What kind of supercharger should I get?

[LetItRide1978]

Interesting discussion so far. If it were me, I’d stick with Roush/Ford Performance. From everything I’ve read, it sounds like that one would be the most reliable.

As a person who works in finance/accounting, I would highly recommend anyone who wants a supercharger to have the car paid off first. Worst case scenario you need a major repair. Last thing you want to worry about is still making payments on a fancy paperweight, as someone else called it.

Then of course half shaft upgrade, cooling, suspension, brakes, good tires, etc.

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[GritzNGravy]

Just save up a bit more, or buy the Whipple kit and stare at it in your living room every day until you can afford to have it installed. This isn't a life critical thing that can't wait, you're just being impatient. No offense of course, we've all been there. Gotta have the toy right now.

This made me laugh cause its kinda what I did. I bought my Whipple stage2 kit from Beefcake during the black Friday sale in 2018. Think it was close to $7500ish. I just installed it myself at the beginning of May. That was alot of time staring at it in my garage. Probably hold the record from time of purchase to time of install. Money wasn't the issue just getting time to install it was. Business finally slowed down during this covid pandemic, so I installed it during slow times at work.

 

[EgoBoost]

Start buying supporting mods while you wait for a killer deal on a used kit.

 

[SplawnDarts]

If it were me, I’d stick with Roush/Ford Performance. From everything I’ve read, it sounds like that one would be the most reliable.

The big advantages of the Roush as I see it:
- Warranty & acceptance by Ford dealers
- EO number and proven to pass CA emissions and should pass anywhere in the country even places that are changing to match CA law
- Tune done with Ford where everything works, all sensors are on, etc.
- Good power at lower RPMs
- Power numbers not inflated by bumping redline without supporting balance mods.

The downside is that it makes a little less power at the top end. But it's probably the "safest" way to ~640 SAE rwhp.

OP claims to have no interest in warranty or emissions, so the Roush may have few advantages for him.

 

[Jordanfmeyer]

I’m in Kansas and no emissions, I already have a e85 tune so technically my warranty is void anyway. But when I get the sc installed I’m going to get a better trans so it can handle that power. But your right 700 rwhp would be plenty. I also plan on getting bigger tires to handle that power.

Where in Kansas are you? I live in Manhattan! My vote is Procharger. I have a procharged gt350 and it does not disappoint

 

[Marketplaza]

Where in Kansas are you? I live in Manhattan! My vote is Procharger. I have a procharged gt350 and it does not disappoint

wichita. I’m just looking for a better deal. I’m being quoted 7950 plus 650 for a Lund remote tune. That just went above my price range. If I can’t find a better deal I just might get 4.09 gears installed. I’m told I’ll notice a real big difference with those.

 

[Jordanfmeyer]

wichita. I’m just looking for a better deal. I’m being quoted 7950 plus 650 for a Lund remote tune. That just went above my price range. If I can’t find a better deal I just might get 4.09 gears installed. I’m told I’ll notice a real big difference with those.

I think someone mentioned this before. Used kits that are in good condition pop up on the market place every once in awhile. Those are usually much cheaper. Sometimes I wish I would’ve waited and bought a slightly used kit just because I have seen some good deals that I could get much more for the money. Just depends on what you are comfortable with. I think for some of my remaining mods, that’s the route I will take.

 

[GreenS550]

I think someone mentioned this before. Used kits that are in good condition pop up on the market place every once in awhile. Those are usually much cheaper. Sometimes I wish I would’ve waited and bought a slightly used kit just because I have seen some good deals that I could get much more for the money. Just depends on what you are comfortable with. I think for some of my remaining mods, that’s the route I will take.

That's right. See above.
My first supercharger was a Vortech HO kit I bought on Ebay. Used for a few thousand miles and I picked it op for about 1/2 of the new price. Not only worked excellent, but the seller walked me through the install. Got the tune from Brenspeed and it was spot on. All in I had 3K in it. Worth it!

 

[fuelforfire87]

wichita. I’m just looking for a better deal. I’m being quoted 7950 plus 650 for a Lund remote tune. That just went above my price range. If I can’t find a better deal I just might get 4.09 gears installed. I’m told I’ll notice a real big difference with those.

If you go with 4.10 gears and then later you decide to go boosted, you will get no traction whatsoever. You would have to swap back to 3.31 or 3.55 at the most to get any traction in the lower gears especially with a PD blower like a Whipple or VMP/Roush/Edelbrock.

 

[GreenS550]

wichita. I’m just looking for a better deal. I’m being quoted 7950 plus 650 for a Lund remote tune. That just went above my price range. If I can’t find a better deal I just might get 4.09 gears installed. I’m told I’ll notice a real big difference with those.

Contract Beefcake. Forget the remote tune. All in for 6950 tax, shipping,etc. Whipple tune. 775 KIT. That's you installing.

 

[Marketplaza]

I think someone mentioned this before. Used kits that are in good condition pop up on the market place every once in awhile. Those are usually much cheaper. Sometimes I wish I would’ve waited and bought a slightly used kit just because I have seen some good deals that I could get much more for the money. Just depends on what you are comfortable with. I think for some of my remaining mods, that’s the route I will take.

Where would I look for these deals at? Craigslist?

 

[Burkey]

If you go with 4.10 gears and then later you decide to go boosted, you will get no traction whatsoever. You would have to swap back to 3.31 or 3.55 at the most to get any traction in the lower gears especially with a PD blower like a Whipple or VMP/Roush/Edelbrock.

Being that the gears on the later MT82’s are taller than the 15-17 cars, the change in ratio isn’t a completely terrible idea.

 

[Angrey]

Some food for thought on the Roush. If you live anywhere hot, I'd reconsider. This type of aspect doesn't show up on a dyno session, but in the real world when you're sitting at stop lights or waiting to stage at the drag strip, IAT's are a concern (and on back to back to back type pulls). The Roush creates a lot of heat and the intercooler just isn't up to the task to handle multiple pulls or pulls in hot conditions.

 

[GreenS550]

Actually, I had a Roush TVS2300 on my 2011 Mustang GT making 600 rwhp. I took it to Milan dragway and raced it over 30 1/4 mile passes. Started racing at 98F and quit when the temp was 84F. Almost no one there. It did consistent 11.80s on street tires. Never faltered. I rarely let it cool.
I don't believe the Roush is an issue. Especially with a decent intercooler. Drove that car for another 30K miles before selling it and it ran perfect when sold.

 

[Angrey]

Actually, I had a Roush TVS2300 on my 2011 Mustang GT making 600 rwhp. I took it to Milan dragway and raced it over 30 1/4 mile passes. Started racing at 98F and quit when the temp was 84F. Almost no one there. It did consistent 11.80s on street tires. Never faltered. I rarely let it cool.
I don't believe the Roush is an issue. Especially with a decent intercooler. Drove that car for another 30K miles before selling it and it ran perfect when sold.

His car was trapping slower than an equivalent bolt on's 2018+ would trap naturally aspirated. He couldn't even get through a pass without it yanking timing. The reality is, for guys in FL, your IAT's can climb to 140+ sitting at a stop light for 3 minutes (or sitting in line at a big event where you can't push your car into staging) and if it starts yanking timing around 170, it's a problem because it builds heat so quickly.

I don't think it's a problem if you're starting from much lower IATs, but in reality, that's not always an option, like if you do a WOT immediately followed by another WOT.

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