, and potentially lock out the phasers, but that is so far out at the moment I haven't put much thought into it.

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[OldbutNew]

The 350 low-leak phasers are a straight swap.
The GT500 sprocket that comes in the above mentioned Ford Racing kit is the same as the MMR billet.
BTW, I agree that just buying this kit is the way to go. Sole-source for all this stuff will minimize any compatibility issues.

 

[GTharmony]

The 350 low-leak phasers are a straight swap.
The GT500 sprocket that comes in the above mentioned Ford Racing kit is the same as the MMR billet.
BTW, I agree that just buying this kit is the way to go. Sole-source for all this stuff will minimize any compatibility issues.

Do you know if I can still do the MMR secondary tensioner flip bracket with that kit? I know the newer tensioners don't work with it, still seems like something worth doing if going supercharged, as well as the high flow oil pick up tube, unless that would just be unnecessary.

 

[GTharmony]

Do you know if I can still do the MMR secondary tensioner flip bracket with that kit? I know the newer tensioners don't work with it, still seems like something worth doing if going supercharged, as well as the high flow oil pick up tube, unless that would just be unnecessary.

and as far as the OPG, that seems like a definite do as well from what I have read. Though I know some people recommend the Boundary over the MMR.

 

[OldbutNew]

Do you know if I can still do the MMR secondary tensioner flip bracket with that kit? I know the newer tensioners don't work with it, still seems like something worth doing if going supercharged, as well as the high flow oil pick up tube, unless that would just be unnecessary.

Should work fine.
MMR does offer two to cover the shorter tensioners. Just make sure you get the right one.
The high-flow PU tube is.... It's not that it's unnecessary. It was sized because Ford testing requirements include starting the engines at ridiculously low temps. Like with your F150 DD, not a GT500 with a high volume oil pump. Dragging 5W-50 oil at -20F is easier through a bigger tube. Yes, I know the "5W" part is the cold flow number. You do the -20F comparison 20mm vs. 25mm.

 

[GTharmony]

Should work fine.
MMR does offer two to cover the shorter tensioners. Just make sure you get the right one.
The high-flow PU tube is.... It's not that it's unnecessary. It was sized because Ford testing requirements include starting the engines at ridiculously low temps. Like with your F150 DD, not a GT500 with a high volume oil pump. Dragging 5W-50 oil at -20F is easier through a bigger tube. Yes, I know the "5W" part is the cold flow number. You do the -20F comparison 20mm vs. 25mm.

I’m not sure if that kit is the shorter tensioner or not. I will have to look into it. I will likely still do the PU tube since I plan on going supercharged but it may require an aftermarket oil pump. It’s recommend to do the tube if doing a billet OPG from what I have read

 

[GTharmony]

NGOT8R
I almost have everything a part, but I wanted to ask, did you use any special crankshaft tools? I plan on just holding the cams with vice grips and using a socket to turn the crank. Also, besides cam phaser bolts and the crankshaft bolt, is there any else I can't reuse? I have new tensioner bolts, guide bolts, and crankshaft bolt, and plan on getting timing cover bolts and oil pan bolts. I also can't figure out if I can reuse the cam cap bolts when installing the secondary tensioner bracket.

 

[NGOT8R]

NGOT8R
I almost have everything a part, but I wanted to ask, did you use any special crankshaft tools? I plan on just holding the cams with vice grips and using a socket to turn the crank. Also, besides cam phaser bolts and the crankshaft bolt, is there any else I can't reuse? I have new tensioner bolts, guide bolts, and crankshaft bolt, and plan on getting timing cover bolts and oil pan bolts. I also can't figure out if I can reuse the cam cap bolts when installing the secondary tensioner bracket.

You’re all set, although I would recommend using a large crescent wrench to hold the cams instead of using vice grips to keep from marring the flats on the cams. As for cam cap bolts, I recommend using the ARP bolts. I think I have a link to those in the thread.

I didn’t replace anything else, except for new cam filters. Oh, and I did reuse the factory bolts for my HPFP, but all others are ARP bolts.

 

[MyStang]

This is my plan + new oil pump housing and boundary pump gears.
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6004-A5015B

 

[GTharmony]

You’re all set, although I would recommend using a large crescent wrench to hold the cams instead of using vice grips to keep from marring the flats on the cams. As for cam cap bolts, I recommend using the ARP bolts. I think I have a link to those in the thread.

I didn’t replace anything else, except for new cam filters. Oh, and I did reuse the factory bolts for my HPFP, but all others are ARP bolts.

I will use a crescent wrench then, good idea. I did get new cam filters! I am not opposed to doing the ARP bolts but seeing as I really would just be replacing two bolts I would hate to pay a lot for the whole set. It has already set be back pretty good buying all these parts lol. I do plan on eventually putting supercharger cams in once I go FI so I may wait until then to do those, and just go with 2 OEM cam cap bolts if they aren't reusable. I will keep you updated! I plan on putting in the parts this coming up weekend and hopefully will have it all put back together the weekend after.

 

[NGOT8R]

For crankshaft tools, you’ll need a puller and a pusher tool to push the harmonic balancer back on.

If you want to sift through my turbo build thread, I took lots of photos and explained how I went about the cam timing, OP, harmonic balancer, oil pan stuff etc.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bl-fabrications-88-96-turbo-install-on-2019-bullitt.224189/

 

[GTharmony]

For crankshaft tools, you’ll need a puller and a pusher tool to push the harmonic balancer back on.

If you want to sift through my turbo build thread, I took lots of photos and explained how I went about the cam timing, OP, harmonic balancer, oil pan stuff etc.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bl-fabrications-88-96-turbo-install-on-2019-bullitt.224189/

My buddy has a puller from doing his coyote, and I bought an install bolt so should be all set there. I am definitely going to check out the thread when I am in there.

 

[muscandy999]

What news?

 

[GTharmony]

What news?

Got the timing job done about two weeks ago, just kept forgetting to get around to update the thread.

Took a little over a month, as a buddy and I only had so much time to work on it. While the passenger chain did have an unusual amount of slack in it, replacing everything in the timing system did not fix the noise. Ended up taking it to a shop, who says the noise is coming from my intake manifold. I have a GT350 intake manifold with IMRC lockouts, but I didn't lock it out until after this noise started, so I believe one of the flaps has become loose and is making the noise. I plan on pulling it off sometime this coming up week and inspecting it. Will probably end up epoxying the broken flap open if that is the issue

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