Suggested Upgrades for Reliable Track Use on 2018+ GT MT-82

[cib24]

I did a quick search through this sub-forum but didn't find a thread that covered off the key things one should look to upgrade or change to make the car reliable on a track day where you typically do 15-30 minute stints. I have read things about overheating diffs and installing catch cans but is there anything else that is recommended or suggested to be taken care of to ensure a driver will enjoy each 15-30 minute stints without issues?

1. Diff cooler
2. Oil catch can
3. Upgraded pads and fluid
4. xxx
5. xx
6. x

Sponsored

 

[Ewheels]

I don't know your experience level with road courses, but if you're a beginner, I would wait to address cooling until it's needed. I'm a beginner and only have a few track days under my belt and I haven't experienced any over heating issues.
That being said, diff will likely be first (start with 75w140 oil then add a cooler when needed), then bigger radiator/oil cooler, and if you have an automatic, a trans cooler may be necessary as well.
OEM pads won't last under hard braking and some good fluid is always recommended.

 

[cib24]

I don't know your experience level with road courses, but if you're a beginner, I would wait to address cooling until it's needed. I'm a beginner and only have a few track days under my belt and I haven't experienced any over heating issues.
That being said, diff will likely be first (start with 75w140 oil then add a cooler when needed), then bigger radiator/oil cooler, and if you have an automatic, a trans cooler may be necessary as well.
OEM pads won't last under hard braking and some good fluid is always recommended.

Relatively experienced on a circuit but in a much lighter car (FD Mazda RX-7).

So, the factory radiator on a PP1 is not sufficient for track use? Does the car come with a factory oil cooler?

 

[Ewheels]

Relatively experienced on a circuit but in a much lighter car (FD Mazda RX-7).

So, the factory radiator on a PP1 is not sufficient for track use? Does the car come with a factory oil cooler?

Again, depends on ambient temps, how hard you push the car, and how long the session is. PP1 radiator is fine for HPDE stuff but if you compete in time trials or such, you may want to look into a Mishi radiator.

Go to a track day completely stock and see where you're at. No sense spending money preventing issues you won't have.

And that's a negative on the oil cooler

 

[Holmes]

I did a quick search through this sub-forum but didn't find a thread that covered off the key things one should look to upgrade or change to make the car reliable on a track day where you typically do 15-30 minute stints. I have read things about overheating diffs and installing catch cans but is there anything else that is recommended or suggested to be taken care of to ensure a driver will enjoy each 15-30 minute stints without issues?

1. Diff cooler
2. Oil catch can
3. Upgraded pads and fluid
4. xxx
5. xx
6. x

I have a 2019 GT PP1, MT82, Magneride. Currently at 2900 miles. Been to two track days. At 1000 miles (before the first track day), I changed to full synthetic motor oil, also high pref. Differential fluid, trans fluid, and racing brake fluid. Absolutely no issues with over heating of any kind. Car did great. Have sense changed to Steeda performance Progressive Lowering Springs mainly for the look. We will see how they do next week. I’m a beginner, have 4 track days under my belt so far. Definitely recommend staying stock until any issue are identified.

 

[TDC]

Never heard of a PP1 car overheating with the factory radiator. Diff cooler for sure otherwise limp mode.

 

[EFI]

PP1 radiator is fine for HPDE stuff but if you compete in time trials or such, you may want to look into a Mishi radiator.

A time trial is usually limited to one warmup lap and then 3-5 hard laps. The PP radiator will have no issue keeping a stock engine cool in that little amount of time. If you're doing extended HPDE days (25+ minutes) then you might have issues with temps.

And that's a negative on the oil cooler

All 15+ GTs come stock with an oil cooler. It's a water to oil unit and not all that great, but it definitely helps over not having one.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I mainly do <20 minute sessions and my PP1 has not required any cooling mods other than changing the diff oil weight and some thermal wrap around the exhaust pipes near and ahead of the diff. An active diff cooler would be a better idea, but an accelerated oil change interval and Redline 75w140 has been working so far on my car.

The PP1 does have a small oil cooler (I’ve never had an issue), but if you’re doing 30 minute sessions, a mishmoto oil cooler upgrade may be a good idea.

Good track worthy brake pads GLOC R12 front R10 rear and SRF fluid.

Camber plates are highly recommended if you aren’t sponsored by a tire company.

 

[JohnD]

I mainly do <20 minute sessions and my PP1 has not required any cooling mods other than changing the diff oil weight and some thermal wrap around the exhaust pipes near and ahead of the diff. An active diff cooler would be a better idea, but an accelerated oil change interval and Redline 75w140 has been working so far on my car.

The PP1 does have a small oil cooler (I’ve never had an issue), but if you’re doing 30 minute sessions, a mishmoto oil cooler upgrade may be a good idea.

Good track worthy brake pads GLOC R12 front R10 rear and SRF fluid.

Camber plates are highly recommended if you aren’t sponsored by a tire company.

I have the same experience with my '16 PP1 car, using BG diff and trans fluid. Used to get axle overheat warnings regularly but after wrapping the exhaust near the diff I haven't had any. I did not think this would do much but am happy to report it does work. I also keep it under 20 minute sessions unless it's a cool day. This is not hard to do since most track day groups I run with run 3 sessions per hour.

Don't want to add a diff cooler, this car is too fat already and what I am doing is working now. Recently tried Hawk DTC50/30 brakes and they are working well, about .5 mm of wear per track day on the fronts, barely measureable on the rears, not terribly hard on the rotors from what I see so far.

 

[Grintch]

Second camber plates.

Diff cooler would be my number 2, but a better/heavier oil helps, as does apparently wrapping the exhaust, but without a cooler I would definitely use accelerated fluid changes.

The stock pads are very good, unless your favorite track(s) have big high speed brake zones you probably won't need more track oriented pads for a while (and I wonder how much use of the Vorslag deflectors would extend that).

I'm my book, oil catch cans are at best a nice to have item. Nowhere near my top ten track mods.

 

[bnightstar]

I'm my book, oil catch cans are at best a nice to have item. Nowhere near my top ten track mods.

My car drunk 500 ml of oil in it's last truck day I think catch can is a must if you are redlining your Mustang.
Camber plates for sure are a must too if you are not sponsored by a tire company.
Probably metal brake lines as well.

 

[cib24]

My car drunk 500 ml of oil in it's last truck day I think catch can is a must if you are redlining your Mustang.
Camber plates for sure are a must too if you are not sponsored by a tire company.
Probably metal brake lines as well.

I would agree that a catch can is a must. My Mazda RX-7 has twin turbos that cause a crazy amount of pressure in the sump and as a result cause blow-by up the oil filler neck on right hand turns so a catch can is a must if I want to avoid an oil soaked air box and intercooler from hard driving and the g-forces you can achieve on track day tyres.

Anyway, I picked up the Mustang on Thursday and have driven it about 200 miles so far on the road and have decided I will start with the following modifications:

Ford Performance Torsen T2-R Differential -- I would prefer a Torsen like what it in my Mazda as opposed to the Traction-Lok differential that comes standard on this car.
Ford Performance 4.09 Ring and Pinion -- The torque and power of the engine is pretty good but the gearing is tremendously long. I think a 4.09 will suit this car much better for road and track driving.
Ford Racing GT350 RHD Strut Brace and K Brace
Ford Racing Toe Knuckle Bearings
BMR 2 Point Brace CB007
BMR CB005 Crade Lockout Kit
BMR SCB766 IRS Alignment Pins

My car appears to have quite an obvious amount of front and rear negative camber. Perhaps -1.0 degree or a bit more in the front and what looks like at least -1.5 in the rear. I am debating Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates but they are quite pricey to get over here when I could just do camber bolts up front and settle for c.-1.8 to -2.0 degrees up front without screwing up the tyre wear too much. Thoughts?

I am considering the Steeda Magneride Dual Rate Springs but I'm a little concerned about ride quality on the street given the car is an excellent cruiser in normal mode and pretty stiff in track mode, at least on public A and B roads which we all know have terrible surface quality.

Stock 2019 GT Magneride Spring Rate: 150 Front & 650 Rear

Steeda Magneride Dual Rate Spring Rate: 220/350 Front & 800/1200 Rear

Finally, I am also trying to find an oil catch can to match. I have read about the UPR and it's pricey. Any other recommendations?

 

[bnightstar]

I would agree that a catch can is a must. My Mazda RX-7 has twin turbos that cause a crazy amount of pressure in the sump and as a result cause blow-by up the oil filler neck on right hand turns so a catch can is a must if I want to avoid an oil soaked air box and intercooler from hard driving and the g-forces you can achieve on track day tyres.

Anyway, I picked up the Mustang on Thursday and have driven it about 200 miles so far on the road and have decided I will start with the following modifications:

Ford Performance Torsen T2-R Differential -- I would prefer a Torsen like what it in my Mazda as opposed to the Traction-Lok differential that comes standard on this car.
Ford Performance 4.09 Ring and Pinion -- The torque and power of the engine is pretty good but the gearing is tremendously long. I think a 4.09 will suit this car much better for road and track driving.
Ford Racing GT350 RHD Strut Brace and K Brace
Ford Racing Toe Knuckle Bearings
BMR 2 Point Brace CB007
BMR CB005 Crade Lockout Kit
BMR SCB766 IRS Alignment Pins

My car appears to have quite an obvious amount of front and rear negative camber. Perhaps -1.0 degree or a bit more in the front and what looks like at least -1.5 in the rear. I am debating Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates but they are quite pricey to get over here when I could just do camber bolts up front and settle for c.-1.8 to -2.0 degrees up front without screwing up the tyre wear too much. Thoughts?

I am considering the Steeda Magneride Dual Rate Springs but I'm a little concerned about ride quality on the street given the car is an excellent cruiser in normal mode and pretty stiff in track mode, at least on public A and B roads which we all know have terrible surface quality.

Stock 2019 GT Magneride Spring Rate: 150 Front & 650 Rear

Steeda Magneride Dual Rate Spring Rate: 220/350 Front & 800/1200 Rear

Finally, I am also trying to find an oil catch can to match. I have read about the UPR and it's pricey. Any other recommendations?

there is nemesisuk.com and also steeda.eu.com which has steeda camber plates so you can get this instead.

Otherwise the list looks good.

 

[DeltaMobile]

I have a PP2 and track about 12 days a year. No need for any upgrades. A second set of wheels and tires are needed. The only thing I put on was some jacking rails to make the tire switch faster.

 

[cib24]

I have a PP2 and track about 12 days a year. No need for any upgrades. A second set of wheels and tires are needed. The only thing I put on was some jacking rails to make the tire switch faster.

Fair enough. The UK cars are PP1 spec minus the Torsen diff (we only get the trac-loc 3.55) and strut brace/k-brace combo. The other items on my list are definitely a nice to have but I intend to hit up the drag strip a couple of times per year as well for fun. For the time being I am holding out on Camber Plates and stiffer springs to see how the car does.

I will also forego a diff cooler and simply try to wrap the exhaust and change the fluid to something else.

Tyres and wheels are on the list next year after a couple of outings on the PS4S tyres.

Sponsored