Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (15-19 All)

[BmacIL]

Maybe I am confused, but there seem to be as many as 3 variations availible for the arm and associated joints on Steeda's website. The part referenced in the announcement that starts this thread appears to use the standard bearings. But you would not want to install these and then decide a month later that you should have upgraded the bearings too.

Maybe TJ can clarify?

Lateral arms:

Base (non-pp) cars have a bushing on the inner point, GT PP and GT350 have bearings on the inner point
GT350 have taller and different ball joint seat angle at the outer point
Steeda extended ball joint lateral arms have the same as GT PP inner point, and offer similar geometry to the GT350/correction from lowering - these you want

Tension arms:

All S550s have bushings at the inner point stock
Steeda and others offer bearings for that inner point, as well as versions of these arms w/ bearings installed - these you want, while Steeda also offers a version with a stiffer bushing than OEM

Supposedly this kit has both based on the description:
https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...nsion-Links-w-Bearings-2015-2019_p_14093.html
Steeda would need to confirm. You'll also really want a bumpsteer kit to go with those lateral arms.

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[strengthrehab]

Lateral arms:

Base (non-pp) cars have a bushing on the inner point, GT PP and GT350 have bearings on the inner point
GT350 have taller and different ball joint seat angle at the outer point
Steeda extended ball joint lateral arms have the same as GT PP inner point, and offer similar geometry to the GT350/correction from lowering - these you want

Tension arms:

All S550s have bushings at the inner point stock
Steeda and others offer bearings for that inner point, as well as versions of these arms w/ bearings installed - these you want, while Steeda also offers a version with a stiffer bushing than OEM

Supposedly this kit has both based on the description:
https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...nsion-Links-w-Bearings-2015-2019_p_14093.html
Steeda would need to confirm. You'll also really want a bumpsteer kit to go with those lateral arms.

Exactly the kit I just bought. Now I have to figure how to separate the ball joints from the spindle

 

[aleccolin]

Exactly the kit I just bought. Now I have to figure how to separate the ball joints from the spindle

Couple strong raps with a steel drilling hammer or similar on the spindle where the ball joint goes through will usually do it, the shock breaks the bond and it pops right out. Works 9/10 times. Not on aluminum spindles though.

 

[strengthrehab]

Couple strong raps with a steel drilling hammer or similar on the spindle where the ball joint goes through will usually do it, the shock breaks the bond and it pops right out. Works 9/10 times. Not on aluminum spindles though.

How I've always done it, but I've heard stories of that not working. I'll find out soon enough.

 

[BmacIL]

Couple strong raps with a steel drilling hammer or similar on the spindle where the ball joint goes through will usually do it, the shock breaks the bond and it pops right out. Works 9/10 times. Not on aluminum spindles though.

I tried that, pickle forks, ball joint separator tools. No luck. It took a combo of impact hammer and big sledge to get the tension link out. The lateral link is a little easier as you can support the knuckle with a jack or jackstands and then give it a good whack on the end of the stud (which faces up).

Well worth the effort to do these, though.

 

[aleccolin]

Guess I got lucky, my car also only had around 6k miles on it when I put those on.

 

[Tuxedomouse]

Brief review after installation and a day:

1) the front end stays much flatter and has a lot more grip. There's much, much better steering feel. The best way I can describe it is that the front end feels a lot lighter. Rear grip isn't sacrificed and it just feels more planted all around.

2) breaking the jamb nuts for the steering tie rods is a big PITA. I did not get the bumpsteer kit because I was not sure it'd be needed with my drop (under 0.7"). I ended up with about 3 deg of toe out per side immediately after installing and had to adjust to make it OK to drive. I do have bumpsteer now, so I would strongly recommend getting both no matter your setup.

Update: almost all the bumpsteer was from the alignment. It still has a tiny bit, and I will be adding that kit to get it perfect, but it's not really a big deal.

Glad you mentioned the toe post-install. I had to double check everything to make sure I installed the right parts!

The alignment shop is only about 2 miles from my house on 35 mph roads, so I'm sure I can get it there ok with this wicked toe. Lol

 

[BmacIL]

Glad you mentioned the toe post-install. I had to double check everything to make sure I installed the right parts!

The alignment shop is only about 2 miles from my house on 35 mph roads, so I'm sure I can get it there ok with this wicked toe. Lol

I'd strongly recommend getting it at least eyeballed near zero. Otherwise, you'll literally be scrubbing & squealing tires just going normal speeds.

 

[Tuxedomouse]

I'd strongly recommend getting it at least eyeballed near zero. Otherwise, you'll literally be scrubbing & squealing tires just going normal speeds.

Yeah, I'm going back to the barn tomorrow and adjusting it so it's at least safe to drive. Very excited to see how these taller ball joints improve what is already a vastly more satisfying suspension than stock.

 

[Tuxedomouse]

Did a quick and dirty toe adjustment on Sunday morning in my barn, WOW these arms did make a difference. Turn in is lighter now and more lively, with less understeer feeling. Can;t wait for my real alignment on Wednesday

 

[Norm Peterson]

Did a quick and dirty toe adjustment on Sunday morning in my barn, WOW these arms did make a difference. Turn in is lighter now and more lively, with less understeer feeling. Can;t wait for my real alignment on Wednesday

Once you get comfortable with decent angle measurement methods, the alignment you do can be the real alignment.

Make sure that you get a printout of the settings, both 'before' and 'after'. And pay attention to any changes in 'feel' following the professional alignment.


Norm

 

[Tuxedomouse]

Once you get comfortable with decent angle measurement methods, the alignment you do can be the real alignment.

Make sure that you get a printout of the settings, both 'before' and 'after'. And pay attention to any changes in 'feel' following the professional alignment.

Norm

Got an alignment done today, unfortunately there was no "before" measurements, but I have the measurements from "after" at my dealership alignment I has done in the beginning of November

Before
Front - Camber L -1.4 R -1.2
Caster L 7.5 R 7.8
Toe L 0.0 R 0.0
Rear - Camber L -2.0 R -1.9
Toe L 0.10 R 0.10
Thrust Angle - 0.0

After
Front - Camber L -1.8 R -2.0
Caster L 7.3 R 7.1
Toe L +0.09 R +0.09
Rear - Camber L -1.5 R -1.3
Toe L -0.09 R -0.10
Thrust Angle -0.01

The new shop told me to come back after 150 and tell me if I wanted anything revised, and as well I can do free re-alignments for a year.

I may see if they can reduce the toe out in the front when I go back, it is a little 'wandery' when driving straight at low speeds (haven't had it on the highway yet)

Driving around, the car 'feels' 500 lbs lighter. I didn't get much seat time, and it's very cold out here (31F) as well I'm on my all-season 255's for the winter, but corning grip is improved, and the throttle is a good regulator of oversteer mid-corner. Ha.

 

[aleccolin]

You really want zero toe on the front, that toe out is going to make it darty as hell at higher speeds. Should be no reason they can't get the camber even on the rear, there's adjusters for that. If you don't have camber plates in the front might consider camber bolts to dial that in. Front caster seems high also, but if you're lowered that may be why.

 

[Tuxedomouse]

You really want zero toe on the front, that toe out is going to make it darty as hell at higher speeds. Should be no reason they can't get the camber even on the rear, there's adjusters for that. If you don't have camber plates in the front might consider camber bolts to dial that in. Front caster seems high also, but if you're lowered that may be why.

I do have the Steeda camber plates in the front. I'll definitely get the front toe fixed when I go back.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Theres a good reason they can’t get even camber in the rear, its cause its fidgety as hell without aftermarket camber arms and fixing the rear toe shifts the camber, and fixing the camber changes the toe. Its a pain in the butt. Personally I’d leave it since the toe is good and camber is close to even.

Front camber is high but sporty high. If you carve corners I’d leave that too but definitely fix the toe. If you just daily the car then a bit less front camber will increase the chance the tires will last a little longer. But definitely fix the front toe. Go for 0.0.

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