CR Spotless users, have you ever not dried off the car after washing it?

[stungjoe]

I have a shadow black and it's ceramic coated. I have rinsed off the car at a local car wash using only their spot free rinse just to get the dust off (I only get carport parking privileges) and did the ol' 65+MPH blow dryer method. But when I contact wash at home using the CR Spotless treated water I usually blow dry the car with a pet dryer (filtered, heated air and it was less than a hundred bux) and towel up any stubborn beads of water. But I was curious has anybody just left it to dry on it's own since it's washed and rinsed with DI water (I usually get around 5-7 on the TDS meter-pretty good since I am on well water with a native 250+ TDS reading)? I haven't been brave enough to try it yet so just curious.

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[VIPR01]

I’m not sure the risk of going down the inevitable water spot path would be worth trying this concept out. Water spots are like kryptonite. Water seems to creep out of all the vent crevasses & hides behind the mirrors. CRs are fantastic, but I think your asking for trouble not drying properly. I’ve seen the black spoiler develop water spots simply due to humidity while drying the top. I’ve eyeballed some water spots on ceramic coated paint that will bring detailers to their knees.

 

[kilobravo]

OP: I did this on my F250 when I first picked up the DIC-20 rig to test. I double checked the softness of the CR Spotless output which was very low. Then, I left it out in the Texas sun and no kidding, there were very few water spots.

But, to avoid even those, I pull the cars in the garage for a blow dry.

My burg has terribly hard water so even with a commercial grade softener for the house, I still need the DIC-20 for rinsing.

 

[offroadkarter]

I have a CR Spotless DIC-20 and have let cars air dry with no issues, the whole reason I have the system is so I don't towel dry anymore. I will however still go over the car with a leaf blower as when it comes to rinsing, if you're not careful to get all the soap suds off the car, you can still leave spots.

Also if your TDS is showing 5-7 you're overdue for a filter change. CR says you shouldn't be going over zero. I drain my CR spotless canisters after every use which has helped prolong their life, leaving stagnant water inside quickly degrades them. I've used my system both with well water and public utility, a friend of mine with the same system used his on a communal well with very hard water and his was still filtering to 0ppm.

 

[Grimmer]

I have let the car air dry a hand full of times after rinsing with the CR system. I pre-rinse the car with the CR system using a low power pressure washer from a safe distance. Then I wash it using softened water in my soap bucket, and final rinse it with the CR system again. Only going a panel at a time so that the wash water/soap cannot dry before being rinsed off. My CR system usually reads a TDS of 0ppm.

My experience has been that all of the water puddles collect dust out of the air and will dry leaving the dust. It is loose and can be puffed off. However, I have always had better looking results using two micro-fiber cloths to dry. One for bulk drying and another for a polish dry.

If you are getting more than 0ppm, there is a chance that the flow rate through the filter is too high. It should be limited to less than 2gpm. That is one of the reasons that I use the pressure washer to rinse, it only has a throughput around 1.2 gpm.

CRAFTSMAN 1700 PSI 1.2-Gallon-GPM Cold Water Electric Pressure Washer in the Electric Pressure Washers department at Lowes.com

Edit:
Even though I don't let the car air dry, I still find great value in using the CR system because I don't have to dry as I go to prevent water spots on panels that dry before I can finish the whole car and towel dry them. I can wash and rinse at a stress free casual pace. It even makes it possible for me to wash it in direct sunlight by immediately rinsing the sections as I go (and sometimes rewetting sections before they can dry out.)

 

[Grimmer]

I usually blow dry the car with a pet dryer (filtered, heated air and it was less than a hundred bux) and towel up any stubborn beads of water.

I'll have to look into the pet dryer option. I've casually looked for alternate filtered blowers that don't carry the detailing equipment price premium. Has it worked well for pushing water out of the most common weep spots? (Rear tail lights, headlights, grill.)

 

[Grimmer]

I have been wondering if there is a soap that won't dry before I finish washing the whole car. I have tried it with my current soap, but once it dries it won't simply rinse off without a quick wipe of the wash mitt. Rinsing sections as I go inevitably results in some overspray / splatter that requires a re-rinse of the adjacent sections which, of course, uses a bunch more CR water.

What soap are you using, or Is that just pre-wash foam? Do you have to rub it with a wash mitt before rinsing to get good results?

I have not been very impressed with the touchless wash options I've tried. Seems that the dirty film just won't come off without the wash mitt contact.

 

[stungjoe]

I'll have to look into the pet dryer option. I've casually looked for alternate filtered blowers that don't carry the detailing equipment price premium. Has it worked well for pushing water out of the most common weep spots? (Rear tail lights, headlights, grill.)

The pet dryer has been a very good investment. I had to get an extended hose to replace the one that came with it. It kept blowing the hose out of the end nozzle so I drilled a couple of holes and use short sheet metal screws to hold the hose in the nozzle. It worked like a charm! I have tried several of the ends that came with the dryer but ended up with the small round hole version and it does blow the left over soap out of the chrome trim around the doors and back side window (I have a Bullitt) where the pressure washer couldn't. Tail lights, mirrors, behind the rear plate, hood vents etc......it will get the water out!

 

[kilobravo]

Grimmer: I feel your pain in the heat of south Texas. <smiling> Alright, to your questions...

Soap: I've tried many different "foaming soaps" and the one I like the best is Chemical Guys Snow Foam.

Regarding my washing workflow, no, I don't wash the car with a mitt after foaming, I use the foam to loosen the dirt. After I let it sit for 3-5 minutes, I rinse the foam off thoroughly and then hand wash. In the heat down here, I have to wash in sections and rinse to avoid the drying issue you mentioned. Top half, one side and front, then the other side and rear.

Any large blow dryer will be helpful but after getting a Metrovac Max Blaster, I wouldn't use anything else.

Hope that helps..

 

[DFB5.0]

I have been wondering if there is a soap that won't dry before I finish washing the whole car. I have tried it with my current soap, but once it dries it won't simply rinse off without a quick wipe of the wash mitt. Rinsing sections as I go inevitably results in some overspray / splatter that requires a re-rinse of the adjacent sections which, of course, uses a bunch more CR water.

What soap are you using, or Is that just pre-wash foam? Do you have to rub it with a wash mitt before rinsing to get good results?

I have not been very impressed with the touchless wash options I've tried. Seems that the dirty film just won't come off without the wash mitt contact.

The general rule of thumb is not to wash in direct sunlight. That said, I do it all the time due to the the direction of my driveway. If you use a forgiving soap and work efficiently, you should be fine.

Soaps with a neutral pH should be ok to use in the sun. However, there are 4 soaps I have used that seem to be better than others when used in direct sunlight.

Adam's Car Shampoo -
Adam's Polishes Car Wash Shampoo | Ph Neutral Car Care Foaming Soap (adamspolishes.com)

NV Snow -
Snow | pH-Neutral Foaming Shampoo – Nv Car Care USA

P&S Pearl -
(Note: I have found this soap foams much runnier than the other soaps, it does rinse easily though.)
P&S Detail Products - Pearl Auto Shampoo Concentrate | The Rag Company

Koch Chemie GSF -
Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam | GSF Soap 1 Liter (clean-garage.com)

 

[smokescreens]

I cant even think about not drying the car off. Water spot city if i dont. I use a $40 electric toro leaf blower to dry the bulk of the car. Never used it for leaves, only drying off vehicles. Its a little on the bulky side but it moves enough air i can be plenty far away from the paint and i can reach all the way to the other side of the car with it. I cant justify hundreds of dollars for a car dryer that does the same thing in the end.

 

[Evolvd]

I also have the CR and it works like a champ. I let the car air dry once cause it was getting late and I was losing sunlight. My car is garage kept but even the dust in the air will leave spots if you let the water evaporate. Of course this is easily fixed with a detailing spray.
I try to wash my rides in the early morning or early evening when the sun is low. I find the water doesn’t evaporate as fast.
As for blow-drying I use an Ego 765cfm blower with a stubby nozzle. It makes short work of drying and all that’s left is small touch up spots where the water seeps out the mirrors, window trim, and tail lights.

 

[Bobn57]

I cant even think about not drying the car off. Water spot city if i dont. I use a $40 electric toro leaf blower to dry the bulk of the car. Never used it for leaves, only drying off vehicles. Its a little on the bulky side but it moves enough air i can be plenty far away from the paint and i can reach all the way to the other side of the car with it. I cant justify hundreds of dollars for a car dryer that does the same thing in the end.

I use this....literally dry the stang as I pull it across the wet surface. Fastest and most absorbent towel I ever used. Does not leave a spot of water. Its like magic!
https://luxurymicrofiberstore.com/products/sucker

 

[Sfckelley]

I have a shadow black and it's ceramic coated. I have rinsed off the car at a local car wash using only their spot free rinse just to get the dust off (I only get carport parking privileges) and did the ol' 65+MPH blow dryer method. But when I contact wash at home using the CR Spotless treated water I usually blow dry the car with a pet dryer (filtered, heated air and it was less than a hundred bux) and towel up any stubborn beads of water. But I was curious has anybody just left it to dry on it's own since it's washed and rinsed with DI water (I usually get around 5-7 on the TDS meter-pretty good since I am on well water with a native 250+ TDS reading)? I haven't been brave enough to try it yet so just curious.

I have the CR Spotless wall mount version and 5 black vehicles... I have tried a few times to let them air dry and always have water spots. As others have mentioned, it has to be from dust and other crap getting kicked up around the neighborhood from mowers, blowers, etc. I still think the system is valuable though as it gives me more time to get around the vehicles to thoroughly dry. And blowers do help with the mirror, trunk, trim drips!

 

[MattMPA]

I used to use a CR Spotless system...and really got tired of dealing with the resin. I'm also not sure that I was getting a truly spotless result. I may not be typical, but I was finding what looked like clear water rings on the cars afterwards.

I got a Metro Master Blaster for drying. It has a 30' hose. I blow off of the water, around lights, wheels, moldings, etc. I then touch up the drying with some Duragloss Aquawax.

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