2015 GT 5w20 or 5w30?

[Free33d]

I got my 2015 GT in November, its coming up for its first oil change (during my ownership). I like to do my own oil change and have a stockpile of oil. I have a bunch of 5w20 & 5w30 in various different brands. This is my daily driver, I'm torn between using 5w20 or 5w30.

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[ice445]

I got my 2015 GT in November, its coming up for its first oil change (during my ownership). I like to do my own oil change and have a stockpile of oil. I have a bunch of 5w20 & 5w30 in various different brands. This is my daily driver, I'm torn between using 5w20 or 5w30.

If you're just daily driving with the occasional rip, 5W20 is fine. The engineers spec'd it for a reason. Now if you beat the shit out of your car or plan to track it, then you want to use 5W30. Just use a quality synthetic.

 

[EFI]

5w20 is fine for street driving.

If you start pushing the car hard (like on a road course or with boost) you should step up to a thicker oil like 5w30.

 

[Free33d]

Just use a quality synthetic.

yep I have bunch of pennzoil ultra platinum, castrol extended edge and a couple bottles of Mobil1. I'll go with penn or castrol and leave mobil1 for the other cars.

 

[BrianGT2015]

Mobile 1 5w20 synthetic with a mobile 1 filter. Oil works just fine for me. I have had an 03 Cobra that was a bolt on car, with a ported supercharger, and higher boost. Used the oil that was on the cap, never had an issue. Had an 05 built GT, forged bottom end, bolt on car, cams, huge shot of nitrous. Used the oil recommended by the tuner. I am in the process of building my 15 GT. I will be using the 5w20 synthetic even after I go boosted unless my tuner says otherwise. Like some have said unless you have a dedicated track car I wouldn't be changing up the viscosity and what not and just go with what your manual says.

Like I said, unless its a built engine and you changed the clearances OR you just have a dedicated track car I wouldn't worry about trying to find something different besides what the engineers suggest. Just my opinion.

 

[el-guapin]

My vote is for 5w30. I like Pennzoil ultra platinum

 

[Condor1970]

QSUD 5w30.

 

[Elp_jc]

I'm going to go with M1 0/30. Quicker lubrication when engine is cold. And 30 instead of 20 because I live in hot TX, and Ford recommends 5/30 for the Coyote in most other markets, so seems to be the 5/20 was forced on them by the EPA. Or for financial reasons, to have better CAFE numbers. Unless somebody could post a credible article that 5/20 is actually better for the engine, will stick to 30. And 0/30 is not that far off 20 anyway, so it's not like I'd be using 5/50. Ha ha.

What I haven't seen is methods of how to raise the car. What do you guys do? I have Rhino ramps, but with a manual, I'd prefer to just lift it from the front from a central location. Is there one on a Bulllitt? Thx.

 

[EFI]

Unless somebody could post a credible article that 5/20 is actually better for the engine, will stick to 30. And 0/30 is not that far off 20 anyway, so it's not like I'd be using 5/50. Ha ha.

What I haven't seen is methods of how to raise the car. What do you guys do? I have Rhino ramps, but with a manual, I'd prefer to just lift it from the front from a central location. Is there one on a Bulllitt? Thx.

It's not, it's widely agreed that the biggest reason for that viscosity was fuel economy.

Why do you prefer to lift the car with jack and stands vs. driving on the ramps? It's super easy to do unless you're lowered. I can have the car up on the ramps before I can even get the jack out of the garage.

And there isn't really a good point on the front that you can jack up the entire half of the car. You'd have to jack it up from both sides.

 

[Elp_jc]

That's what I thought about 5/20; glad to hear that. Thank you for confirming it.

The way I did the Vette, GTR, and others, is to jack up the front, put the Rhino ramps under the tires, and lower it immediately. So basically the same crap, without having to drive it up the ramps . Since there's no central jacking point in front, will just drive it up then. Is there a way to jack up the rear from the middle? Hope so. And where is the drain plug? Is it in a good position to empty with the way the car is inclined? Also hope so. With my daughters' cars, I have to jack up the rear, since the plug is in front of the oil pan. Not nice. Ha ha. Thanks man.

 

[ice445]

It's not, it's widely agreed that the biggest reason for that viscosity was fuel economy.

Why do you prefer to lift the car with jack and stands vs. driving on the ramps? It's super easy to do unless you're lowered. I can have the car up on the ramps before I can even get the jack out of the garage.

And there isn't really a good point on the front that you can jack up the entire half of the car. You'd have to jack it up from both sides.

My friend managed to drive off the ramps before, lol. Did a ton of damage. Obviously I know ramps aren't that hard to use and I've used them many times, but somehow seeing that happen just turned me off of using them...lol

 

[rangerryda]

Just did an oil change today. I've been using 5w30 since my first break-in. All Mobil 1 extended performance. I do 5k changes. I know I could stretch that out a bit but oh well. The manual says for track use, use 50 weight so 30 weight in FL is no biggie. I firmly believe 5w20 is only suggested because of CAFE restrictions. On a small displacement non-performance engine, sure use the lighter weight. Not for the coyote in my opinion. But hey, I'm not an engineer or scientist. Just some dude on a forum lol.

 

[Helios]

5w30 even if the cap says 5w20
none of us drive like a grandpa with 460 hp under the hood. better be safer than sorry

the 30 weight will dillute in the long run so just imagine what is left from a 20 weight after it gets dilluted ? 10 weight or less ? lots of part moving in that motor and you want to protect them the best you can.

 

[Andy13186]

I do 0w30 but I think 5w20 and 5w30 are both fine. Manual says to use 5w30 for track use though

 

[Elp_jc]

I'll also use M1 0/30 starting with the first oil change (still debating if at 1K, 2K, or 3K miles ), which is a 'thin' 30weight, meaning it'd be in 20 weight range most of its 5K miles, not in 10 range. Plus it starts lubricating quicker than even 5/20, so the best compromise IMO.

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