Had enough of aftermarket CAI & HIGH IAT's. So here's my fix.

[WildHorse]

Guess I made mine look amateurish haha. But unless you're looking from like 3" away, you'll never notice.

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[dn1984]

Oh nice! Can you let us know if you notice any performance difference with that velossatech? You have the exact same setup I’m thinking about running- Injen + velossatech. I suspect it’s a winning combo

I'm not really expecting any noticeable performance increases. The main function will be better IATs and cool looks. Should be more consistent once wednesday night drags finally open back up

 

[Htk084]

Yeah true, car should run strong with that setup. Just curious, did your logs look good still after that intake install?

I'm not really expecting any noticeable performance increases. The main function will be better IATs and cool looks. Should be more consistent once wednesday night drags finally open back up

 

[dn1984]

Yeah true, car should run strong with that setup. Just curious, did your logs look good still after that intake install?

i haven't done any logs. my butt dyno is really sensitive and it runs fine. not too worried on a no tune intake

 

[WildHorse]

Your still a clueless tool Brian...

Cause he tracks his car.. so that makes him king daddy, & everyone else opinion means shit haha.

 

[Nuked]

Guess I made mine look amateurish haha. But unless you're looking from like 3" away, you'll never notice.

Don't feel bad, mine looks the same as yours!

 

[WildHorse]

Little vid with the install.

 

[Bluemustang]

Just another update for all you "HOT air intake" haters. With my redneck mod to the airbox (simple weather stripping around the top edges) and the Velossa Tech big mouth ram air, I see less than 10* over ambient idling, and sitting at traffic lights for several minutes - 90* weather. Cruising around town I see no more than 5-7* over. Highway miles - 3-5* over at very most. Longer idle situations like in a drive thru line - usually 15* over.

IATs when they do rise, they rise VERY slowly. When I went to the road course two weekends ago - temps in the 80s, I saw a maximum of 25* over ambient. This includes me idling in the grid for a long while, engine running, then running the car hard for a lap and then back into the grid for another long wait. Never shut the engine off or open the hood in between. Repeat the process for 4-5 laps. The highest IAT I saw the whole day was 107F. Mind you the engine bay is extremely hot. And I even ran A/C for some of that time waiting for my next run. I don't see how you can really complain about that. There is a lot of heat under the hood with a running engine. Even the stock airbox will undergo heat transference. No way around that.

So I'm just here to tell people that you can make relatively simple and cheap mods to your open air intakes and make them perform great. The idea that you must use the stock airbox to avoid insanely high IATs is just poppycock. On top of that with my JLT I have a larger, smooth intake tube and a much bigger filter which flows a lot more air and is very efficient at filtering contaminants. All of that will translate to a higher peak hp.

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

So after trying everything to combat high IAT's with aftermarket CAI's (cai.. haha), and not wanted to spend more moolah on another close box CAI (like airaid) I decided to modify what I had. So his is what I did.. JLT elbow (shortened to right before the MAF housing), rubber coupler, stock 17 box, K&N drop in, removed the forward silencer, removed the charcoal filter, sanded & contoured the inside of the lid Works pretty fricken awesome. Always within 5c of ambient when cruising, idling today (27°c ambient, in never climbed above 36°c (97°f). That's just 9°c increase, awesome. Better than the conical air filter JLT CAI including 17 thousands different ways to keep the heat out. The plastic JLT tub was just to thin and heat soak was crazy, took forever to cool down once moving as well, likely cause the air coming in from the grill goes under the conical filter, hits the back of the box, goes up, then finds its way out the hood vent, gap between the JLT box and fender, etc,. etc. Raced a couple of my favorite targets last night, I'd say it's making more power. Quite a bit more actually. I'm thoroughly convinced it's the ELBOW that's responsible for making power, and the straight shot of airflow past the MAF from the stock lid, plus the K&N drop in is a proven 5-6 hp gain. Same tune, just redid the MAF scaling for the stock housing. So, lower IAT's, better throttle response, and at the much more horsepower than the stock setup. Follow me for more redneck recipes. Cheers.

Nice work!

 

[Dfeeds]

I've been taking my own journey down this road with the power pack/gt350 intake on my 2019. There's a few gaps in the molding of the box, or bucket, whatever you want to call it. I didn't know if it was intentional or lazy casting so I blocked those off.

After my changes started making an impact I noticed two things. The first being my general IATs were down. The jumps to 140° were gone (it's been about 80° F to low 90s). Cool, except I also noticed my driving IATs actually went up. Before, even after spiking, IATs quickly dropped to 3-4° of ambient temperature. After, my IATs consistently remained 10° above ambient. I chalked it up to the insane heat and maybe the car's reading of ambient isn't accurate but today I decided to rip it all off for my drive home. Sure enough, IATs (while driving) stayed at 4° above ambient the whole time. Today is also the hottest day of the week.

 

[Dfeeds]

v-good. But not really what I was trying to achieve. Cause I never had a problem with IAT when the car was rolling at a decent speed.

You misread my post. I said my driving IATs got worse after fixing my idle IATs. The 4° above ambient is with all of my insulation removed.

 

[Dfeeds]

Oh.. my bad. With mine both IDLE & DRIVING IAT's are now beyond excellent

What are your driving IATs?

 

[Nate_V8]

So a jlt with a little extra insulation to seal against the hood is better than an '18 airbox now? for airflow and at least on par for IATs?

 

[Bluemustang]

I've been taking my own journey down this road with the power pack/gt350 intake on my 2019. There's a few gaps in the molding of the box, or bucket, whatever you want to call it. I didn't know if it was intentional or lazy casting so I blocked those off.

After my changes started making an impact I noticed two things. The first being my general IATs were down. The jumps to 140° were gone (it's been about 80° F to low 90s). Cool, except I also noticed my driving IATs actually went up. Before, even after spiking, IATs quickly dropped to 3-4° of ambient temperature. After, my IATs consistently remained 10° above ambient. I chalked it up to the insane heat and maybe the car's reading of ambient isn't accurate but today I decided to rip it all off for my drive home. Sure enough, IATs (while driving) stayed at 4° above ambient the whole time. Today is also the hottest day of the week.

Some the holes in these air boxes are there intentionally. Cp-e's intake has slits in the box for hot air to escape. And typically there is at least a hole at the bottom to allow any water seepage to drain out. IMO sealing the box can sometimes result in hot air getting trapped in there. That could be why your cruising temps are higher.

The way I did mine- I have the Velossa tech big mouth blocking off the radiator backwash and an open air box that seals fairly well to the hood but probably not air tight. Idling and cruising temps are excellent.

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